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benchmarks for the elderly (Read 37530 times)

andy popp

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#175 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 19, 2018, 11:32:15 pm
Since Johnny did the E7 right of the Drainpipe, Nick has done what he's describing as the true direct on Curving Arete, another E7, Johnny has done the wall left of November, E6, and just today Nick a line breaking left out of Troach; haven't seen a grade for this one yet but Nick describes it as gnarly and dangerous so I would guess its at least another E7.

SA Chris

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#176 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 20, 2018, 09:42:00 am
2 old men transforming the profile of the crag over the space of a couple of days. Awesome.

Neil F

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#177 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 20, 2018, 12:41:36 pm
2 old men transforming the profile of the crag over the space of a couple of days. Awesome.

Fixed that for you Chris.

 :)

mark20

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#178 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 20, 2018, 02:51:38 pm
Any photos of these latest Cloggy routes about?

andy popp

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#179 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 20, 2018, 03:11:30 pm
There are plenty on Nick's FB page,  haven't seen any elsewhere.

mark20

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#180 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 24, 2018, 04:15:15 pm
Mick Lovatt has made the 3rd ascent of the steep and loose Requiem for a Vampire (E8 6b)  :punk:

https://www.facebook.com/dmmclimbing/photos/a.191468200900971.48257.120904307957361/1788430127871429/?type=3&theater

andy popp

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#181 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 24, 2018, 08:55:26 pm
Phil Davidson has been ticking E7 and E8 this year, after what I think has been a pretty long lay off.

habrich

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#182 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 26, 2019, 08:52:09 pm
Yuji Hirayama, just turned 50 and has FA'd a new 8c+ ... not absolutely at the age-adjusted-cutting-edge but I bet it is not soft for the grade.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvdCheojrBP/

habrich

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#183 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 18, 2019, 12:07:50 am
Somehow missed this event in June: Bill Ramsey's redpoint of Jumbo Pumping Hate 5.14a/ 8b+ at Clark Mountain aged 59, days before scheduled hip surgery. Not a new benchmark grade-wise but perhaps a new benchmark for hard-routes-with-heinous-approaches?

There is a great interview with Bill at the Runout podcast, about this route and other stuff (training, chipping, modern climbing culture, etc)

andy popp

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#184 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 11, 2019, 02:46:08 am
This is a great story! When I first started I got hold of a magazine, probably Mountain, with an article by or about Jones and Hudon that I read and reread obsessively, as you do as fourteen year old.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/mark-hudon-63-climbs-freerider-99-7-free-as-can-be/?fbclid=IwAR0Y3BkUGKPSr4OCaFlbPVeneQAFgDnx2LpbM9wGjd_ax5TzomTHE4y6aMM

andy popp

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#185 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 11, 2019, 03:16:05 am
I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

Pretty certain Nick has extended this run another two years. I wouldn't bet against him stretching it to forty years.