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Aims for 2015 (Read 93104 times)

Falling Down

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#225 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 05:11:55 pm
- Play my guitar and sing out live.

Yep done three solo little gigs and stood in for my guitar tutor playing bass in his band.  The solo gigs were nerve wracking but the other one was like riding a bike after twenty odd years.

- Write some songs and press an EP or album.

Got some songs written, maybe next year I'll record them.

- Get barrelled lots on the Indo boat trip.

We didn't surf many barrelling waves but we had the best surf trip ever and after I got into the groove on day three it all came back and I got heaps of fantastic waves.  The surfing comes second place though to spending two weeks with close mates and people I've not seen for years in a mindblowing location on a fantastic boat.

- Do a good time in the Henley bridge to bridge eight mile swim.

Broke several ribs and suffered massive intercostal tearing falling off onto the flat from ten feet up whilst vert skating about two weeks beforehand.  I couldn't tie my shoelaces for three weeks afterwards and could barely move around so a big swim was out of the question.

- Become a Dad.

Proving tricky... In the middle of tests and stuff...


A really great year all round and I've just started climbing again coinciding with a few months off work. The longest break I've had in twenty three years was eighteen days so I'm really looking forward to a rest and doing some climbing/surfing/music/writing/holidays.

Doylo

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#226 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 08:00:16 pm
Bouldering - Enter the Dragon,Tremeirchion. tick
Sport- maybe my Dulas proj if it feels a bit easier and is dry.no tick but finally got a sequence on the crux and got on redpoint (stuck crux 3 times from the start). Was getting there when end of season dramatically hit. Very hard for me

Main goal is to buy a house with a garage so I can build my own board  :-* tick

SA Chris

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#227 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 08:15:10 pm

- Become a Dad.

Proving tricky... In the middle of tests and stuff...


Best of all possible luck on that.

Fultonius

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#228 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 09:09:11 pm
Sounds like a good year Ben.

I wish I'd put in some Aims for 2015 as I'm sure I'd have ticked them! 

Retrospectively:  I really wanted to climb the Jorasses before leaving Chamonix which didn't happen. Also before leaving I wanted to finish off Reve de Singe, an 8a sport route of high quality at Giétroz and put my trad crack nemesis to bed - the Fr7b crack to the left of Thai Boxing (I tragedy no-one named it, it's a good route).

Oh well....

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#229 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 09:43:30 pm
My big aim was to climb El Capitan by 2016/17, just reflecting on my year it's been really successful actually:

first E6s in the winter (headpoint)
Climbed El Capitan twice in 11 days
First 7a+/7b
First f7A
Finally got a job in Sheffield YYFY!!!

2016 7c maybe?

Stu Littlefair

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#230 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 10:05:57 pm

I have two goals for 2015.

Rain. Shadow.

Fuck. Yes.


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mrjonathanr

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#231 Re: Aims for 2015
December 15, 2015, 11:38:01 pm

- Become a Dad.

Proving tricky... In the middle of tests and stuff...


Best of all possible luck on that.

PM me if you want some perspective on that.

ghisino

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#232 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 10:27:34 am
I's been a busy year indeed...
No major tick, nothing on that list, yet i've never been so comfortable on (sport) 8a's, redpointing four/five of them and all rather quickly (in between two tries and two days).

weirdly enough i've been rather weak on boulders, only two 7c's of which one is a slab and the other a traverse.

went soooooo close to redpoint l'ami de tout le monde
, which as a result should be on top of my "aims for 2016" list?

It may be a busy year so i'll be relatively conservative in my aims.
As for 2014, i have several aims and don't think i'll have good occasions on each of them.

-8a boulder would be a dream. Open for ideas, i need projects
(in fontainebleau)! the only one i've been trying is Neverland, and i don't want to try something where i can easily get injuried (no bad falls, no crazy crimping). The only proper 7c+ i've done is Hypothèse (=foot-on campusing with tiny, shitty feet)

-sport: i'd like to do one route out of the following list:
Couleur du vent, l'ami de tout le monde/ Choucas, Elixir de violence/ Le Bidule, Octocratie (Saussois)/ Witchcraft (FJ)/  Hilti Blues, Dis Moi... (St Léger) / Le Traité... (Grotte du Brotsch) / A couple 8's whose name i can't remember (Berdorf)

-trad (crack climbs): same as for sport.
Mustang, The Doors (Cadarese) / Pure Finger, 7b roof (name?) (Annot) / something in Orco, but what?

-MP: no real aims other than having a good time. Oh maybe one: redpointing Alix Punk de Vergons (Verdon)

Eddies

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#233 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 11:37:48 am
Climbing wise this year I tried to concentrate on sport climbing instead of purely bouldering over summer.

