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Aims for 2015 (Read 93068 times)

Footwork

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#250 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 12:22:20 pm
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistently

This would have been a complete success, if only Will hadn't snatched a last minute victory from the Jaws of defeat. The roaches trip with my old nemesis and downfall, 'Spring Slab'. For three consecutive years Will has left me on the boggy floor, unable to get past the second move...

2. Blog more frequently

Only just started writing again towards the end of the year. Busy work life and no inspiration to write anything for a while, but I can feel it coming back  :)

3. Put together a climbing film or at least a few short clips

Nope. Something to aspire to in the future.

4. Go trad climbing more (I forget it's what gives me the most pleasure)

Hardly, but I did put Charming Crack to bed at last!

5. Get a training contract

YYFY. Biggest achievement of the year for me.
« Last Edit: December 18, 2015, 12:39:52 pm by Footwork »

SA Chris

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#251 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 12:22:29 pm
Pity you didn't make it up to Aberdeen for comp last Sat, was good vibe and good probs.

i barely made it out of bed

glad it went well. hopefully next year if they run the series again I'll be able to take part.

Only if you aren't competing against me in the vets! I'm not doing the rest of the series anyway, I'm going to miss too many as I'm in the Alps for the next one (that and the fact Gary Latter and Sheppy kicked my ass)

Will Hunt

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#252 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 01:25:42 pm
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistently

This would have been a complete success, if only Will hadn't snatched a last minute victory from the Jaws of defeat. The roaches trip with my old nemesis and downfall, 'Spring Slab'. For three consecutive years Will has left me on the boggy floor, unable to get past the second move...

Let us disect this in more detail. I've just had a look through the logbook and have determined the following, in this format:

[Battleground] [Date of Battle] [Victor (Scale of bloodshed)]
[Notes]


Barden Fell - 2nd Jan - Will (Decisive)
I got up Free Range

Brimham - 31st Jan - Ben (Marginal)
I think you did Rachel's Box Variation which I failed on, though only because I tore a fingertip off *sulk*

Font - April - Ben (Total annihilation - like the Somme)
Let's not even go there

Sigsworth - 21st Jun - Indecisive
We each got up everything. I think I did things quicker but you put in a much better effort on the hanging groove project.

Barden Fell - 4th July - Ben (Marginal)
You did do McNab sit, however I did not attempt this due to lack of skin. Not sure if this counts as burning off. Will need to consult Jerry.

Satellite Boulder - 15th July - Ben (Decisive)
I still haven't done the Gemenid Trail, despite having done 90% of it  :wall:

Bat Buttress and Yeadon - 18th July - Will (very marginal indeed)
I think the only thing I burnt you off on was The Arkenstone, which doesn't really count. Our Chapel and Battle Royale still awaiting sends  ;)

Anston Stones - 2nd Aug - Indecisive
Think we both did the same stuff

Rylstone - 5th Sept - Will (Marginal)
Molly Moocher stand

Barden Fell - 20th Sept - Indecisive

Brandrith - 3rd Oct - Ben (marginal)
Good send of Battlecat

Stanage - 25th Oct - Ben (very marginal)
You did do Help the Young but I'm blaming that on connies and skin!

Roaches - 5th December - Storm Desmond
Clear winner here.


Of course, all of that ignores the bleedin obvious that there were plenty of times we weren't climbing together when you burnt me off in absentia.


Can't wait till the next round. *ding ding*  :boxing:

Footwork

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#253 Re: Aims for 2015
December 18, 2015, 01:51:04 pm
You forgot Pinball Wizard - The last stand (of the pebble)  :whistle:

Reading that, we've had some good days climbing :hug:

36chambers

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#254 Re: Aims for 2015
December 19, 2015, 01:03:44 pm

Brimham - 31st Jan - Ben (Marginal)  Indecisive
I think you did Rachel's Box Variation which I failed on, though only because I tore a fingertip off *sulk*


You definitely also sent Rachel's Box Variation Will, hence why you logged it as sent :coffee:

However,

Anston Stones (Round 2: double or nothing) - 8th Aug - Ben (conclusive)
clawing his way up Reservation after dropping the final easier moves a few times



A good season regardless, I'm already taking bets for next year.

