[kelvin]

The walk-in would be a bit boggy tho.

[Will Hunt]

John Long has just been on the Today program and has informed the BBC that the holds on Dawn Wall are no greater than the width of "a shilling"!

Cries in the studio of "Good heavans!"

 

[andy popp]

John Long on the Today programme!!! God, how I wish I'd heard that, the one day I don't listen to it ...

[kelvin]

iPlayer?

[Will Hunt]

Broadcast at approx 07.22

[tomtom]

TODAY programme??? eh>?

I'd rather listen to the soundtrack from a Fiend climbing video than John Humphries patronising dribble....

[andy popp]

I know, but it's not the same as listening along and suddenly thinking "Holy fuck, John Long is on the Today programme!"

[Danny]

TODAY programme??? eh>?

I'd rather listen to the soundtrack from a Fiend climbing video than John Humphries patronising dribble....

I love John. Probably not the right tool for the informal chat kind of jobs. But just right for cornering evasive, duplicitous sorts.

I hear KJ is getting some special Australian fingertape delivered. Shoddy style.

 

[lagerstarfish]

I'd rather listen to the soundtrack from a Fiend climbing video than John Humphries patronising dribble....

that's only because he scares you - because you are weak

[Johnny Brown]

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02gfbkb/player

Good heavens.

[Doylo]

The current situation is a funny one. TC has done the last 5.14 pitch and must just want to dart for the summit but KJ is still trying pitch 15. He must be dying to get it in the bag but his punter mate keeps dropping the 9a.

[Danny]

What a punt. I reckon he should start sessioning the dyno pitch to pass the time.

[petejh]

I hear KJ is getting some special Australian fingertape delivered. Shoddy style.

Well shoddy    If they didn't pack correctly before heading up the wall and they discover they need something that isn't in their box of spare stuff marked 'Kevin and Tommy's big wall stash of stuff for special delivery by oompa loompas', then the ascent should be declared null and void. Back around, nothing to see here.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Who's declaring anything null and void on that basis?

There's a lot of pushing things to the limit to an extent that a lot of people feel a bit uncomfortable with, and which somehow don't fit well with other aspects of their style - but that's OK, you can just take the piss out of anyone that doesn't agree with you.

As for the tick, Tommy could've just led p.7, and he'd have had a claim on the individual ascent, given that the Molar is a traverse?

[petejh]

I was joking (poorly) although I might be the only one who thought it funny. Taking the piss or ignoring it seem like the only sensible responses to this story - I'm truly bored of hearing about the minutiae of two people's attempt to climb Dawn Wall so I should probably ignore it and not post.

[Fultonius]

Nah Pete, is pretty obviously a piss take. I found it funny anyway! 

[slackline]

They're both trying to free every pitch. Thus far TC has done so up to and including no. 15, KJ not done 15 yet. If one of them does every pitch it will count, but obviously it's nicer if they both do every pitch. Sounds like they both lead on the harder pitch, but just swing leads on the easier ones.

 

I said free slackline, not lead free. I for one don't care whether they both lead a 5.12 or if one of them seconds it.

Alex, it wasn't a personal attack on you beacuse I know that you are just repeating what you read elsewhere, just as everyone else with.

However, would you have taken the tick if you'd Red-pointed Era Vella on top-rope?  I very much doubt you would, because in sport climbing when you say you've Red-Pointed a route something you mean you've led it.

The same is true of multi-pitching, where 'freeing' a pitch it means its led and over the entiriety of the route you have at least two people [leading] free every pitch.  Commonly its a case of swinging pitches (or blocks) as Caldwell and Rodden did when they blasted up Salathe for their 'team free'.  If only one person leads all the pitches then they alone have freed the route as Lynn Hill did on The Nose and Steph Davis did on Salathe.

Yeah, we are trying for a ‘team free’ ascent. We want to both free very pitch. We started out swinging leas. Then, at some point it just doesn’t really make sense. When we reached pitches where we had to try them a bunch [to redpoint], we would just alternate [lead] tries. If one person sends it, the other person would just top rope it afterwards. So far this has worked out great. There’s enough sketchy gear up here that, mentally, it’s a lot easier to just top-rope [certain] pitches. We can play off each other’s strengths that way.

Sauce

The second and third sentences appear to me contradict each other unless you accept that following/top-roping a pitch without resting counts as free, but I don't as I've explained above.

Both trying to red-point the hard pitches is common sense (or seemed so at the start) as it upped the chances of achieving the overall 'team ascent'.  Its a little strange that Jorgenson is continuing to try this pitch as he could have taken the next one where he seemed more solid on the side-ways dyno whilst Caldwell did the loop.  I'm sure if Jorgenson doesn't get pitch 15 that he's stuck on he'll sack it off and they will complete the climb achieving the stated 'team free' ascent to give the hardest multi-pitch route to date. 

As for the tick, Tommy could've just led p.7, and he'd have had a claim on the individual ascent, given that the Molar is a traverse?

