[B0405413]

Hi all, where exactly does the right heel go on underhand? I can't get it to stick anywhere. I read another thread about it and some people said it goes next to your hand on the arete? Can't see where it would go. Ta very much.

[tomtom]

At about 19 secs on this video (I fluffed the last move!) made when I was working UH gives you an idea. There is no 'placement' for the heel - its smeared on the same face of rock where the slot your RH is in (the slot reached from the start). However, on the overlap above where you pop your heel is a notch - or inch sized break/change in size of the overlap. This I catch with my toe - and use it as a reference for the best place to keep the heel in. Its all in the compression of arms and (more importantly) legs..

NB - I use an unusual method (double heel) in the above vid which works really well for me...

[a dense loner]

I've never seen a man look so utterly defeated tomtom, surprised you had the presence of mind to keep standing upright. Brilliant

[DaveyDave]

My feet were too small to catch the toe notch, so I found there's a sharp little pebble 5 or so (maybe more, maybe less) inches away from the "good" right hand slot, once you stick it on right it doesn't come off.

[tomtom]

I've never seen a man look so utterly defeated tomtom, surprised you had the presence of mind to keep standing upright. Brilliant

:D I felt so strong on that attempt, I tried to static that last move - and ended up dabbing...
So its not just a disappointed look, its a 'why were you trying to be clever, when if you'd just tried normally it'd be fine!' look too...

:D

[peewee]

i find that the heel is best placed as high and close to your rh as possible then lh on a big edge in the roof and almost do a dropknee with this and it helps you apply more pressure to the heel.

[B0405413]

Brilliant thanks, I'll probably head up with a lamp tomorrow night and try it again. I'll let you know how I get on!

[peewee]

i find that the heel is best placed as high and close to your rh as possible then lf on a big edge in the roof and almost do a dropknee with this and it helps you apply more pressure to the heel.

This might help show it better

[surfchimpster]

Place your right heel high but not to high, The key to this problem is compression especially of the legs. Its very knacky this problem but then again you could easly flash it.
Your right heel stays on when you drop your left knee and pull / move your weight to the left then suddenly the heel feels more solid because you squezzing rather than the weight been vertically down on the right heel. This is the key.. Drop Knee move weight to left     then the heel comes into its own, hope that helps.

[nathanie1]

I must have tried it 50+ times before I slightly tweaked my beta and then the heel stuck three times in the row (I dabbed twice...).

For me, it was all about pointing my toes as far away from my knee as possible when placing the heel, so my right foot looked like a ballerina's, and focusing on keeping my toes pointed.

http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/ballerina-steve-williams.jpg

It actually felt disconcertingly easy when it stuck.

[tomtom]

Good when it works it works!

[B0405413]

I haven't actually been up to try it since I posted this! Cheers for the replies though especially that one about the ballerina heel; I can see how that would work. Can't wait to go and try it again when the rain's gone!

[nathanie1]

ballerina heel

I quite like that term.