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#255 Re: Aims for 2015
December 20, 2015, 12:21:27 pm

Fun stuff:
- Climb again, in a sustainable way. Tick. And snuck in trips to Font and Switzerland.
- Surf more new spots and continue to improve as a surfer. Semi-tick. Improved as a surfer, but was quite limited in where I surfed.
- Get the weight back down to climbing fighting fitness Tick.
- 2 x BW deadlift Tick.

Serious stuff:
- Make a call on what to do with my life Work in progress.
- Normalise working situation Work in progress.
- Spend more time with my friends Could have done more.

All in all, progress in some respects, but my life needs some direction..

Wil

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#256 Re: Aims for 2015
December 20, 2015, 07:54:54 pm

I had a pretty productive year this year, which hopefully sets me up for next year. A few unfinished bit from this year and slightly more focus on specifics than last year.

1. Start running again. Min 5km run once a week. Failing on the regularity, in part due to work commitments in the Autumn, but putting the miles in a feeling good about it, which is the main thing :-)
2. Get on some of the big E5s in Pembroke, the Pass, Gogarth. E.g. Right Wall, Headhunter, Positron. Got on Headhunter, was greasy, got scared. The was basically injured for the rest of the year.
3. Complete MA in Gritology: Master's Edge, Masters of the Universe, Master of Reality. Not going to happen this year.
4. The big (and possibly unrealistic) one: Point Blank. Definitely feasible, and I think if I wasn't curtailed by injury I'd have managed this.
5. Make good use of summer holiday for trip out of Europe. Spent summer in Canada, with 10 days in Squamish. Did the Grand Wall and a bunch of classic cracks

It's been a really frustrating year, having put a lot of time into training over the last winter, then getting a bit swamped with work and losing my mojo for a bit. I regained some, and had a great day in May trying to do 30 E-grades on Stanage (got to 24 before injury and pub called). Unfortunately I pressed too hard coming round the lip on Quietus (got the onsight though YYFY) and aggravated an old wrist injury, which is still not sorted. Frustratingly it's not bad enough to stop me climbing altogether, but isn't up to climbing hard sport or training.

Was really pleased to onsight the Grand Wall, and really lucky that I got to lead every pitch!

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#257 Re: Aims for 2015
December 22, 2015, 12:49:52 pm
Holy Moly 2015 has been a good year!!!! Feel like after last summer and winter I continued improve really well, really enjoying being immersed in challenging situations. Very psyched to continue this. also have learnt not to push it if i dont feel psyched and am reaping the benefits of this as Im psyched more now

Climbing-wise 2014 was great, seeing me match or better myself in every climbing discipline.

trad

On sight more E5s. Simple really, keep getting on ace three star routes when you feel good and just have an honest go. it's not the onsight as a finished product that matters, but the onsight as a process.


Really psyched about this year's trad efforts in the E5 department; would have been happy doing one or two considering last year i did my first but ended up doing 6: Warpath, Killerkranky, Ships that pass in the night, Right Wall (YYFY), Wall of Prey, and Ordinary Route (I led Positron headwall - YYFY) - prob would have done more had I not fractured my heel!

Go to fairhead and the burren. had an amazing week trip to fairhead climbing loads of amazing routes. highlights being Wall of Prey E5 (so nearly fell off!) Hallowe'en E4 (amazing, cold, pretty close to falling off) Promised Land E4/5 (Amazing, exited the groove to find it was raining, so nearly fell off the arete-y move)

didnt make the burren but ill defo head there in the future!

Tick more extreme rock routes (currently on 22) I have done a couple this year so not all out fail. not overly bovved though

Some grit/more peak E4s.
Barely tradded in't peak this year - tried Usurper at Curbar but got well spanked.  :spank:

sport:

Red point 7c. Not sure if I'll be able to afford a Spain trip early this year and not sure I can bear uk sport just yet when the trad is so much better. Surprising! More surprising is that despite going to Europe I climbed them all in the UK and am semi converted to UK sport. managed 4: Cordless Madness (tenuous?), Sturgeon in the cupboard (?), Cry of Despair (took me ages (6 sessions) desperate felt all of 7c maybe + to me) and Stone the Loach (in a session felt pretty steady)

also nearly climbed herbie 7c+ in a session but never went back will use it as early season fitness gainer.