I trained specifically over the first period of the year to improve my fitness and power endurance (lots of 10mins on/10mins off circuits, 4x4’s and feet on campusing) I succeeded in climbing my goal route left from last year in a couple of sessions, ‘Wild In Me’ 7C/7C+ at the Tor, a couple of days before my 35th birthday.

I spent the majority of my summer in Blackwell Dale where I enjoyed climbing ‘Beginners Wall’ 7B+ and ‘Let’s Get Fossilised’ 7C+, both on my second session. I also ventured over the road to climb a few really nice boulders around the 7A+/7B range. ‘Blackout’ and ‘Ovine’ being the highlights of that area for me. (‘Black, Sack & Crack’ 7B+ felt nails for the grade; I must have missed a trick on that one!)

Another highlight of my summer was the process in working a lovely hidden boulder problem in Castleton called ‘Sheep Shifter’ 7B/7B+. I really enjoyed my time in Cave Dale working this one after work on my own during the warm evenings of June.

Once the evenings closed in and after work sessions stopped I moved back indoors to train for this coming winter’s grit season!
I decided that in order to progress quicker and avoid doing similar training to previous years that I would take on some pro advice and so approached Dave Mason for some coaching. His training programmes have had me all consumed since September and despite picking up a knee injury I continue to train every day and am confident that once my knee heals I will be stronger than ever and fully primed to push my grades in 2016.

Falling Down

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#234 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 11:45:43 am

- Become a Dad.

Proving tricky... In the middle of tests and stuff...


Best of all possible luck on that.

PM me if you want some perspective on that.

Thanks gents appreciate the offer.. In the middle of things right now so once I know the situation I may take you up in the offer. 

Fiend

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#235 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 12:00:39 pm

- Become a Dad.

Proving tricky... In the middle of tests and stuff...


Best of all possible luck on that.

PM me if you want some perspective on that.

Thanks gents appreciate the offer.. In the middle of things right now so once I know the situation I may take you up in the offer.
:o :shag:

Grubes

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#236 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 12:10:43 pm
I will be stronger than ever and fully primed to push my grades in 2016.
Sounds awesome eddie.
Hope the knee is sorted soon.

moose

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#237 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 01:03:50 pm

I was keeping it pretty simple with my 2015 Aims:
1. Try not to let pressures of work entirely destroy my mojo. Tick...ish a near-run thing, I didn't quit work or quit climbing but did feel pretty low for periods
2. Try not to let winter cold and damp (and likely too much indoor bouldering) entirely destroy my mojo.  as above really, some lapses, but a heartening end-of-season recovery
3. Come nice weather in Spring, bring residual mojo to Yorkshire limestone, try to pick-up where I left off, then keep on trucking. for most of the season, this was a total loss, but I finished on a couple of highs which made up for it

All in all, a qualified success.  The combined pressure of work and spending weekends getting shut-down by crap weather or RP failure ("and this is what you do for fun?!") did get a bit wearing but at the years end I am still pretty motivated, just physically a bit broken. 

Not as many Yorkshire lime projects ticked as last year (because I had likely done all the easy ones the year before) but I was happy with what little I did, namely China Crisis, Soft Option, Zoolook - as they all had an old-skool knarliness I found appealing and had aspects that didn't suit me. 

I started finger-boarding (more for relief from the stress of the working week than out of any real climbing ambition) and, to my surprise, after years of being of the "just go climbing more" ilk, I found it really satisfying (training notebooks, weight-vests.... the lot!).  Finished on a good holiday at St Leger.  Winter will likely revolve around going to the Depot (and keeping up the finger-boarding) but I am reasonably hopeful of being ready and eager for new projects come Spring (GBH at Malham, maybe one of the long extension routes like Stolen at Kilnsey, though part of me is tempted by Grooved Arete, despite initial attempts suggesting it would need a multi-year siege).

Eddies

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#238 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 01:17:10 pm
I will be stronger than ever and fully primed to push my grades in 2016.
Sounds awesome eddie.
Hope the knee is sorted soon.

Cheers Luke, I've an appointment with the specialist next week.

Will Hunt

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#239 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 02:06:27 pm
I was about to say the year's not out yet; then I looked at the weather forecast  :'(

SA Chris

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#240 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 02:18:38 pm
Even though I didn't actually set any specific aims for the year I've managed a few things I wanted to;

Finally got the better of the tennis elbow that plagued me for the second half of last year and beginning of this, which I though might be the end of my climbing career

Probably had the longest spell without a major injury (touch wood) and bouldering fairly well (for me). This has been partially due to reading some articles and listening to advice on here (thanks all!) but also concentrating on exercise outside of climbing; antagonistics, stretching, theraband and core exercises, all of which have helped with previous injury spots (fingers, elbows, shoulders) and making a concerted effort to have productive sessions down the wall.

