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Pinches wall - Raven tor (Read 10436 times)

haydn jones

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Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 06, 2014, 10:54:47 pm
So I was hoping people could share problems they know of which aren't already in the PDB guide.

I'll start off with one I made tonight (L1, R1) L3, R11, R14, L14
Make sure you go right again from 11 to 14 no going up with left hand first!

haydn jones

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#1 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 02:29:18 am
(l1, R1) R7, L8, R23 (middle slot), L14, R14

Andy Harris

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#2 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 11:41:56 am
Here's a few of mine I've done over the years including some projects a year ago.still a few projects to go so will be keeping them to myself ;). Some great moves on these.shame they can't be named . Funny to grade as they are quite unique but what the hell. Enjoy!

Lh/rh 1, rh 7, Lh 21, rh 22. 7cish
Lh/rh 1, Lh 17, rh 7, Lh 18, rh 19, Lh 20, rh 22. 8aish
lh/rh 1, Lh 17, rh 7, Lh 21, rh 22 8aish
lh/rh 1, rh 4, Lh 9, rh 7, Lh 18, rh 19, Lh 20, rh 22 8aish
lh/rh 15, rh 16 (or possibly 19?), lh 21, rh 14 7bish
lh/rh 1, rh 4, lh 9, rh 8, lh 15 then up the bearclaw 7c+ish

r-man

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#3 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 02:48:53 pm
Some great moves on these.shame they can't be named.

Name them, why not?

Malc's One Armer already has international fame, and Bear Claw is well known to peak lime addicts. I can't imagine new names will offend many people any more than the idea of bouldering on pinches wall already does...  ;)

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#4 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 03:33:57 pm
Obviously Ted's problem and Chris Barr's problem already have names too.

lagerstarfish

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#5 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 03:40:50 pm
I see some names there already in the description

Baish, cish, tish (+ish), bish, aish

Wood FT

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#6 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 03:48:43 pm
I see some names there already in the description

Baish, cish, tish (+ish), bish, aish

you just told me to fuck off in Hebridean

r-man

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#7 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 03:49:32 pm
Obviously Ted's problem and Chris Barr's problem already have names too.

Which are they? I added some problems from Ted's scorecard to pb, but I'm not sure if any of these is Ted's or Chris's problem...

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/72-raven-tor/boulders/349-pinches-wall#.VGN55Ml30Qs

lagerstarfish

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#8 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:23:11 pm
Baish, cish, tish (+ish), bish, aish

you just told me to fuck off in Hebridean
Qwghlmian actually

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#10 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:26:51 pm
Ted's problem is the one where you cross over with your right from 1 then make a big lock to the jugs out left. It's one of the ones in the guide but I've heard a number of people independently refer to it as Ted's because of how easily he does it.

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#11 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:36:01 pm
Retronaming problems because somebody makes it look easy? You must be on crack, unless you want a lot of "Dave's problem"s out there. Nothing on pinches wall that doesn't already have a guidebook name either needs one or should be given one.

Back on track - this classic:
LH1 RH1, RH6 (thumb only), LH8, RH 14 LH 14.

Obvs there's a harder version using 9 not 8, as per.

haydn jones

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#12 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:45:23 pm
(L1, R1) R6, L10, R14, L14

haydn jones

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#13 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:46:38 pm
Think teds problem ive heard it called the matchbox rockover which has stuck with me I like it

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#14 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:46:58 pm
What grade does Malc's One-Armer get these days? Has it had a repeat yet?

tomtom

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#15 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:51:08 pm

What grade does Malc's One-Armer get these days? Has it had a repeat yet?

1 Nibile.

:)

Ru

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#16 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 04:59:08 pm
What grade does Malc's One-Armer get these days? Has it had a repeat yet?

It does't get a grade, it's not a problem. And yes it has.

In fact none of the pinches wall problems should get grades. Or names. Bear Claw notwithstanding. And they especially should not be named after people that make them look easy or they should all be called "Andy Harris's problem". And they shouldn't be named after the 1st person to do them, or 90% will also be called "Andy Harris's problem".

Naming and grading pinches wall problems is taking an arbitrary sub-sport of a sub-sport of a sub-sport too seriously. And I've spent more of my life hanging onto this bit of rock than most. Except Andy Harris, obvs.