Flash 7b more likely in Spain than UK!

Again surprising - managed to onsight two in Gorge du Tarn - both soft though the big corner crack one does get 7b+ in the local guide. also flashed a softie in cheedale.

boulderhogging

Continue highball psyche! Finish off narcissus, do more cool ones! havent been back for Narcissus. wah! have done some cool highballs though - think I did White Wand after posting this before end of t'year?

Climb some 7A+s: help the young at stanage, demon wall roof at almscliff, Red Baron at Shipley? Many more I'm sure.

Haha after posting this I had an ace day at Shipley climbing Parker 7A/+, Phil's Wall 7A+ and Red Baron 7A+ plus did a few more after that. this winter has been a total shit-show for me though


Life-wise 2014 was a bit more all over the place and I didn't achieve what I aimed for (in fact Those two aspects of my life are now gone). This makes it more difficult for me to create meaningful goals.

Try and gain some direction in life apart from climbing.
have a salaried job??

Become comfortable in my singledom.
flipping wimmin. have achieved this zen state on occasions but also not at times. seeing a girl currently after a bit of a head-stress with another. however current girl goes to Oz in the new year... think Im comfortable enough now that I'll be fine 

Be less of a messy bastard in the house
. - I cant really comment on this but think I got better plus live somehwere else now

eat more healthily yeah

Be a good person. i hope so!

Here's hoping for a good 2015 for everyone!  :beer2:

All in all a smashing year! had some shit bits but cant have asked for much more climbing wise... heading off to Catalunya on 27th so may add to my sport tally but as I have already hit my goals figured I may as well post up my reply. alway enjoy reading how others have done!

Psyched for 2016!

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#258 Re: Aims for 2015
December 22, 2015, 02:18:12 pm
1. Get a proper training regime which will help to avoid injury, perhaps with a coach (don't get injured) Got a training plan, which I completed, but was repeatedly held back by a dormant bicep tendon injury. Got another training plan which aims to strengthen my antagonist muscles, and I have been sticking to this pretty well.
As I haven't been doing the proper training plan, I've ended up  training sporadically, doing a mix of endurance, fingerboarding and power endurance stuff.



2. Onsight more e5s (and e4s) A decent amount of onsights this year, highlights being Right Wall (flash) and Pebble Mill
3. Onsight/do ground up some e6s didn't try
4. Headpoint more e7s Instead of headpointing a bold e7, I headpointed a physically difficult e6 which was probably about 7b sport (around my current limit) - was really pleased with this

5. Climb 7c sport fail... tried one, got all the moves, then someone pulled a crucial hold off. I was keen for this goal, and still am... I need to find more 7cs to try and get on with it
6. Onsight at least 7a+ in Chulilla in feb. onsighted 7b. winner
7. Do a 7b+ in Chulilla poor goal for an onsighting trip!

8. Get back in to bouldering and do more 7bs. did one more 7b.... haven't done much bouldering this  year (a win in itself) as I've been on the sharp end so much
9. a 7b+


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#259 Re: Aims for 2015
December 22, 2015, 03:27:08 pm
0. Do lots of grit classics over the winter. (Careless torque, Renegade master, Super bloc, Joker,) flash some more grit 7C

flashed/on-sighted a load in albarracin which is sandstone but not grit so putting it as yellow. still got time this year to do careless torque hopfully

1. climb mecca extension in spring.

ended up just doing as many good routes as possible in the spring to build fitness for this, please to do it though as was a real mental block for falling off.

2. boulder short (less than 10 moves) 8A+ on the lime after doing 1.

fail, but I did do fat lip from a move in which is probably 8A+ so defiantly feeling stronger

3. climb evolution in autumn.

pfft.

4. boulder 8B (Keen Roof)

did zarzaparilla which gets 8B....but its not, its 8A.

5. get on hubble

came really close to completing this goal yesterday but the weather was just to demoralising to get the ropes out, oh well.

