[Dolly]

[size=0pt]M Nothing[/size]
T Weights and core at the gym
[/size][size=0pt]W Nothing[/size][size=0pt]T Shed. Did loads[/size][size=0pt]F Nothing[/size][size=0pt]S Went to a HIT class at the gym which was 24 minutes long. How hard can that be ? Very. I still ache now and my arse muscles kill. It completely wiped me out and I’m not going again.[/size][size=0pt]S Anston. Finally did Nazgul, first try on the day – my foot just managed to stay on and then popped down to Duke’s Wall to do Dark Lady.[/size][size=0pt] [/size][size=0pt]If the weather is anything like then Norton and I are heading Westside to climb at Thorn Crag for the first time on Saturday. Looks like a brilliant crag.  Cheers for Beta on Monster Minds TT[/size]

[tomtom]

Bear in mind it might not be the right beta! (I'm probably using an illegal method ) Greg has a video (google it) that starts differently... But the way I did it is certainly fun..

I'd thoroughly recommend Mothership Reconnection... superb 7A+... my favourite of the place. For my next trick is good too...

[Dolly]

OK cheers
Not sure why the formatting is all strange in my post BTW

[kelvin]

OK cheers
Not sure why the formatting is all strange in my post BTW

Disguising the fact you went to HIIT class...

* totally nails till you get used to them. You really need to be able to squat like a power lifter.

[Fiend]

Edit: failed to break fonts.

[duncan]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

STG: two sessions fingerboarding or bouldering a week. Avoid tweaks. Arrange sport trips for New Year and March; anyone interested?
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland.

M -
T - Westway bouldering: 15 moves V2/3s - 1 minute on / 3 minutes off x 8 reps. Powering-out on last couple of reps = ‘AnCap’? Felt like I was doing something useful and pretty closely resembling a certain type of sport route.
W -
T - Started fingerboard session but tired and tweaky so called it off.
F - Short fingerboard session - ~3 minutes cumulative hang time.
S
S - Cheddar with Mike Highbury and csl. Warmed up then had two good sessions working Still Waters Run Deep. Felt a bit stronger than 4 weeks ago, or possibly just a little more familiar. Spent some time on the final section which I didn’t really get to grips with before and seems highly fluffable (6b to the top. You’re havin’ a laugh mate!). I now have plausible sequences for all the climbing but can’t take a hand off to clip in the middle of meaty bit. Could be exciting! Not sure what my tactics are now. I don’t have the capacity to both work it properly and have a good red-point attempt on the same day. Do I practice more or just go for it?

Reasonable week considering I am getting over a cold. Long day and exciting drive home seems to have exacerbated it again, still feeling battered today and coughing like I’ve got TB. As my long-suffering belayer pointed out, coldly, after my second session, I’d been on the route for 50 minutes. This is longer than I usually spend bouldering on plastic. I’m still new to RPing and need to think about my tactics.

Plan: easy week to recover from cold. One more fingerboarding session then back to AeroCap and AnCap next week.

[shark]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

He's yet to embrace the siege

[T_B]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

He's yet to embrace the siege

Thanks Duncan.

I could embrace the siege, but it doesn't fit so well with current lifestyle, so quick redpoints are more motivating. I would be nice to do a proper 8b. Maybe next year

[nik at work]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

Nice one Tom. But like Duncan I had in my mind that you would have done 8b/+ previously. Hey ho anyway bon effort.

[tommytwotone]

STG/LTG: Boulder Font 7b


S: Took Una to The Depot and she happily sat around while I climbed a bit and campused for a couple of hours - taking that as a victory!
S: Having not sorted as pass was pissed as weather was primo, but then gold told it'd be fine to head out! Grabbed stuff and shot out to Almscliff and had a potter about. Was rammed with Leeds Uni Climbing Club punters so not the greatest atmosphere where I wanted to climb so moved up to DWR area. Got spanked on DWR itself so just soloed for a bit and then headed home.
M: Nowt, rushing around last-minute sorting things out for business trip to Bulgaria. Bed at 11pm.
T: 2am start, off to Manchester airport for 7am flight...then 3hr delay! Flew to Sofia, meetings all afternoon and then out for the evening for dinner and drinks afterwards with the company we'd seen during the day.
W: Alarm went off at 7am Sofia time, i.e. 5am UK time. Meetings all day long, then out again in evening for dinner and drinks with another company.
T: Bit of a lie-in, followed by flight back to Manchester and then a scary drive back along M62 in driving rain.
F: Nowt - back at work but shattered and catching up. Looking after Una in the evening.
S: Fiona feeling ill so spent all day looking after Una.
S: "Major Series" race in Leeds. 10k, cross-country - and a load of obstacles such as crawling through boggy quagmire, climbing over walls and wading through a neck-deep, freezing cold lake. Only really did it as the rest of the new dads in the NCT group wanted to, but found it quite enjoyable if a lot tougher than I'd expected!


Not a great deal of progress this week, really just trying to keep things ticking over. Midweek trip to Sofia was interesting, but not exactly great for fitness!

[duncan]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

Nice one Tom. But like Duncan I had in my mind that you would have done 8b/+ previously. Hey ho anyway bon effort.