Unfortunately not, from the same article it states they swung pitches from 1 through to 5 so there will be two or three that he didn't lead there depending on who went first.

[finbarrr]

I was joking (poorly) although I might be the only one who thought it funny. Taking the piss or ignoring it seem like the only sensible responses to this story - I'm truly bored of hearing about the minutiae of two people's attempt to climb Dawn Wall so I should probably ignore it and not post.

can't make enough jokes about those two guys camping on that wall.
even when they  top out (which, sadly, for that very likeable tommy caldwell, is going to be is a rather unsatisfactory style) it's only 9a max isn't it?
hardly significant nowadays 
even if they give it 9a+, that's after five years of work.
people are almost onsighting that grade.

[finbarrr]

They're both trying to free every pitch. Thus far TC has done so up to and including no. 15, KJ not done 15 yet. If one of them does every pitch it will count, but obviously it's nicer if they both do every pitch. Sounds like they both lead on the harder pitch, but just swing leads on the easier ones.

 

I said free slackline, not lead free. I for one don't care whether they both lead a 5.12 or if one of them seconds it.

Alex, it wasn't a personal attack on you beacuse I know that you are just repeating what you read elsewhere, just as everyone else with.

However, would you have taken the tick if you'd Red-pointed Era Vella on top-rope?  I very much doubt you would, because in sport climbing when you say you've Red-Pointed a route something you mean you've led it.

The same is true of multi-pitching, where 'freeing' a pitch it means its led and over the entiriety of the route you have at least two people [leading] free every pitch.  Commonly its a case of swinging pitches (or blocks) as Caldwell and Rodden did when they blasted up Salathe for their 'team free'.  If only one person leads all the pitches then they alone have freed the route as Lynn Hill did on The Nose and Steph Davis did on Salathe.

Yeah, we are trying for a ‘team free’ ascent. We want to both free very pitch. We started out swinging leas. Then, at some point it just doesn’t really make sense. When we reached pitches where we had to try them a bunch [to redpoint], we would just alternate [lead] tries. If one person sends it, the other person would just top rope it afterwards. So far this has worked out great. There’s enough sketchy gear up here that, mentally, it’s a lot easier to just top-rope [certain] pitches. We can play off each other’s strengths that way.

Sauce

The second and third sentences appear to me contradict each other unless you accept that following/top-roping a pitch without resting counts as free, but I don't as I've explained above.

Both trying to red-point the hard pitches is common sense (or seemed so at the start) as it upped the chances of achieving the overall 'team ascent'.  Its a little strange that Jorgenson is continuing to try this pitch as he could have taken the next one where he seemed more solid on the side-ways dyno whilst Caldwell did the loop.  I'm sure if Jorgenson doesn't get pitch 15 that he's stuck on he'll sack it off and they will complete the climb achieving the stated 'team free' ascent to give the hardest multi-pitch route to date. 

As for the tick, Tommy could've just led p.7, and he'd have had a claim on the individual ascent, given that the Molar is a traverse?

Unfortunately not, from the same article it states they swung pitches from 1 through to 5 so there will be two or three that he didn't lead there depending on who went first.

what i understood, is that they (in their big-wall-mind) do understand top-ropeing as "free-climbing". and that their stated goal of a team ascent means they both climb all pitches free. if "KJ" does not free a pitch, either on lead or following/top-ropeing that means their stated goal of a team ascent is not realised.

"TC" will have climbed his five year "proj" in a bastardized style .
TC would get a team free ascent
KJ would get nothing

[kelvin]

That was what I took from the interview - both want to do the climb clean. Every pitch lead by one of them and it's fine for the other to top rope it. KJ no longer has to worry about leading anything else, so the pressure's off in that respect. Let's hope his skin heals...

Franco, in fine style, topping on Salmon Slab at the weekend - I'm finding that thread far more interesting and that film of the Scut fellow in the odd shoes waltzing up the gritstone? Sod Yosemite. I've climbed on that slab at Bamford.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

As for the tick, Tommy could've just led p.7, and he'd have had a claim on the individual ascent, given that the Molar is a traverse?

Unfortunately not, from the same article it states they swung pitches from 1 through to 5 so there will be two or three that he didn't lead there depending on who went first.
[/quote]

Yes, quite, but if it was you in that position, would you deny yourself the tick? Personally I wouldn't be bothered about discrediting TC with an ascent because of that, but p.7 in particular and possibly p.12 stand out.

KJ has just stopped trying - TC helped himself to some milk from the Hydro-Flask (TM US patent pending) with TC written on it.

[SA Chris]

I found it funny anyway! 

+1

[DAVETHOMAS90]

www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-162015-special-dawn-wall-edition-day-11

Cool pics here, but no cigar as yet 

[fatboySlimfast]

Ethics, pah!........
Let's cut to the chase and as the real question here........


how do you masturbate in a porta ledge without waking up the other guy?

[Paul B]

ask PTPP!