6. fix my elbows

Found out just doing fucking loads of push ups and not having massivly big days out makes them not hurt so sort of fixed.

Looking at the all the red it looks as though I've had a bad year, but its more that I changed my plans and I've actually had an absolute blast of a year, highlights being mecca ext, body snatchers (and learning to drill along with it), and a month of just climbing in Albarracin.

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#260 Re: Aims for 2015
December 22, 2015, 09:16:35 pm
0. Do lots of grit classics over the winter. (Careless torque, Renegade master, Super bloc, Joker,) flash some more grit 7C

flashed/on-sighted a load in albarracin which is sandstone but not grit so putting it as yellow. still got time this year to do careless torque hopfully

1. climb mecca extension in spring.

ended up just doing as many good routes as possible in the spring to build fitness for this, please to do it though as was a real mental block for falling off.

2. boulder short (less than 10 moves) 8A+ on the lime after doing 1.

fail, but I did do fat lip from a move in which is probably 8A+ so defiantly feeling stronger

3. climb evolution in autumn.

pfft.

4. boulder 8B (Keen Roof)

did zarzaparilla which gets 8B....but its not, its 8A.

5. get on hubble

came really close to completing this goal yesterday but the weather was just to demoralising to get the ropes out, oh well.

6. fix my elbows

Found out just doing fucking loads of push ups and not having massivly big days out makes them not hurt so sort of fixed.

Looking at the all the red it looks as though I've had a bad year, but its more that I changed my plans and I've actually had an absolute blast of a year, highlights being mecca ext, body snatchers (and learning to drill along with it), and a month of just climbing in Albarracin.
Nice to see someone take the correct grade for zas, that counts as a tick in itself :)

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#261 Re: Aims for 2015
December 22, 2015, 10:39:05 pm
1. Stay un-injured & climb lots despite birth of 2nd child.

The odd minor injury but nothing major, and did plenty of climbing despite family duties.

2.  RP 7c+ - hopefully Threadbare (right-hand) at Torbryn, plus maybe something at Ansteys;

I RP-ed Threadbare RH so this should possibly be green, but I think it's probably soft for the grade and I didn't manage anything at Ansteys.  Got close on La Creme though, so am gonna carry this over as a goal for next year.

3. Onsight plenty of E4s and at least 1 or 2 E5s - Right Wall &/or Il Duce would be good.

Absolute highlight of the year was an o/s of Right Wall - can't overstate how made up I was with this.  Also led around a dozen E4s in good style (and one more E5) so am going to put this in green, despite getting completely shut down on Il Duce (took a whipper on the crux, had to retreat and could barely walk for a week).

4. Go to North Wales for a weekend climbing.

Had a great long weekend with good friends.  Stroll On, Quasar, Dream of White Horses, and my first experience of  slate as well as a day on the Cromlech.

An excellent year overall!

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#262 Re: Aims for 2015
December 26, 2015, 11:21:16 am
More E points than this year.
Fail, 86 to much time spent running, more e3s than last year though.

E4 onsight
Didn't really try.

Go sport climbing

More bouldering


Don't think I clipped any bolts this year

Be organised enough to have a proper climbing trip (alps, morocco, America....)
Fail

Finish higher than 18th in a fell race
Fail, 21st best finish this year

A long run.
Partial failed on the bob graham round, but did the Glencoe skyline

Good year despite all that.

remus

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#263 Re: Aims for 2015
December 27, 2015, 06:57:56 pm

Godzilla, Biblins Cave
Pfft, didnt even try it.


Brean Topping
Had a session, decided it was sharp and about as inspiring as a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.


ShadowWalker, cheddar
Didnt even get on it.


Get board strong
I guess so. Had a good board season Jan - March and it seemed to pay off in font.


Try and not get injured from sitting at a desk all day
Usual tweaks and twinges but no show stoppers so taking the tick.


Save enough money to live on the road for a year (living meaning something marginally above abject poverty)
Late season car troubles aren't helping, but got a little money saved up.


Mark of the Beast and other cool dws stuff
Technically a fail, but had a really cool DWS season and did lots of other stuff (flash of barrel traverse, some fun splashdowns on Adrenochrome, falling off the last move of Wizard of Oz) so taking the tick.


various party tricks
Nein.


