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Aims for 2015 (Read 92835 times)

JackAus

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#175 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 09:55:38 am
Half way huh...

1. V8. On my way. Very close on a few different 8s. Just a matter of time really.
2. DWS project. Got very close before it got too cold. Back to waiting for it to warm up abit.
3. Drop weight/get fitter. Lost 14kg so far. Kinda stopped trying to lose it atm and just been climbing so much. Still more to go. Would like to get down to 70, currently at 76.
4. Spend some decent time in the Grampians. Red atm because its only the start of winter now... Trying to plan a couple week trip for later in the season but time money and weather permitting.

Doesn't look like much progress overall but the weight loss has made me tear through a bunch of V7s recently and help get me close on the V8s... Climbing so much better lately.

See how the 2nd half of the year pans out.

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#176 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 10:04:22 am
Half time result: basically fuck all.   >:(

1. Winter grit. - fail, weather dire.
2. Berdorf. - fail, bad organisation
3. Pfalz. - fail, bad organisation
4. Move South. - fail
5. Wales / South West trips. - fail, bad motivation, bad organisation
6. Keep training. - partial success, done some training but too many lazy days too

There's an implicit "really enjoy climbing, and climb well" in those goals (i.e. the purpose of them) and in general, which is a full fail too. Winter bouldering in the County and Lakes was good, the only climbing success so far, but the trad season since then has been mediocre at best, dire at worst. Mostly down to my own issues and psychology, as well as location.

36chambers

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#177 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 11:10:25 am
Half way already?

1. Make 7C the new 7B - about half a dozen to go
2. Stu's roof at Almscliff - TICK!

Amendments,

3. Do a wank, esoteric, Yorkshire grit, first ascent 
4. Go sport climbing, climb a new grade
5. Fix body

abarro81

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#178 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 11:21:50 am
In rough order of importance..
1. Era vella FUCK YEAH HONKY! Sorry.
2. Finally have fully healed collateral and be able to climb UK sport again - progress, hajj, bat route Bat route and cry freedom done, good links on Progress, finger holding up so far as long as I;m careful with the volume of crimpy stuff, hopefully will continue..
3.Onsight more 8bs 1 down, more would be nice but not sure I'll get more trips to onsight friendly crags due to goal 6.
4.Flash 8b+
5. Louis lankstrong or keen douche Not really been psyched on bouldering since Spain. Need to get Progress done then get on it to train for big post-phd trip
6. Finish PhD hmm...

Pako

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#179 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 01:57:22 pm
Quote from: Pako link=topic=25121.msg48817 :ras:1#msg488171 date=1432171129
One arm the incut edge on BM 2000.
Proper v10 on the board or outside.
Boulder open A finals for my state
Not wreck myself
- One arm hung the 1 pad rung on the bm on the sides for 5 seconds or so, hopefully the incut edge should fall in a couple months. One arms are going well on right arm, but on the left arm can occasionally summon one with neutral grip, but not front on yet. This has been on a back burner lately due to elbows and desire to get better at climbing.
- I keep making board problems harder just as I am about to send them, and don't climb outdoors and hardly ever at a gym so no idea how I am doing at this. I definitely feel strong atm, and have been trying halfheartedly to make my power endurance better. I would hazard to guess that I could get a proper v8 done in a session or 2 if it weren't too long? Still have 6 months left so should be good.
- I'm bloody shit at comps, no idea how this will turn out. Would rather climb a v10 than do this tbh.

chris j

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#180 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 02:47:55 pm
With chris j junior due to arrive on the scene next weekend I'm not sure how much climbing will be done next year. I suspect I'll be lucky to equal this spring's high points, never mind exceed them. But being an optimistic spirit here goes (in order of importance):

1. Be a good dad.

2. Don't get injured. This year was good in this regard. Becoming increasingly important as niggles and tweaks seem to take exponentially longer to heal with increasing age.

3. Throw the grade pyramid out of the window and redpoint Just Revenge/Avenged at Ansteys (7c+).

4. Maintain bouldering around the 7A level, hopefully improve.

5. After this year's debacle of 2 days trad climbing, do some trad.

I don't know how compatible goal #1 is with 3, 4 & 5, I think I'm going to be relying heavily on my secret weapon of the new garage board, which means goal #2 may come under pressure...