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#17 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 05:10:32 pm
Naming and grading pinches wall problems is taking an arbitrary sub-sport of a sub-sport of a sub-sport too seriously.
Or maybe getting upset about naming and grading pinches wall problems is taking an arbitrary sub-sport of a sub-sport of a sub-sport too seriously...  :lol:


Anyway, I've added all Andy's problems to pb, as well as the ukc problems that weren't already on there. I've called all Andy's problems "Andy's Problem".

Haydn, do you want to add yours? I have no idea what grades...

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/72-raven-tor/boulders/349-pinches-wall#.VGNw9MmrQqc

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#18 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 05:26:48 pm
What grade does Malc's One-Armer get these days? Has it had a repeat yet?

It does't get a grade, it's not a problem. And yes it has.

In fact none of the pinches wall problems should get grades. Or names. Bear Claw notwithstanding. And they especially should not be named after people that make them look easy or they should all be called "Andy Harris's problem". And they shouldn't be named after the 1st person to do them, or 90% will also be called "Andy Harris's problem".

Naming and grading pinches wall problems is taking an arbitrary sub-sport of a sub-sport of a sub-sport too seriously. And I've spent more of my life hanging onto this bit of rock than most. Except Andy Harris, obvs.
:bow:

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#19 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 05:30:56 pm
Retronaming problems because somebody makes it look easy? You must be on crack, unless you want a lot of "Dave's problem"s out there. Nothing on pinches wall that doesn't already have a guidebook name either needs one or should be given one.

Back on track - this classic:
LH1 RH1, RH6 (thumb only), LH8, RH 14 LH 14.

Obvs there's a harder version using 9 not 8, as per.
I was taking the p a little bit :P , but it's all true.

But I won't deny those who want to name and grade their fun.

Ru

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#20 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 10:12:19 pm

Or maybe getting upset about naming and grading pinches wall problems is taking an arbitrary sub-sport of a sub-sport of a sub-sport too seriously...  :lol:


Fair enough. I think naming and grading them will spoil the aesthetic. There's something unique about the pinches wall in that it is so arbitrary and so incredibly eliminately. All the problems overlap each other, use about 20 holds in total and only gain about 2ft in height. The other pleasing feature is that many of the problems are hard and you can spend a long time trying a problem that is special only because it is pleasing to climb, and not because it has any inherent other value. You can't even really tell anyone about doing it unless they are also a Pinches Wall devotee as it would mean nothing and sound stupid. Pinches Wall is at once amazing and awful, satisfying and almost totally pointless.

Once you name and grade the problems, and get a 'tick' or something to put in a logbook, or 8a.nu points or bragging rights or even just a way of being able to discuss the problems, that aesthetic is gone forever.

« Last Edit: November 13, 2014, 09:25:52 am by Ru »

haydn jones

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#21 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 10:59:14 pm
Rupert, pinches wall along with a few other select places (-10, toms roof) are the only true forms of climbing. anything else is just preparation for the "reel deel"! ;)

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#22 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 12, 2014, 11:51:17 pm
Amen.

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#23 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 13, 2014, 11:33:54 am

What grade does Malc's One-Armer get these days? Has it had a repeat yet?

1 Nibile.

:)

Only just seen this.
Cheers for the trust Tomtom, but as far as I remember, I didn't do it. And I bet I would remember it, as you all would, from the yelling!
I've been to the Tor only once with Dylan, and I just fondled the hold after failing on Ben's Roof. It was raining, I was tired, usual  :boohoo: excuses.
I hung the hold with my RIGHT arm though, and managed to get some kind of leverage and pull. But not a full one armer and definitely not on the left hand.

Cheers.

haydn jones

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#24 Re: Pinches wall - Raven tor
November 17, 2014, 10:13:01 pm
came up with a fantastic one tonight

FONT 7Cish

(L1, R1) R4, L9, R2, Feet A and B, R14, L14 (can be made easier for switching 9 for 8) not as hard as hard as bear claw but pretty tough

made a silly morpho problem too

Font 7B to impossible....ish
(L15, R15) L20, R11, L14, R14 (no feet above break I.E no heel hooking the start holds) I could just about reach and i'm 5ft 11

another satisfying one was

Font 7B+ish felt hard but had been climbing along time by this point so probably easier

(L15, R15) Lslots, R9, L14, R14



 

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