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Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos? (Read 3436 times)

Ally Smith

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Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 13, 2014, 01:59:40 pm
Finally got round to...

...following the herd, down to Greece, on holiday...

And would like to delve the combined UKB knowledge for high quality on-sight targets in the 7c-8a range.?

Tufa is the preferred medium, with an absence of middle two pockets for the left hand (almost healed ring finger/don't want to risk it)

Finally, have any folk climbed O'Draconian Devil, 8b. Is it worthwhile as a (hopefully quick) holiday redpoint objective?

petejh

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#1 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 13, 2014, 04:06:22 pm
 :spank:Can't help with routes [vested interest]but I recommend you get the very fine shiny new Kalymnos Guide app released by Steve Golley / TheSend last week. Up to date with all the new routes.[/vested interest]   :thumbsup:
 http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24868.msg462369/boardseen.html#new

bendavison

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#2 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 13, 2014, 06:32:06 pm
Odyssey: Marcy Mark 7c+, Sirene 7c, Orion 7c+ definitely others too...
The usual suspects at grand grotte, but the grades are ego friendly to say the least! Aegialis seemed fair though. Fun de Chicunne is pretty OSable, especially if you've done the others to get used to the style. And punto carmelo 8a+ is really good and worth an OS bash.

Everything at Jurassic Park.

At Arhi: Angelica 8a (maybe hard for OS but good), Ne pas touche a ma bite 8a+ (or there's an easier finish at 7c or something), OSable 8a on the left I think too.

Sikati cave is OS heaven. Worth the scoot once or twice. Morgan Adam 7c+(apparently the really long 8b extension just adds distance not much difficulty), Super Lolita, again the same kind of thing. Little bulbos, 7c+.

Worth going to Telendos too. Amoros Perros is a world class 7c+, and if its not too humid the 30m black 45 degree board is just round the corner. Pretty sure there's some good stuff in that range too. I can't remember its name though...

I haven't tried ODD.

Ally Smith

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#3 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 13, 2014, 07:14:22 pm
Cheers Ben.

Some recommendations i've not heard of before; i'd best get the app and start searching for them!

TobyD

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#4 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 13, 2014, 11:24:54 pm


And would like to delve the combined UKB knowledge for high quality on-sight targets in the 7c-8a range.?



Zawi Nul syndicate 7c+ is great and not too bad to OS. Aegialis is fun, the other 7c in the grotte i thought was nowhere near as good. sikati cave, i agree, is amazing. daniboy is well pockety, i'd steer clear. marki mark - another vote for its quality.

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#5 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 15, 2014, 09:47:19 am
The grande grotte ones are all ok.  Aegialis felt like 7c to me but the others felt easier.  The 7c+ one felt more like 7b+ I seem to remember.

Marky Mark is great, 7c if you are tallish. 

Agelica is probably not the easiest onsight but not too bad.

At spartacus, spartcus maximus is a complete joke at 7c.  7b to hands of rest to 7a or something.  Daniboy felt like proper 8a, but not good if you're trying to avoid small holds (although to be honest they aren't that bad, just by kalymnos standards.

The grades out there, I thought, really bared no resemblance at all to anywhere else I've been.  I was regularly onsighting 3 or 4 7c/7c+ per day, at a time when in other places I was pleased with a single 7c onsight in a trip.  Be honest with yourself and knock a grade or 2 off everything.  Brilliant climbing mind.

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#6 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 17, 2014, 10:51:35 am
Can't help with recommendations either, but you could ask this lot



(Gerhard, Yuji, Jibé, Patxi, Ben & Boone)

Obviously the first question should be related to the team lycra.  :clap2:

Sasquatch

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#7 Re: Chuffing recommendations on Kalymnos?
October 17, 2014, 04:59:10 pm
Are those knee pads sewn into the lycra sticky rubber?  Where can I order some :)

 

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