Looking at the above it looks pretty poor, but it doesn't feel like a bad year at all.

Started off with a really good trip to font that was almost certainly helped by a few months on the board and some enforced rest (due to rain) on the trip.

A pretty mediocre trad spell quickly morphed in to my first proper DWS season. Managed to drag myself up bits and pieces, but more importantly took a few decent splashdowns, got scared occasionally, got committed a lot and generally had a fucking awesome time. Like all the good bits of trad, sport and soloing all merged in to one sun baked bundle.

Once DWS season was at an end I migrated to the circuit board in time to get a modicum of fitness for a trip to turkey. Plenty of holiday grades to massage the ego but  was nice to focus on onsighting stuff and generally having fun.

Overall a good year, just did stuff I hadnt anticipated.

Will Hunt

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#264 Re: Aims for 2015
December 28, 2015, 09:12:32 pm
Carry on getting on the trad routes I get psyched for.

Barely tied on this year. I had wanted to do High Noon but didn't only really because the opportunity never arose. The only thing that I got psyched for was Black Annis which was good to do. I also got stuck into some nice highballs when the opportunity arose, Verge of Tranquility being the highlight here.


Quote
Do a real first 7C.

Did Underhand Extension today. Reluctant to call it a "real 7C" as I've done Underhand before and the 6C finish doesn't add a huge amount. Felt great to do it and to only just do it. Big swinging cut loose slap onto the top.


Quote
Sort out shoulder/neck ballache.

In hindsight, not particularly ambitious goals.

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#265 Re: Aims for 2015
December 28, 2015, 11:38:24 pm
Not usually into this but had a new hip on December 15th, 2015, so put together the following psyche list. Looking back at it now it was pretty ambitious but it's pretty cool so see what I managed to smash:

Gus 2.0 Ticklist

Bench Press 110kg
Not quite, 102.5 kg, that'll do as quickly lost gym psyche once I could climb again!

1-4-7 both arms Medium rungs (not Westway campus board!)
Done!

1-5-7 both arms (not westway campus board)
Left arm only

1 arm pull up both arms from locked out hang
Left arm only

Full box/ side splits
Not quite, pretty ambitious, but not far off!!

+55kg pull up
Smashed!

10 second half crimp hang on beast maker bottom rail
Not quite, 5 seconds

10 second front lever
Not even close! 3-5 seconds!

French 8a, 8a+, 8b
got back to 8a pretty quick, tried a few 8a+'s but no 8b's.

E7, E8, E9
Did and E7 3 and a half months after surgery. Weather hasn't really played ball for the rest!

Good form roundhouse, front and side kicks
Smashed!! Got some serious Thai power developing now!!

Wanshu Kata
Done!


Right then, there's still a few days left, I'm off down the gym for some bench pressing and stretching!! PUSH ON!!!

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#266 Re: Aims for 2015
December 30, 2015, 09:04:51 am
French 8a - not done/not tried
something inspiring in the mountains/on trad gear - not done/not tried

This should have been a given with the year I had planned... Somehow i managed to stop climbing for most of the year instead.

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#267 Re: Aims for 2015
December 30, 2015, 02:24:02 pm
1. Don't get injured.
2. Old-skool circuiting and easy high circuits I've never done:-

Yellow - Justice de Chambergeot
Yellow/orange - Pignon poteau
Orange - Grande montagne
Orange - Gros sablons

Yellow/orange - Envers d'apremont

Yellow/green/orange - Apremont

Orange - Dame Jouanne

2. Get the biggest, spongiest mat for my birthday
3. A few camping trips in the forest. Very hopefully a visit to the U.K.

1. Most injury free year ever, just the usual niggling shoulder problems.
2. I got my very big Snap wrap and haven't looked back since feels like I have a spotter with me. I reckon most accomplishments this year have been in part to it.

But absolutely no time spent doing easy circuits, as that would involve conciously leaving the mat at home. Only one short forest trip which didn't leave many rest day for that kind of thing. I'll roll the list over indefinitely.

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#268 Re: Aims for 2015
December 30, 2015, 02:26:54 pm
Complete my Diamond Project in Summer.

