[nik at work]

Nu skool 400 only, and only just managed that. Not feeling great today, run down sore and keeping andrex in business...

Early night methinks...

[Duma]

Off to the wall in a min before my night shift tonight.

Went suprisingly well, had a good bash at the blokfest problems from the weekend, felt pretty strong. only an hr though.

[nik at work]

The 400

BM session

[Duma]

Wall again for 90min, felt ok, worked out sequence for, and repeatedly fell off last move of, hardest bolkfest final prob. so good, but frustrating.

[Fiend]

19 - 2 hours crimpy slab bouldering and getting scared.
20 - ...
21 - 2 hours mixture of easy auto-belays and medium bouldering at GCC.

Missed one day and felt rubbish because of it 

[Duma]

Wall again - only had 40min before night shift, but managed to finish that problem from yesterday so pleased.

[nik at work]

The 400

12 hour day at work

Beasted...

[Duma]

Any more thoughts on the nu skool 400 nik?

[duncan]

#Whatsyour400?

Single-leg squat x 25 each leg
Bicycles x 25 each leg
Single-leg bridge x 25 each leg
Side-planks x 25 seconds each arm

Repeat four times. Actually that's 800 but the whole lot with short breaks takes 30 minutes. I’ve aimed for a mix of hip-back extensor and flexor work with more of the former since I'm not aiming to monkey around on roofs much and mainly climb with my feet on. All exercises are asymmetric (single leg or arm) since most climbing movements are asymmetric.

I'm an elderly trad. climber with an arthritic hip and dodgy shoulder, so these exercises are relatively easy with a high number of repetitions. Most people here should be doing harder stuff as long they can maintain good form.

[Fiend]

25 one leg squats in one set??

[Duma]

Wall with daughter after school. pretty easy, but new hard circuit was half set so couldn't resist having a play on those..

[tomtom]

I went climbing (wall) for the first time in ten weeks today. Gentle traversing and the odd easy up and downs. My back survived - and feels ok tonight...

New record low 11stn 1lb this morning.. Having teeth out is good for weight loss :-/

[rich d]

Been proper full of cold since last week, so managed to do 5miles a day walking, piss poor I know. Starting to feel a bit better so will do some proper stuff this weekend.

[nik at work]

Any more thoughts on the nu skool 400 nik?

Yes, but I'm posting from my phone and can't face trying to write an essay on it. I'll probably have time and the computer tomorrow evening. Baited breath...

Anyway today:
The 400
30 min swim
Short BM session

[fried]

25 one leg squats in one set??

I had a go at Duncan's 400 yesterday, nice easy old-skool, except the one-legged squats. I don't know if my knees are wrecked, or I just need to practice, but I can't even get into a (semi) squat position (jus,t with the aid of a door frame), let alone stand up!

[duncan]

25 one leg squats in one set??

I had a go at Duncan's 400 yesterday, nice easy old-skool, ...

Me... or the exercises? 

I have to stop the squat at about 100-110 degrees knee bend, so not quite a full bum-to-the-floor, since any further is now limited by my hip.

Several factors mean I'm relatively good at the single-leg squats. I've had big legs since I was a child - I looked like a power-lifter as a 2 year old. I have a missing posterior cruciate ligament in one knee from 6 years ago, I've done squats since which keeps my knee pain-free. I did additional leg training last year for the Yosemite trip.

I would think boulderers should be able to do 2-3 single leg squats with each leg having a bit in reserve (makes rockovers harder if you can't) but more than that is probably a bit unnecessary. I do more as I still have ambitions to do long routes and not exercising my legs doesn't seem to make them weigh any less.

[tomtom]

25 one leg squats in one set??

I had a go at Duncan's 400 yesterday, nice easy old-skool, except the one-legged squats. I don't know if my knees are wrecked, or I just need to practice, but I can't even get into a (semi) squat position (jus,t with the aid of a door frame), let alone stand up!

I can do none. Thin legs, long levers etc... Pisses me off on slabby/face rockover problems - so I should work on it, but tbh I find it really dull!

[Fiend]

Can we assume that is 25 single leg squats in one set then?

I can do 5 normal ones although I tend to fall over on my right leg as my ankle is dodgy from broken heel 20 years ago (falling off Charlie's Overhang so-called E2 5c at the time, before pads - lucky not to land on my neck). That feels hard enough and my legs despite being fucked don't feel particularly weak. How much do you squat normally, Duncan?

[Duma]

40 min run in the frost this morning after finishing this set of nights. Got daughter this weekend so might struggle to get much in next couple of days, will give it a bash though

[fatdoc]

Enforced rest of elbow... Rapid improvement, got upper limb orthopaedic assessment.

Had a few days off everything except diet.

66.5 kg

Very happy...

[nik at work]

Today:
The 400
14 hour day at work, that'll do...

Thoughts on the Nu Skool 400:
The sit up/crunches things took a few days to get used to, learning how to do the movement so it was effective, good form and yet quick (limited time before work, I am not gettting up earlier...). Anyway now that I've got 'em down I likes 'em. The leg raise alternative I'm not getting on with at all. I can't get into a position that feels right, then getting the leg movement is all bleurghhh. And it is hurting my lower back...

So I've ditched them and gone old school on the leg raise front, but slowing it down a bit and focussing on not letting my lower back flatten, which is going pretty well. None of this is a criticism of Nibs and Duncans advice, but for whatever reason the suggested leg raise alternative just didn't work for me

[Fiend]

22 - 4 hours assorted easy bouldering, scrambling, advanced skin-loss.
23 - 1.5 hours mixed weights and rowing at GYM. Did 70 pullups....in 6 sets....over about 15 minutes.
24 - 20 mins variable run (equivalent to 30 mins for normal people!)

[shark]

7 days to go...

[nik at work]

The 400

And work, on a Saturday, outrageous.  Should'a been outside it looked mint grrrr...

[nik at work]

The 400

Tried to climb outside but conditions turned it into a brisk dog walk.