UKBouldering.com

Yorkshire Open Projects (Read 39021 times)

YorkshireTea

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 43
  • Karma: +13/-0
#50 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
February 26, 2021, 07:27:51 pm
Good timing to see this thread, tried this wall at Bridestones recently and couldn't touch it. Maybe been done before(?) it's just next to Obscene Cleft. Diagonal striations make for some really cool but very slopey holds, out right is a very good heel toe but sadly the rock where it undercuts at the bottom is poor. Couldn't get past pulling on




Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
#51 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
March 26, 2024, 11:12:37 am
Just to the right of the eastern arete of Barrel Buttress at Attermire is a nice vertical flake-line. It's obviously been looked at before because the starting footholds have been brushed. It may even have been climbed but not recorded. It's probably mid-upper 6s. The landing isn't too bad but make sure you pad it properly and don't punt the finishing moves! A belay can be arranged at the top with an assortment of cams, wires and offsets.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
#52 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
April 18, 2024, 02:23:25 pm
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +96/-2
#53 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
April 18, 2024, 04:50:06 pm
low right start to the prow at caley crag.

really nice holds. good starting hold. seems to lack one hold to get into the start of the normal prow. i would predict 8B minimum

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#54 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
April 18, 2024, 04:53:26 pm
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1713
  • Karma: +156/-4
#55 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
April 18, 2024, 04:55:54 pm
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?

agreed, looks good from afar and nasty up close.

More importantly, has anyone had a properly look at the Cypher sitter? From memory it looks almost too easy to be true.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
#56 Re: Yorkshire Open Projects
April 19, 2024, 09:23:38 am
Really? I didn't think it looked that bad. The holds are small, but that's what you get on a hard boulder.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal