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Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed (Read 106791 times)

ghisino

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Does anyone know if the the fixed lines were still in-situ from previous sessions on the route?

Don't think so.

I recall reading a blog or interview saying that the beginning and end of the season are logistical sufferfests.

also, their ledges popped up from nothing sometime in late october, i assume that most of the fixing work was done at the same time.

DAVETHOMAS90

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what are you trying to say tho Dave, that this isn't as impressive as most people think or that you don't think it'll be that impressive in the future?
I would say the current style is probably as good as you can get while still been able to get to the top

Hi Jim.

Agree with you about, possibly the best style.. and still get to the top.

I'm really psyched with the concept, the whole "will it go?" story, and what a mega, multi year story, along with the technical difficulty of the climbing; it's a real "unlocking the key to your heart" fairytale.

I love a beautiful ending, but Hollywood isn't "quite" doing it for me on this one - there's something a little hollow perhaps. Don't know how to put that across without sounding too negative.

There seems to be a bit of "The Emperors New Clothes" about it, which is more a reference to how we try to make sense of it, no?

Some of my thoughts will be influenced by lack of information too. I cringed a bit, re-reading my posts yesterday; didn't put things across well.

Maybe this dream has a long way to go?

DAVETHOMAS90

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If they were on the wall without the support, I'd find it easier to relate to.

For me, it seems a misleading question to ask, is it harder to stay on the wall?

Surely, most of us relate to being on the wall, in terms of some inherent self sufficiency - not because it's "necessarily" harder. We want to improve our relationship with it.

If you're doing things just because they're more arduous, why not just throw out the sleeping bags? That would be a strange thing to do. It wouldn't make it "better" - particularly if you were offsetting that hardship with a heater, and a feed of electricity to the ground.

I can imagine plenty of people preferring to remain up there. What a cool place to be!

I'm not trying to take anything away from what KJ and TC are doing, but trying to be clearer about we can say they're doing.

Enough from me.

lagerstarfish

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be interesting to see how Clif Bar etc describe the ascent after the lads have finished

r-man

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duncan

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Updated topo from Erik Sloan's yosemitebigwall.com website.

TC is trying pitch 16, via a down-climb and lower traverse into the Wall of Early Morning Light section, avoiding the big sideways dyno. KJ is still trying pitch 15.

Now a national news story in the US. CBS News, NY Times.


duncan

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Caldwell has red-pointed the loop version of pitch 16; Jorgeson is giving his skin a rest. FB

andy popp

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I was just about to post the same. Believe that means Caldwell now has nothing harder than 5.13d between him and the top.

kelvin

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Excuse me my confusion here - pitch 16 is the dyno pitch @ 9a? Then how can Caldwell bypass that at 8b+(?) and still claim the climb?

*feels like it's all being made up as it progresses

lagerstarfish

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maybe he's going to try the 9a as well and the 8b+ version was just insurance against failure?

andy popp

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Excuse me my confusion here - pitch 16 is the dyno pitch @ 9a? Then how can Caldwell bypass that at 8b+(?) and still claim the climb?

*feels like it's all being made up as it progresses

 I think he has said for some time that he would probably do it via the loop rather than the dyno. The free route doesn't follow a single aid line exactly; there isn't 'a climb' to claim as yet (because it hasn't had a first ascent), Caldwell is as free to decide on the line he wants to take as any first ascentionist is.

kelvin

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... and if KJ does pitch 15 when his skin's healed, followed by the dyno? Then Caldwell has just done a 'lesser' varient? The team ethos seems a bit flaky here.

Big walling is more confusing than bouldering at Stony.

I'll shut up now, as I don't want to appear critical as it's pretty, bloody amazing whatever they get done.

El Mocho

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... and if KJ does pitch 15 when his skin's healed, followed by the dyno? Then Caldwell has just done a 'lesser' varient? The team ethos seems a bit flaky here.

Big walling is more confusing than bouldering at Stony.

I'll shut up now, as I don't want to appear critical as it's pretty, bloody amazing whatever they get done.

Or, in my mind, KJ will have done the less good variation. Why do a 9a version when there is an 8b+ one? It's not bouldering at Stoney, it's a big wall...

Either way come on boys.

Doylo

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Is it all really that hard to understand? :wall:

abarro81

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a dense loner

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Yes. I don't have a fucking clue what's going on and I've been climbing 20years

Doylo

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Yes. I don't have a fucking clue what's going on and I've been climbing 20years

Did they not tell you about the intricacies of futuristic big walls during those early days at Hobson Moor?

kingholmesy

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:wall:

+2, although it does seem a bit more complicated than the mighty back wall traverse at Hobson Moor.


Either way come on boys.

More importantly this  :agree:

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Paul B

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Whilst they have a help team, it also sounds like they spend a bunch of time rigging ropes for the media crew, so hardly lounging around.

From the above, I think you're (vastly) underestimating just how sapping hauling is, and how much water etc. will be required to keep a team on a wall for this length of time. The loads moved will be significant (far far greater than any expenditure in fixing ropes here and there!).

jwi

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Especially for lightweight climbers like these, they wouldn't even be able to body-haul the water needed for a siege like this. Never mind the gas and the food.


SA Chris

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Do the slaves carry the full poop tubes down and empty them for them? If so, that's dedication beyond the call of duty.

petejh

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Wonder what they're paying the oompa-loompa's?

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lagerstarfish

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surely the smart slaves will have stashed the water at the top and lower it down?

maybe use a hose to plumb the route properly?

gravity and a big pipe could also be used as the basis for a poo and wee disposal system

it'd make things easier for the next team

 

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