I think #1's going ok, little K seems pleased to see me most mornings which is probably a good sign. #2 was thrown completely out of the window by not staying warm between working sessions on Avenged on a cold day  in late April and promptly tweaking three fingers on my left hand the next go. I blame spending too much time on the garage board the previous 3 months...

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#181 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 07:35:49 pm

fried

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#182 Re: Aims for 2015
June 20, 2015, 08:12:50 pm
That went quick.

1. Don't get injured.
2. Old-skool circuiting and easy high circuits I've never done:-

Yellow - Justice de Chambergeot * Couldn't find it, one for cool weather
Yellow/orange - Pignon poteau * nope
Orange - Grande montagne * Beginning done, retired injured, I may go back.
Orange - Gros sablons * nope

Yellow/orange - Envers d'apremont * Imminent visit

Yellow/green/orange - Apremont * some point in the summer

Orange - Dame Jouanne * ?

2. Get the biggest, spongiest mat for my birthday * done
3. A few camping trips in the forest. Very hopefully a visit to the U.K. * Peak trip done, no camping yet

Nice start to the year, haven't pushed my grade, but have filled in a lot of my grade pyramid. Made the best of the spring weather. Circuiting will start again soon, as it's getting a bit hot and greasy to hit any of my harder target stuff for the year. Hopefully keep improving and tick off some stuff at the end of the year.

Footwork

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#183 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 06:51:17 pm
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistently
2. Blog more frequently
3. Put together a climbing film or at least a few short clips
4. Go trad climbing more (I forget it's what gives me the most pleasure)
5. Get a training contract

Half way review:

1. TICK! Went to Font with Will over April and his poor cheshire hands couldn't keep up (though he was looking better at the start  ;)) Favourite moment was watching an Italian boys face drop when I topped out from Carnage and he'd been trying it for ages.
2. Nope Two blogs this year so far :no: Work life has taken over massively over the past 7 months but it has all paid off at least. On the plus side I have loads to write about when I get a bit of time spare. I joined instagram to keep some kind of media posting going...
3. Hmmm I have written a couple of scripts and have ideas of grandeur. More time needed etc, will see how this goes but fingers crossed for the project.
4. Nope Haven't tied on yet. Maybe after the summer again but for now am very much enjoying my bouldering.
5 TICK! Very pleased and relieved to bag one. The best part is that I get to be a student again from September to do my LPC. Will start as a trainee Sept 2016. Better get to Yosemite before then :whistle:
« Last Edit: June 23, 2015, 07:15:55 pm by Footwork »

tomtom

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#184 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 07:01:28 pm
To be there when Lagers does his 7C.

and tell him he dabbed ;)

#Fail #Again

Sasquatch

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#185 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 07:06:25 pm
Climbing - shifting back to chuffing this year after a 10 year hiatus.

1. To Bolt or Not to Be - 5.14a - Not going to be this year due to life goal  :(

2. Climb remaining local 5.13a or harder routes. 7 of 10 currently done. - No more tried, and low motivation for those routes

3. Climb 2 out of 5 of my existing sport projects , and 1 of my 2 existing trad projects. - 1 Done, good progress on two more, hopefully in the fall when connies come back  

4. Bolt and climb four new 8th grade routes in AK.  Currently there are only 4.  - None yet, but have identified two walls to recon, maybe if life slows down just a bit
 
Life:

Full on into business start up.  Goal is revenue of 150K for 2015. BIG GOAL...-currently at 45, and have current contracts for 160K, plus 3 proposal outstanding, so it's looking really good  :boxing:

36chambers

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#186 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 08:01:35 pm
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistently
2. Blog more frequently
3. Put together a climbing film or at least a few short clips
4. Go trad climbing more (I forget it's what gives me the most pleasure)
5. Get a training contract

Half way review:

1. TICK! Went to Font with Will over April and his poor cheshire hands couldn't keep up (though he was looking better at the start  ;)) Favourite moment was watching an Italian boys face drop when I topped out from Carnage and he'd been trying it for ages.
2. Nope Two blogs this year so far :no: Work life has taken over massively over the past 7 months but it has all paid off at least. On the plus side I have loads to write about when I get a bit of time spare. I joined instagram to keep some kind of media posting going...
3. Hmmm I have written a couple of scripts and have ideas of grandeur. More time needed etc, will see how this goes but fingers crossed for the project.
4. Nope Haven't tied on yet. Maybe after the summer again but for now am very much enjoying my bouldering.
5 TICK! Very pleased and relieved to bag one. The best part is that I get to be a student again from September to do my LPC. Will start as a trainee Sept 2016. Better get to Yosemite before then :whistle:

It's the simple pleasures that makes climbing worthwhile.

