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Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed (Read 98712 times)

Duma

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Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 19, 2014, 08:23:09 am
https://www.facebook.com/#!/180070212030430/photos/a.230368410333943.51059.180070212030430/775662135804565/?type=1&theater

Jaspersharpe

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Jaspersharpe

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#2 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 19, 2014, 08:36:57 am
Oh and wow etc.  :bow:

Wood FT

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#3 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 19, 2014, 09:11:38 am
yep can't think of anything better than WOW. Does this mean it's done or do they have to now start from the bottom and do it in a push? Think we'll need this guy if when that happens 


danm

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#4 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 19, 2014, 09:23:32 am
Or even this


Danny

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#5 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 19, 2014, 11:05:32 pm
This thing is astonishing. A real step change for the cutting edge of free climbing. Too late for a redders this year?

In recent years I kinda get the sense that the definition of big walling is percolating ever downward into pretty much standard multi pitch cragging. Its funny that some of these euro lime "big walls" with one nails pitch low down and 6b to the top type affairs are "8c big walls" and so is this, but the difference in actual difficulty is clearly orders of magnitude apart. Loads of 8c techy granite pitches stacked atop each other...ridiculous.

Danny

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#6 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 20, 2014, 12:53:09 am
And by 8c it would appear I mean 9a. Never any good at the yds>french conversion.

petejh

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#7 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 20, 2014, 08:47:19 am
What's also interesting is how ascents that perhaps once would have remained for years cutting-edge are now, as soon as the ink has dried on the facebook page, viewed as an obvious flash-attempt carrot for a breed of uber climbers. The accelerating effect of the information age... I'm talking about the anticipation of the likes of Ondra, Megos and whoever else emerges from the mutant wad-swamp attempting things like Dawn Wall, on their path to total mastery of climbing.
 

jwi

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#8 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 20, 2014, 12:03:39 pm
Wogü in Rätikon is generally considered the hardest multi pitch free climb in the alps, no? “Only” 8c, 7c+, 8b+/8c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, and 7c+. Still it has only one (!) one-push ascent.

JMB

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#9 Re: Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed
November 20, 2014, 12:33:07 pm
This thing is astonishing. A real step change for the cutting edge of free climbing. Too late for a redders this year?

UKC says they are going for it in December.

duncan

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I love all this obviously. The Dawn Wall / Mescalito area is such an amazing bit of rock. I've been up there - in hammocks - half a lifetime ago and it's so cool it's becoming a free route now.

To put this in context, there are, broadly speaking, two groups of El Cap. free routes.

The 5.13 (7c+/8a/8a+) routes with double-digit number of ascents: Freerider, Golden Gate, El Corazon, and - a bit harder - El Nino and Salathe. These get regular ascents.

The 5.13+/5.14- (8b/8b+) routes with one or few ascents: PreMuir, Zodiac, Dihedral Wall, Lurking Fear (no second ascent, a likely sandbag at 13c) and Magic Mushroom. The Nose probably fits here, it’s had very few free ascents considering it’s status and history. "Significant repeats" if they get done.

In the future there will be a group of 5.14 (8c/8c+) routes, the lines are there, not climbed yet.

Then there is Dawn Wall with multiple 5.14+ (9a) pitches, so well beyond anything done to date.

Hope the weather holds into December for them.

gme

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Is this classed as done now or does it have to be done bottom to top in a single push before its classed as ticked.

Muenchener

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If I read it correctly neither of the projecteers has done all the hard pitches. So, on this hypothetical continuous push, does one climber have to lead all the pitches or are alternate leads ok?

By British trad rules as I always understood them, alternate leads would be completely valid, but the second would have to climb the pitches too and not jumar. American big wall rules seem to be different and more complicated.

jwi

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Anything goes really. Tactics used for free ascents in increasing order of difficulty: Switching leads-second jumar, Switching leads-second follows free sometimes/jumar sometimes, Dedicated leader - second jumar everything, Switching leads-second follow free on every pitch, Free solo.

Generally I'm totally indifferent to news about climbers trying but not succeeding on routes, but here the news is at least about free climbing individual pitches. (Quality writing about attempts is of course something else entirely, quality writing about sport is a rare beast and always appreciated)
« Last Edit: November 20, 2014, 07:01:42 pm by jwi »

Muenchener

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Free solo.

Having seen the video of The Sideways Dyno (not to mention The Other Sideways Dyno) I'm going to hazard a guess of "not applicable" for this option.

andy popp

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They're making a from the bottom attempt at the moment and have done the first ten pitches. Would be amazing to see them succeed, though I'm not holding my breath!

duncan

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They are on the crux 9a/5.14+ pitches today.

As part of the media blitz Adidas outdoors have paid Tom Evans to be there. I hope it's more than just cans of 'Old English', he must be freezing his ass off down in the trees.

Tom Evans website

Will Hunt

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I have all my fingers and toes crossed for them. What an incredibly thing to pull off.

Tom Evans writes that they have lines fixed to the floor and somebody is jugging up with fresh water. I'm interested in what this does to the legitimacy of the ascent in the eyes of the big walling community. Surely if all the pitches have been done and they are supported from the ground with supplies, then in theory they could stay up there indefinitely (or until storms/cabin fever force them down) and siege it into submission? Obviously its still very very difficult indeed because of the standard of the climbing.

Lopez

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I have to say, even though i'm mightily impressed with the whole saga which i've been following now for years, the 'tactics' seem to be pushing the limits as much as the climbing.

I mean, they are using pre-fixed ropes to move up and down the wall, past pitches that they still have not climbed in this push and practicing moves from above, 'camping' above their high point, with a support team bringing them food and water and generally keeping them stocked up sort of in classic Colonial Himalayan style, and in today's report on the first pitch apparently Tommy led through and then lowered back to the ledge from where he gave a top rope to Kevin.  :shrug:

I know is the hardest route ever, logistics are complicated and all that, but it does seem that they are just doing single pitch cragging with the difference that instead of lowering to the ground or topping out in between routes they lower or ascend pre-fixed ropes to pre-stocked camps...

Is it the case that as far as you climb all pitches in succession without touching the floor then anything goes? No need to, you know, start from the bottom and move upwards?

Lopez

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Ninjaed by Will Hunt   :chair:

abarro81

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'camping' above their high point

I believe this is standard tactics for Salathe free ascents unless doing it in a day as there's a bivi spot above the headwall pitch, so it's hardly a new thing for el cap.

nathanie1

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abarro81, for a brief moment I thought you had made international headlines.


andy popp

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They've done the hardest pitch (on this push I mean). Might this thing actually be on?

Stubbs

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Interesting to see KJ is wearing La Sportiva TC Pros, wonder if he's changed sponsor or they were the only thing suitable? (FB photo may not link)


Doylo

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I don't blame them for stacking everything in their favour on something as futuristic as this. They've shown unprecedented levels of commitment to creating by far the hardest big wall ever. I think it's a bit harsh to be nit picking because they're using fixed lines to their advantage.

 

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