Managed to grab a mountain route  that I've wanted to do for a long time from the jaws of a mediocre summer.

Done some good and inspiring sport climbing

Actually managed to use the fitness and free time slightly older children allow to develop some of the new bouldering I've discovered (topo and vid to follow)

Had a great snow holiday in the Alps which opened my eyes to what you can get done in less than a week, and given the lack of fresh snow rekindled my love of fast piste skiing (trying a modern pair of skis helped!)

Downsides; not as much ski touring and surfing locally as I would like. And could have probably got out on MTB a bit more, but a lot of the trails close to home have been a quagmire. And I've put in more hours at work with no return for it than I have any other year.

 

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#241 Re: Aims for 2015
December 16, 2015, 10:04:33 pm
2015 I luv u

This year I want to keep the sport climbing ball rolling, after making good ground last year.

Sport - project 7c+/8a and climb more at 7c. 8a YYFY

Boulder - nothing specific, see what happens... and something harder than 7a in Fontainebleau! 7C in Wales YYFY Didn't go to Fontainebleau

Training - 1, 4, 7. YYFY

Trips - Fontainebleau and Ceuse. Nope

General - start playing music again, take better photos, graduate and get a job (not essential), start drinking coffee, sell my motorbike, buy a car, become a real man, understand women?!?!?catch a fish and eat it, win a fight, 2 pointless answers in one show, zero drop knees.
Gonna be a big year  :punk:


Will Hunt

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#242 Re: Aims for 2015
December 17, 2015, 02:32:47 pm
2 pointless answers in one show

I smashed this for you. I once got three pointless answers in the final round. The categories included "tracks from Jeff Wayne's War of the Worlds". From there, it was easy.

SA Chris

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#243 Re: Aims for 2015
December 17, 2015, 03:01:13 pm
Especially when one of your mates gets namechecked.

nik at work

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#244 Re: Aims for 2015
December 17, 2015, 06:47:11 pm
Well this is humiliating...

2015:
1) 8c (Mini Sukarra at Margalef, or Make It Funky(?) any thoughts Stu??)No, tried a wet MIF for half an hour and it felt hard, then made massive tactical error in Margalef trying Mini Sukarra when it was wet(!!) and trashed my fingers, idiot. Felt a lot easier than last year frustratingly...
2) All the eights (ideally 8a on-sight, E8 fa or flash, >8A font) at 40 years of age (Feb onwards...)Nope, nope and nope
3) An 8b fa8a+, meh
4) Either of the cave projectsNope
5) A trad fa harder than E8Super frustratingly nope, had one project ready to go at E9 but it got seepy, other project is hard...
6) Get on a 9anope

3 out of 6 would be a result
Ha-ha-ha, at least I don't have to think of any new aims for next year...

rodma

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#245 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 10:43:49 am
Crikey, two years since i made a list

Quote from: Rodma

Accept that since I am getting on a bit, that my grip will never be the same as it used to be and try to remember this if/when i get some form back that I inevitably have to stop due to discomfort of some sort. grip is now good, not strong, but not sore

get strong again, last year was bad, this will involve staying away from local comps because they are way too bad on my hands (I only have one comp setting, which is pull too hard) reasonably pleased, no finger tape, no ibuprofen, only caffeine as a cructch

Deadlift 150Kg Hahahahaha

pick and succeed on a project at either a resonable grade, or that is completely beyond my current skillset. um, yesh, a couple of taller probs in font and did a couple of 8s

From last year's list (2013), get euro-lean managed for a bit and did the above

stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes. Check

I think i may need to make the 2016 list a bit more ambitious, you're not actually meant to tick things off these lists, what's the point in that. I basically made a Dave Cameron list, which is not cool  :thumbsdown:

Edit: forgot one of the items


SA Chris

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#246 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 11:38:52 am
Pity you didn't make it up to Aberdeen for comp last Sat, was good vibe and good probs.

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#247 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 12:08:02 pm
Going to set the bar too high probably:

Do 25 things 8A or harder HA no
Make the most of having a car would say i got out as much as possible, whether or not it was as productive as possible...
Get around the UK more and get better at climbing not on trips bit more ambiguous but i would say yes
One arm the small beastmaker crimp  (doubtful ) not a hope in hell

retrospectively these are whack goals


rodma

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#248 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 12:13:13 pm
Pity you didn't make it up to Aberdeen for comp last Sat, was good vibe and good probs.

i barely made it out of bed

glad it went well. hopefully next year if they run the series again I'll be able to take part.

rodma

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#249 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 12:15:53 pm
Going to set the bar too high probably:

One arm the small beastmaker crimp  (doubtful ) not a hope in hell

retrospectively these are whack goals

just post a video of you jumping off the ground and everyone (granted not on here) will congratulate you  ;D

 

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