Sasquatch

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#187 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 08:02:29 pm
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistently
2. Blog more frequently
3. Put together a climbing film or at least a few short clips
4. Go trad climbing more (I forget it's what gives me the most pleasure)
5. Get a training contract

Half way review:

1. TICK! Went to Font with Will over April and his poor cheshire hands couldn't keep up (though he was looking better at the start  ;)) Favourite moment was watching an Italian boys face drop when I topped out from Carnage and he'd been trying it for ages.
2. Nope Two blogs this year so far :no: Work life has taken over massively over the past 7 months but it has all paid off at least. On the plus side I have loads to write about when I get a bit of time spare. I joined instagram to keep some kind of media posting going...
3. Hmmm I have written a couple of scripts and have ideas of grandeur. More time needed etc, will see how this goes but fingers crossed for the project.
4. Nope Haven't tied on yet. Maybe after the summer again but for now am very much enjoying my bouldering.
5 TICK! Very pleased and relieved to bag one. The best part is that I get to be a student again from September to do my LPC. Will start as a trainee Sept 2016. Better get to Yosemite before then :whistle:

It's the simple pleasures that makes climbing worthwhile.
:agree:

Fiend

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#188 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 08:09:57 pm
3. Do a wank, esoteric, Yorkshire grit, first ascent 
Better ask Will as he might have done the wankiest already?

36chambers

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#189 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 09:28:51 pm
3. Do a wank, esoteric, Yorkshire grit, first ascent 
Better ask Will as he might have done the wankiest already?

We've already touched base and he's shown me a glimpse of his upmost wankiest unclimbed problems. The crème de la crème as it were.
 

a dense loner

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#190 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 09:50:13 pm
What are they like compared to R-mans chossfests? I simply refuse to believe they can be in the same league  :o

Grubes

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#191 Re: Aims for 2015
June 23, 2015, 10:17:21 pm
I can direct you to some projects in un named crags 10 mins drive from my house with a 1 min walk in I can't be arsed doing for esoteric west yorks grit esoteric shitness

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#192 Re: Aims for 2015
June 24, 2015, 08:42:34 am
I wrote down my aims but seemingly never went public.

Aims 2011-2014 always included E5 OS, but always rather non-specific so....

Get Some In by May 2015. Strictly speaking it won't be onsight, but as the last time I was on the route was in 1980 I think I’m allowed. It is also a good stepping stone for a couple of BHAGs which involve 7a+-7b endurance on fixed or very good trad. gear.

Try 5 E5s.

Climb at Gogarth (with the new South Gogarth guide in hand... hint hint!)

7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, or Still Waters Run Deep). Try a 7b+.

Something Longish Hardish & Freeish at Naranjo de Bulnes

Something Longish Hardish & Freeish in Switzerland

Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route.



So far, epic fail on all of these. The carefully calculated run-up to Pembroke - aerocap++, a week of vertical crimping at Chulilla, Easter week falling off E4s, peaking in May - turned into three months of recovering from injury, cancelling Spain, a week of VS and HVS, peaking at E2/3!

Just booked flights for a whole 3 days in the Picos, so might get on the Rabada-Navarro if the weather gods smile but unlikely to have time to get on anything harder. Switzerland is happening, and my rope-gun is getting over his finger injury just in time.

Fair Head is a more than worthy substitute for Gogarth (and I'm a massive fan of the latter) despite what T_B may feel!



Wood FT

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#193 Re: Aims for 2015
June 24, 2015, 09:40:57 am
When are you going Duncan? Want to double up on a weather god application? I've just booked off a whole 5-days for the Naranjo in August.

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#194 Re: Aims for 2015
June 24, 2015, 09:55:17 am
Trad: Resurrection, Right wall (again!), Headhunter, Positron
Flashed Headhunter, yyfy. Big day on the Cromlech coming up, not sure about Positron, will find myself on the big pitch ths year no doubt.