He's also one of those pesky JB-approved all-rounders.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest (Massive DOMS from 5 days on)
 
T: Rest (Massive DOMS from 5 days on)
 
W: Got to The Diamond mega early 8:30am with Alex to find the 11:15am high tide was already high! Seems it was a full moon...frustrating, as I wanted to bolt a new line.

Instead, took advantage of the new NW Lime guide and went into the atmospheric Dutchman's Zawn. Requires an ab in and hanging belay above the sea, awesome! The 2 best routes were wet but managed to onsight Orca (6c+), great experiance!
 
Had a quick few goes on some 6c+ on the upper drive that was complete rubbish.
 
T: Work Gym Session:
 15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
 3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
 3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
 3 x 10 Upright Shoulder Rotation (5kg)
 
Repeaters
 Open Hand 30mm Incut Edge (6sec on 4sec off) x 6
 Half Crimp 20mm Incut Edge (4sec on 6sec off) x 6
 The above 3 times with 3 min rest between sets.
 
I can't half crimp properly on the 30mm edge, feels easier on the smaller hold.
 
Strange lack of endurance when using half crimp compared to open hand. Crimping is my definite strength outdoors and I rarely open hand holds. I can max hang roughly the same with both grips when doing weighted hangs. Anyone else have this distinct difference in endurance between these two grip types?

F: Had some time to myself for an hour so nipped to the Monument Boulders and did some easy bouldering, plenty of elimates and dynamic moves... In the rain for most of it!
 
S: Took the little one to Alton Towers (Cbeebies Land) for his 2nd Birthday. He was psyched to say the least!
 
S: Spent most of the day doing house stuff but managed to get to Llanymynech Quarry to have one quick onsight go on The Ancient Mariner (7a+). All was going well until I clipped a bolt that was way out to the left before the crux about 25m up. Got near the end of the crux and rope drag pulled me off. Tried to carry on afterwards but the rope drag was too much so had to leave a krab behind. Feel a bit robbed but should be easy next time.

[Matt002]

Strange lack of endurance when using half crimp compared to open hand. Crimping is my definite strength outdoors and I rarely open hand holds. I can max hang roughly the same with both grips when doing weighted hangs. Anyone else have this distinct difference in endurance between these two grip types?

I drop back into open hand when I fail on a set using half crimp.  I can usually struggle through open hand until the end of the set although I consider the set a fail.
I find it takes more strength to hold the half crimp position, if you use the same weight for both hangs, this might be why you have less strength endurance in the half crimp.

[shark]

1st RP of my hardest sport route (get's 8a+/8b on one guide, but I think 8a+ for me).

Well done. I can’t belive you’ve not RPed harder. I guess you’re not 9 stone and all forearms.

Nice one Tom. But like Duncan I had in my mind that you would have done 8b/+ previously. Hey ho anyway bon effort.

He's also one of those pesky JB-approved all-rounders.

What, good at the Plantation as well as Burbage West ?

[Sasquatch]

Repeaters
 Open Hand 30mm Incut Edge (6sec on 4sec off) x 6
 Half Crimp 20mm Incut Edge (4sec on 6sec off) x 6
 The above 3 times with 3 min rest between sets.
 
I can't half crimp properly on the 30mm edge, feels easier on the smaller hold.
 
Strange lack of endurance when using half crimp compared to open hand. Crimping is my definite strength outdoors and I rarely open hand holds. I can max hang roughly the same with both grips when doing weighted hangs. Anyone else have this distinct difference in endurance between these two grip types?

No, but the smaller hold cuold do it

[nik at work]

S - Further inspired by Lore's efforts...

Any thoughts I had of being content with my week are now gone. Beast.

Cheers Kelvin. Although I hope your contentment has returned, we're all playing our own silly game for nobody else's benefit. A good week is a good week, nice one.

[AJM]

Spent some time on the final section which I didn’t really get to grips with before and seems highly fluffable (6b to the top. You’re havin’ a laugh mate!). I now have plausible sequences for all the climbing but can’t take a hand off to clip in the middle of meaty bit. Could be exciting! Not sure what my tactics are now. I don’t have the capacity to both work it properly and have a good red-point attempt on the same day. Do I practice more or just go for it?

I can't remember much about my sequence for the top, but I wasn't intending to joke around about the grade. It's easier than some of the little 6bs on the roadside higher up.

From the undercut rest I remember some moves with a long foot reach out to a foothold near the lip. Work up a bit and then there are holds out on the right of the groove, little edges from memory. I remember getting a toe on the sloper above the undercut to pull me rightwards at some point too. You mainly climb to the right of the groove, straight up to the roof where the tatty fixed wire is, and then go hard left using the undercuts in the roof.

Which clip?

My guess would be that if you haven't got a good sequence for the top and can't make one of the clips it's probably a better use of energy to work those a bit more first before starting redpointing but it's down to how you feel about it really.

[205Chris]

S. Nice day. Slogged up to Simonside. John nearly stepped on a large male adder. Joined unexpectedly by Chris205 who waas on way to Torridon with his mate Andy. I failed to do a 6C and joined in on Dulcinea 7A+ with everyone else. Jon did it turned his ankle with an unexpected dismount high up. Everyone else did it too except me.

Unfortunately I think Jon invalidated his ascent on the technicality of 'falling off the topout'. Hope he's OK, I've got footage of the fall on my camera, looked nasty 

Unlucky you didn't tick it Simon, you were looking good on it before we left, hopefully you didn't get too wet on the walk out.