UKBouldering.com

Chipping holds (Read 1402 times)

cha1n

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1096
  • Karma: +32/-4
Chipping holds
January 02, 2015, 11:35:03 pm
Carrying on from another thread, what's going through the minds of these climbers who chip holds?

I mean, they can't be that deluded enough to think that they've climbed the original problem if they've improved holds, so deep down they know that climbing the problem once chipped is pointless?

I'm not saying I'd do it myself (nor am I saying I wouldn't) but I can see some logic in someone who's discovered a new boulder having a fiddle around with holds that may be vulnerable to breakage in the near future, perhaps even a bit of 'comfortising' if it's the difference between a potentially great problem or one that may cut your hand off and nobody will want to climb but I just cannot understand why someone would improve holds on an established problem, it just doesn't make sense?

If the whole Redhead/Dawes story is true that Redhead purposely broke the hold off of Indian Face, I can understand the purpose in that situation, even if I don't approve.

Anyone got some insight into the mind of the chipper?

Hot Muffin

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 11
  • Karma: +0/-0
#1 Re: Chipping holds
January 03, 2015, 12:16:03 am
i frequently chip holds, because the thug life chose me

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
#2 Re: Chipping holds
January 03, 2015, 02:02:21 pm
Have you never brushed away at a hold (I can think of a couple of sharp pockets that spring to mind) and thought - if only that was a little bit bigger then I could comfortably squeeze my fingers in...? Wanted that teeny extra bit of slopeyness on a smear? Wished that pebble had just a little more room on top to get a finger around...?

I resist.

I guess some people don't...

cha1n

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1096
  • Karma: +32/-4
#3 Re: Chipping holds
January 03, 2015, 02:06:41 pm
Must admit that altering the holds has never crossed my mind. I always blame my weak self for failing.

Perhaps most of the chipping that goes on is a personal thing against the FA?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal