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Mobile fall arresters (Read 2731 times)

T_B

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Mobile fall arresters
December 19, 2014, 10:01:31 am
Rope access people. Has anyone used an ASAP for self-belaying rock climbing? Or is a mini traxion still the most popular mis-used thingy for 'shunting'? Or a shunt? Am planning to do some shunting in Pembroke next summer when I'm there en famille. Thanks.

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Mobile fall arresters
December 19, 2014, 10:27:17 am
I wouldn't bother with an ASAP. Micro-traxion works great unless you envisage reversing. I would suggest getting some low-stretch 'static' rope.

T_B

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#2 Re: Mobile fall arresters
December 19, 2014, 10:29:22 am
Cool - thanks JB.

Johnny Brown

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#3 Re: Mobile fall arresters
December 19, 2014, 07:19:07 pm
In rope access we use a second system for two main reasons; to protect against main rope failure, and (more common in practice) against user error of device on main line- eg death grab on a stop descender. These shouldn't be such a concern climbing as a traxion is fairly foolproof, and you can position the rope as you ab in (take a rope protector or two) and it isn't constantly in tension.

When I tested the Ushba rocker-style device back in 2001 it was one of only two on the market which had the potential to completely chop the rope on a fall. They may have redesigned the cam since then.

Sometimes when photographing I'll use a double rope system, mainly as the backup line can be rigged off to the side to help positioning, but also for peace of mind (aching in to Longhope was terrifying!). I use a Shunt or more recently a Kong backup, which is quite a neat little device.

Most climbers are nervous about toothed devices damaging the sheath in a fall. This is actually very unlikely as the fall factor is so small, but it's a good reason to use a low-stretch rope instead of dynamic as they have a stronger sheath and will stop the fall without a load of rope stretch.

 

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