Managed this pretty quickly once Diamond season arrived, also put up another good new route to the left of it.

Tick these three classic 7b+'s:
Grand Canyon
Oceon of Emotion
The Wall of Evening Light

Fail - Didn't even get on any of them apart from a very brief go on the first half of TWOEL on a very greasy day...


Sport Climbing: Redpoint 7c and Onsight more 7a/7a+'s

Fail - Got back on the 7c at Dinbren and didn't put enough effort into because I was too busy being worried I didn't have enough fitness for Ceuse trip so spent a lot of the summer doing mileage. Came close to on-sighting a 7a+ but didn't do a lot of it this year, think my hardest on-sight was 6c+.


Bouldering: Tick a 7B
and do lot's of 7A's in the mountains.

Half a tick on this one, don't think I even tried a 7B but did do a fair few ace 7A's.

On-sight an E4 and do more classic trad/mountain routes.

Fail - Didn't do a single trad route and don't intend to any time soon.

Need to make next years goals more realistic... I did the one thing that was most important to me and that was my project on the Diamond.

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#269 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 10:18:20 am
1. V8.
Ticked in August. Went on to tick a few more (inc one that still gets V9 in guides) and 2 upper end 8s...  :punk:

2. DWS project.
:chair: Didn't get to try it much this year. Do still have a couple more days on it this trip though. Hopefully if I can get back to the break (FINALLY FUCKING GOT THERE!) then I have a beast plan to finish it off....

3. Drop weight/get fitter.
:punk: Lost about 14kg this year. Helped me float up a load of problems... :) Still got more to lose

4. Spend some decent time in the Grampians.
  :chair: Didn't get down at all. Had a good Sydney season instead... Friends have just gone down now but I didn't want a summer trip.

All in all, very good year I think. :)

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#270 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 12:04:27 pm
3. Drop weight/get fitter.
 :punk: Lost about 14kg this year. Helped me float up a load of problems... :) Still got more to lose

Fucking Hell, good effort!

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#271 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 12:50:00 pm
He was a right fat cunt to start with though ;-)

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#272 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 01:03:55 pm
Now I'm just a cunt. :)

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#273 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 08:31:37 pm
Try harder routes.
Ticked this on sport- almost every time I went out sport climbing this year I was on 7s. I succeeded on a fair few of them too, including my first 7a+. :dance1: Failed to try harder trad routes though- barely did any trad at all and only did one E-graded route!

Visit some new crags.

Climbed at no less than 25 new-to-me crags this year.  ;D

Daily upper and lower body stretches.

Ticked the daily stretches bit no problem but only did upper and lower about 60% of the time. Completely neglected core-type stretching though, an error which led to me pulling a muscle in my back last week...

Expand and improve my filmmaking/ photography and balance this with being a climber myself as well.

Unimaginable success film-wise, had a few photos published, did lots of climbing too, improving a bit in the process. YYFY.

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#274 Re: Aims for 2015
December 31, 2015, 10:18:17 pm
Climbing - shifting back to chuffing this year after a 10 year hiatus.

1. To Bolt or Not to Be - 5.14a - FAIL - Didn't even get on it.

2. Climb remaining local 5.13a or harder routes. 7 of 10 currently done. - FAIL - Didn't even get on any of them.

3. Climb 2 out of 5 of my existing sport projects , and 1 of my 2 existing trad projects.  - Mostly Fail - Did one of the sport routes in April, worked two more of them and sorted all of the moves, which was a good step forward ad they are harder than I thought they'd be-both in the 8b+/8c range.  Gave up on 1 of the trad routes as on return it was unworthy (and total shite gear which means it needs bolts and therefore no longer trad), didn't get to the second one. 

4. Bolt and climb four new 8th grade routes in AK.  Currently there are only 4.  - FAIL - Rebolted an old route that was named and graded at 12b, but is certainly in the 5.14 range instead.
 
Life:

Full on into business start up.  Goal is revenue of 150K for 2015. BIG GOAL...  :boxing:
- mostly success - didn't quite hit the 150K, but did quit the day job and am now fully self employed, and have contracts in place for HUGE year next year.

 

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