Short granite slabs was more what I was thinking about! The area immediately around my house has several cliffs with slab routes up to 5.13d so it seems rude not to make a modest effort at getting better at them. Right now any slab harder than mid 5.11 seems like the living end.Do you mean relative to the standard Teams? As far as I can tell, in classic confusing 5.10 fashion, the Team VXi is - or was - a different shoe to the Team and uses - or used - a much softer rubber.
Five Ten website is awful.
Quote from: cha1n on December 04, 2014, 07:01:42 pmQuote from: habrich on December 04, 2014, 03:19:50 pmShort granite slabs was more what I was thinking about! The area immediately around my house has several cliffs with slab routes up to 5.13d so it seems rude not to make a modest effort at getting better at them. Right now any slab harder than mid 5.11 seems like the living end.Do you mean relative to the standard Teams? As far as I can tell, in classic confusing 5.10 fashion, the Team VXi is - or was - a different shoe to the Team and uses - or used - a much softer rubber.I love soft shoes on steep ground but now I've just moved to Sheffield and am climbing on quite a few grit slabs, I find my soft shoes aren't supportive enough for slab work. I've just got a pair of Anasazi VCS and I think they are great for slabs. Not dissimilar to the blackwings but have much more stiffness laterally which helps on those occasions where you are standing on small edges/smears. I usually wear dragons/teams/blackwings.Thanks. I have tried Anasazi VCS but they don't seem to fit me well. And I do want to try something significantly softer. I have a good collection of stiffer shoes, which work well on steeper granite slabs and walls, but I think a different style of shoe may be optimal for the easier-angled more frictiony slabs.
Quote from: habrich on December 04, 2014, 03:19:50 pmShort granite slabs was more what I was thinking about! The area immediately around my house has several cliffs with slab routes up to 5.13d so it seems rude not to make a modest effort at getting better at them. Right now any slab harder than mid 5.11 seems like the living end.Do you mean relative to the standard Teams? As far as I can tell, in classic confusing 5.10 fashion, the Team VXi is - or was - a different shoe to the Team and uses - or used - a much softer rubber.I love soft shoes on steep ground but now I've just moved to Sheffield and am climbing on quite a few grit slabs, I find my soft shoes aren't supportive enough for slab work. I've just got a pair of Anasazi VCS and I think they are great for slabs. Not dissimilar to the blackwings but have much more stiffness laterally which helps on those occasions where you are standing on small edges/smears. I usually wear dragons/teams/blackwings.
Those old school slipper designs are too loose in the toe, IMO. I have an old pair of Five Ten 5X, yet another one of their blink-and-you-miss-it shoes, which are a Mocc with the old Anasazi heel and a velcro strap. That's getting close to what I am after. Also all that part of the Five Ten range are either Stealth C4 or Onyxx. I want something with softer rubber.Speedster were replaced by Futuras in Sportiva's range, I think.
Those old school slipper designs are too loose in the toe, IMO. I have an old pair of Five Ten 5X, yet another one of their blink-and-you-miss-it shoes, which are a Mocc with the old Anasazi heel and a velcro strap. That's getting close to what I am after. Also all that part of the Five Ten range are either Stealth C4 or Onyxx. I want something with softer
Sounds like an Instinct Slipper job...
That's exactly the characteristics I want to try: soft, sticky, sensitive, precise.
I came away from the shop with a pair of La Sportiva Speedsters. Very sensitive and use the 'No Edge Technology' so they smear like a worn in shoe straight out of the box. Don't think I'll be wearing them in horizontal roofs or anything but I think they'll be excellent on the grit. Perhaps another model to consider.