Sport: Arch Enemies, Energie Positiva and Call of Nature
Sacked Call of Nature for now, just a little too intense but will get back on it this autumn
failed on Energie Positiva, just too pumped and my pre-trip training wasn't enough, lesson learnt
Arch Enemies next month I reckon, yeah, I will, currently on Why me? and absolutely loving it

Bouldering: try hard and often for once!
I tried hard on Narcissus but it's not hard, should really boulder more.

Big: complete a long, moderately hard and reasonably free ascent on the Naranjo Del Bulnes lumps
 BOOKED AND PSYCHED

Other: decorate and furnish house/have a moving in party, make a fictional climbing film.
Fuck it.

duncan

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#195 Re: Aims for 2015
June 24, 2015, 11:19:47 am
Guy, arriving 2nd August, climbing 3rd-5th. I'll PM you.

36chambers

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#196 Re: Aims for 2015
June 24, 2015, 12:21:31 pm
I can direct you to some projects in un named crags 10 mins drive from my house with a 1 min walk in I can't be arsed doing for esoteric west yorks grit esoteric shitness

Sounds perfect  :2thumbsup:

PM me so Will doesn't beat me to it?

JackAus

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#197 Re: Aims for 2015
August 10, 2015, 09:00:12 pm
Half way huh...

1. V8. Climb one, gets downgraded. So just climb another.... Very pleased.
2. DWS project. Got very close before it got too cold. Back to waiting for it to warm up abit.
3. Drop weight/get fitter. Lost 14kg so far. Kinda stopped trying to lose it atm and just been climbing so much. Still more to go. Would like to get down to 70, currently at 76.
4. Spend some decent time in the Grampians. Red atm because its only the start of winter now... Trying to plan a couple week trip for later in the season but time money and weather permitting.

Doesn't look like much progress overall but the weight loss has made me tear through a bunch of V7s recently and help get me close on the V8s... Climbing so much better lately.

See how the 2nd half of the year pans out.

Just a little update on the main goal..... :2thumbsup:

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#198 Re: Aims for 2015
August 10, 2015, 09:34:06 pm
Climbing - shifting back to chuffing this year after a 10 year hiatus.

1. To Bolt or Not to Be - 5.14a - Delayed for personal reasons to 2016 or 2017 

2. Climb remaining local 5.13a or harder routes. 7 of 10 currently done. - No Progress - Potential to get 1-2 more done this fall, but the likelihood is low

3. Climb 2 out of 5 of my existing sport projects , and 1 of my 2 existing trad projects.  - None sent yet, but solid progress on 2 of the sport projects earlier this year, and now waiting for better conditions. 

4. Bolt and climb four new 8th grade routes in AK.  Currently there are only 4. - I'm revising this to simply climbing 4 8th grade routes, and so far the two old projects listed above would both apply, as well as two old abandoned project I just found out at Byron.  Game on to see if I can get em done before the seaosn ends.
 
Life:

Full on into business start up.  Goal is revenue of 150K for 2015. BIG GOAL...  :boxing: - Getting there.  If we can get contact negotiations finished on two projects soon enough, we'll get there. Plus the potential for two more contracts would make this a big win. 

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#199 Re: Aims for 2015
August 30, 2015, 12:39:17 pm
I had a pretty productive year this year, which hopefully sets me up for next year. A few unfinished bit from this year and slightly more focus on specifics than last year.

1. Start running again. Min 5km run once a week. Definitely haven't been out every week, but I've been out most of them usually more than once and I've run further than this quota.
2. Get on some of the big E5s in Pembroke, the Pass, Gogarth. E.g. Right Wall, Headhunter, Positron. Got on Headhunter, was greasy, got scared. Not been to North Wales this year as I've been injured or abroad for most of the trad season.
3. Complete MA in Gritology: Master's Edge, Masters of the Universe, Master of Reality. One for Autumn/Winter
4. The big (and possibly unrealistic) one: Point Blank. Had a good look on a shunt and put in decent links. More feasible than I expected, won't happen this year due to injury, but a definite goal for Easter.
5. Make good use of summer holiday for trip out of Europe. Spent summer in Canada, with 10 days in Squamish. Did the Grand Wall and a bunch of classic cracks

I've been somewhat scuppered this year by a niggly wrist injury I've had since May. It is getting better, but very slowly and needs further investigation unfortunately. It felt fine on the Squamish cracks at least.

 

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