the shizzle > bouldering
Yorkshire Open Projects
Will Hunt:
Quite futuristic and possibly impossible. Step forward Will Atkinson, please!
The companion line to Phoenix Wall at Panorama Crag. Using the right hand side of the weird double crimp hold, step out right onto a crap smear and leap/rockover/levitate up to the top of the crag or a tiny slot in a seam.
Looks entirely feasible from the ground until you get on it and realise how difficult it is to trust the bad right hand foothold.
Next up is the Prune Boulder at Yeadon Crag. There are currently only two problems on this big chunk of rock (see http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25876.0.html ). There are at least three more lines still to go at. Going through the roof past very brittle feeling flakes will yield a right hand and a left hand exit. Round to the left, the north facing wall will go to someone sufficiently talented.
Will Hunt:
I really must apologise for the video (everything about it), but thought I'd show the 8th grade boulderers what's out there at Cow Close Crag.
andy popp:
Arse!
andyd:
That looks a great boulder. Nice of you to offer that little gem up. You could twist my arm to walk out there :-)
Will Hunt:
My climbing partner's car suffered a "catastrophic brake disk failure" in Keighley on the way to Malham. This was actually a really close run thing because I was dangerously close to doing some limestone trad. I went to St Ives instead.
It is possible to drive up to Druid's Altar on Altar Lane, from where the walk in to the Altar Circuit is about 20 seconds, and the walk to the Sunday Morning boulder about 5 minutes (guide available at www.unknownstones.com).
Cleaned and attempted a line on the Sunday Morning boulder. The footholds are slightly undercut, giving the feel of a slightly overhanging wall. Handholds are thin crimps. Nice and technical with quite precise body positioning.
The climbing I do in the video below is about 7B. The whole thing will probably be at least 7B+ if not (possibly considerably) harder depending on how the top moves are.
Given that it was raining this morning, the boulder dries quicker than you might expect for a north facing piece of rock with tree cover. Hopefully drying time will improve further now I've cleaned some lichen and removed some soil and vegetation from the top.
Have fun, wads!
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