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Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone (Read 2201 times)

Gallant

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Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone
October 21, 2014, 11:01:12 am
A group of us were looking at this a few weekends ago, and assumed what we had done was the correct problem, but having watched a video on peakbouldering, I'm now far less sure.

Does this climb solely the arete, or is it left hand on the arete and right more towards the main face? We initially tried just using the arete, but it felt desperate. Instead we resorted to dynoing left hand on the arete, right hand on a sort of jug in the middle of the face, and a right heel on, which was a pretty fun move. Unfortunately no video, and the man with a camera has decided to go to Cambodia for a while, so ropey descriptions are the best I can manage at present.

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone
October 21, 2014, 11:05:14 am
It was done originally and graded for dynoing straight up the arete.

Gallant

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#2 Re: Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone
October 21, 2014, 11:10:42 am
Any beta for doing in that way? It felt mega off balance trying to get feet up to set up for the dyno, let alone going for it. (Although I am terrible at gritty aretes / having a general sense of balance)

highrepute

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#3 Re: Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone
October 21, 2014, 12:10:20 pm


Tall person, short person and medium person from a sit-start (FA?   ;D) . Beta doesn't get much better than this.

Gallant

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#4 Re: Gibbon Swing - Turning Stone
October 21, 2014, 12:27:01 pm
Cheers for that. We were going left where your right goes, and right on the juggy crimp above the cracked line, with a heel in the break (bomber, feels like if you were to lob off you'd snap it, thankfully I didn't) or heel at the very top of the crack for the 6'3" member of us.

 

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