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Effort Yoof! (Read 65694 times)

Oldmanmatt

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#25 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 19, 2015, 08:56:55 pm

I started when I was 9, but I spent the first six years climbing mountain VDiffs in big boots. Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'
Sameish, but a year earlier.
But it was all big boots (Millets cheapest leather tanks) and Army surplus, until my late teens.
Loads of fingertip doorframe pull ups, mind and then a baptism of fire on routes like Eroica and Darkenbad.

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 10:01:05 am
Gutted I missed those important early years of tendon strengthening injuring.

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 10:01:32 am

andy_e

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#28 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 10:03:35 am
Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'

That's pretty much my attitude too...  ;)

galpinos

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#29 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 10:26:20 am
I started when I was 9, but I spent the first six years climbing mountain VDiffs in big boots. Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'

I used to look at the pictures in the guidebooks whilst sat in bed in Northampton and think, "wow, if I ever climb Great North Road I'll be a climbing god" (picture in the old blue Froggatt guide). Never even considered the extremes as viable, VS was the aspiration!

andy popp

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#30 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 11:02:18 am
After a couple of introductory V Diffs the next grade that I first experienced as a second rather than a leader was E3. Hardly conducive to fast progress.

andy popp

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#31 Re: Effort Yoof!
February 20, 2015, 11:34:49 am
And huge respect to Josh of course! Amazing.

jimpopeonarope

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#32 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 11, 2015, 07:27:04 am
Impressive stuff! Just read that Archie Ball who turned thirteen in January, just headpointed 'My Halo' E7 on the slate. Heres the link to the full article http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2015/04/my-halo-e7-6b-headpoint-by-13-year-old/

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#33 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 11, 2015, 07:52:24 am
Thir-fucking-teen.

abarro81

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#34 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 11, 2015, 08:03:53 am
Couple more 8as for Josh Ibbertson on his Easter holidays..

haydn jones

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#35 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 20, 2015, 10:30:29 pm
Angie Scarth-Johnson done welcome to tijuana 8c....she's 10...says she only trains 4 hours a week on 8a.shit but if you read what the mum says about the home bouldering wall and her "going on it when ever she's bored" I'm calling bullshit on the 4 hours. Anyway.... Effort yoof! !

Jaspersharpe

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#36 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 21, 2015, 03:58:24 pm
8c at 10?  :jaw:

petejh

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#37 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 21, 2015, 05:47:06 pm
I'm waiting for the first delivery on Era Vella

jimpopeonarope

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#38 Re: Effort Yoof!
April 24, 2015, 11:50:21 pm
Era Vella was climbed by Kai Lightner, 15 a few weeks ago. I think thats the youngest accent?

andy_e

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#39 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 15, 2015, 11:17:21 am
What with all this lauding over Moon's ascent of Rainshadow, probably worth pointing out that Josh Ibbertson did Raindogs recently!  :strongbench:

Luke Owens

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#40 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 08:58:59 am
Jim Pope has climbed Helvitia at Shipwreck Cove

https://twitter.com/jimpopeonarope/status/612679603472175104/photo/1

Duma

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#41 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 09:30:39 am
*helvetia*
/pedantry.

Doylo

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#42 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 10:08:03 am
I thought Dave Pickford had done the 2nd ascent. Could be wrong though. Also heard some holds have changed and might be 8b+ now?

abarro81

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#43 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 10:12:39 am
2 ways to do it by the sounds of it - one direct and the other with a little loop. No idea what Jim did.
 http://jordanbuysclimbing.tumblr.com/post/98717213754/two-trips-down-to-the-beautiful-south-saw-a-mix-of

standard

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#44 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 02:07:55 pm
UKC says holds have broken, so now 8b+
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=239406

jimpopeonarope

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#45 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 03:32:15 pm
I did it the direct way the same way Ben did the first ascent, a hold was removed leaving a bigger hold which made the crux easier but was soon filled back in and isnt there anymore. It probably is more like 8b+ than 8c but I havnt done enough of either grade to know what it is. Its a great route regardless of the grade.

Doylo

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#46 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 22, 2015, 07:50:03 pm
Good effort. If a hold got bigger on one of my routes I'd fill it in too.

Wood FT

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#47 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 23, 2015, 10:07:22 am
I did it the direct way the same way Ben did the first ascent, a hold was removed leaving a bigger hold which made the crux easier but was soon filled back in and isnt there anymore. It probably is more like 8b+ than 8c but I havnt done enough of either grade to know what it is. Its a great route regardless of the grade.

Nice work Jim, keep it up

fatneck

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#48 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 24, 2015, 07:50:07 pm

Nigel

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#49 Re: Effort Yoof!
June 24, 2015, 11:13:57 pm
Nice work Jim, keep it up

Said Captain Kirk's girlfriend.

 

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