[haydn jones]

Anyone for any beta for this with our the heel toe I.e the drop knee method. The closest I got was foot out right left next to hand in slot drop left knee come in to undercut but once there I wasn't able to move

[JohnM]

I think I wore a boot with good rubber coverage on the toe box (solutions) and had my left toe on and a right toe scum underneath (not a toe hook but a smear so my feet were basically clamping) to match instead of putting the heel toe out right.  Sorry for the vagueness of the beta it was a long time ago so it might not make any sense at all! 

[tim palmer]

I think this was my sequence
do first move (right hand to crimp) then match right foot in pocket with left hand and left toe scum/hook in roof.
come into undercut with left hand and then you can just bob into the good slot with your right hand

[Andy Harris]

Myself and Andy Bowie climbed this quite some years ago in what was probably the 1st ascent. It may have been climbed pre-92 but nobody thought it had.

We did 2 versions both without a heel hook.
1. With LH in start slot and RH on small crimp put LF in pocket by hand (left knee pointing left), snatch undercut with LH then LH again to the small incut crozzly crimp. RF on top of the chimes jug and big pull straight through to the top jug.
2. Basically miss out the undercut and snatch direct to the crimp. Significantly harder than the above.

Both very fingery and snatchy, and would now be good eliminates for those who can be bothered

[haydn jones]

I've already found the thread of you mentioning them and tried tjem last night pulling strait to the crimp felt bloody hard :p

[John Cooke]

Beta I used was the same as Tim's. You done this yet H?


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[haydn jones]

Nah tried it Monday but forgot what foot you his said to put in slot. Tried about 15 times with right in slot and clamping with left before giving up. Will go back and try with left next time :p

[haydn jones]

Oh I just read tims post saying that is how he did it
 Bloody strong. Felt closer to keen roof that doing this