[fried]

STG - 10 pull ups

Monday - Excellent, I'm not working and wake up ready to go to Apremonts envers to do a high old-skool yellow circuit as an easy climbing day. The forecast is looking good, except when I open my curtains it's raining. Go indoors, 20 mins in and my right arm is throbbing, 3 days climbing in 4 is too much for me. Will I ever learn?

Tues/ Wed - Rest

Thursday - Indoor, fine, no aches, finger O.K and did some pockety stuff, finger still O.K.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - I could go to the forest today, but the forecast is looking even better for tomorrow. Do 6 pull-ups, then do 7. I am the lord.
Sunday - Open my curtains, it's raining. Go indoors in a bad mood, can't get motivated but still beat my high point on a couple of crimpy, pockety overhanging problems.

[kelvin]

Cheers fried... and no. None of us ever learn 

Mon - Active rest
Tue - Boulders. Much better, felt okay on crimps. Also, Ancap - FOC (foot on campusing) 10 sets of 20 moves on medium campus rail.
Wed - Yoga. First class session. Ommmmmmmm. Boulder. Aerocap 13 min.
Thu - Tweaked finger! Argh. Routes. 4x4s on f5+.
Fri - Active rest
Sat - Boulder 101 problems in the V0-2 range. Done as 10 sets, climbed down everytime and then rested till a total of 20min was up. Then onto the next set.
Sun - Active rest.

Not sure what I trained yesterday - too much for ancap? Felt powered out at the end of each set but much worse if I finished on an overhanging panel. Not managed a V3 this set, so doing the odd V2 was right on my limit. Dunno, but it should help big days out.

Need to tweak the foot on campusing I think, up to 28 moves (45sec) and maybe drop to the smallest campus rails for the first sets. Felt silly easy compared to trying to do 5min solid before a rest. Always been a bit confused by base training tho and that's what aerocap and ancap are I guess.

Also did a load of other stuff like pressups, curls etc - 500 or so over the week. Yoga was a interesting, managed okay as it seems I've been trying to hard at home. Booked the next 5 weeks.

Still gotta get the fingerboard up... but the newly tweaked finger will stop play on that anyway.

[mindfull]

Upped intensity and frequency of my training. Probably not the most effective scheme, but I really enjoy training at the moment, so trying to do as much as possible. Still not much chance to go to the climbing gym, but that should change in the next weeks, so bodyweight/weight trainings will be less and gym session should go up.

MO:
- Running: 6K tempo run.
- Stretching
- Strength(bodyweight): planks/pullups/pushups/dips
- Strength(weights): biceps/triceps/shoulder/wrist/chest/squats

TU:
- Stretching
- PowerEndurance(bodyweight): planks/pullups/pushups/dips
- PowerEndurance(weights): biceps/triceps/shoulder/wrist/chest/squats

WE:
- Running: 10K Slow Distance Run
- Stretching
- Strength(bodyweight): Same as monday
- Strength(weight): Same as monday + bench press
- Tai Chi

TH:
- Stretching
- Strength(bodyweight) : Same as monday and wednesday + Abroller
- Strength(weight): same as wednesday

FR:
- Running: 5K high tempo run (tried to approach my best time from 20 years ago as close as possible, 1:30 slower)
- Stretching
- PE(bodyweight): Same as tuesday + Abroller + Leg raises
- PE(weights): Same as tuesday + bench press

SA:
REST

SU: Climbing gym
10 boulder problems up to 6B.
First campus session in over a year. Better than expected but understandebly nothing compared to what I was able once. Try to do one session a week for 6 weeks and measure my gains.

[Dolly]

Right I'm back in
M Pilates
T Furnace board at the Foundry. Tried hard for 45 mins until I couldnt hold on
W 26th Wedding anniversary. Curry and booze
T Shed with Norton. Good sess and did a project
F Kettlebells
S Run around the park. Lovely but ached afterwards
S Anston. Autumn is probably my favourite time of year and it was lovely climbing there with the falling leaves and the bombardment of beech nuts. Hit the twin pockets at the end of Nazgul about 5 times but just couldnt hold the swing. Played on Frodo but feel like I need a spot for the move to the top. Went to Dukes Wall but I was battered by then.   

[Muenchener]

M:
T: Mental training: scary roller coaster rides @ Oktoberfest with M jnr
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering.
T:
F: Public holiday (Reunification Day) but all prospective partners are away for the entire long weekend and I only have today free. Conclusion: humans too much hassle, purchased microtraxion.
Went to Konstein and tried (without microtraxion) a boulder project on which the start seemed ridiculous last year. It still does. Then got on a rather nice-looking 7b+ route that I have in mind as a long term project. This time with microtraxion (etc). I used to be quite happy with shunting routes back in the day, but now I find I'm lacking recent experience and confidence with the process, so the whole thing was at least as much general ropework and prusiking practice as actually working the route. Still, only a couple of the moves seem completely implausible, and at least I made the effort to get outside instead of going and moping at the wall on a sunny day. yyfy

S: Weighted pullups 4x3 x +11kg, TGUs 4x1 per side x 20kg. Knee physio & core.

S: Inspired by Friday's adventures and this thread on Mountain Project, took M jnr to the park for some prusiking and hauling practice on the climbing frame. He enjoyed prusiking. I could haul him easily on a 3:1, he couldn't haul me. If I ever manage to get myself into a situation where I need to be hauled by an eleven year old child, I'm probably f*cked anyway.
Beastmaker 10 sets

[nik at work]

STG - Trad project, all ready to go really but weather might have fucked me...
MTG - Margalef, but only 3 weeks away now so getting in to STG territory...
LTG - Cave projects

M - Went to trad project in the chasms, it was clagged out and wet but wanted to check out gear option for the now defunct rp placement. The broken placement had exposed a small hole which with now takes a home made hand placed 6mm "glue-in bolt" (obviously not glued in as it's hand placed). 6mm is pretty skinny for a bolt (I don't think I'd be that impressed if I saw it on a sport route) and the shaft is only an inch long but it's better than the rp was. Couldn't climb on the project wall so went to the training traverse and did that half a dozen times (it's about 7b/+) then made up some boulder problem sequences for it. Not a bad session but frustrating conditions stopping me doing what I actually wanted.
T - BM session with +20kg. Felt pretty steady, although the mono's felt like hard work. Then did ring finger and index finger mono's with no added weight and a few leg raise-ey/front lever-ey ntype things. Then obviously I look down and see the 15kg plate next to the 20kg plate... I wonder...
Strap them both to the harness and "I'll just see if I can do any pull-ups...". Manage to do my usual two sets of 10 (hands facing forwards and hands facing backwards) so decide to carry on and do my usual set of hangs. Manage all the hangs but don't try the mono's. Glad I don't weight 95kg...
W - BM session with +35kg, drop down to +20kg for the middle finger mono's and no added weight for index and ring finger.
T - Supposed to be nothing but by happenstace I was up in Douglas in the evening and managed to get half an hour to pop into the climbing wall. Did the current round of the boulder league flashing 13 of the 15 problems and getting the last 2 in two attempts each. Was in the building for 25 minutes, smash and grab...
F - Nuffink
S - Had a small window so went to the project, it should have been wet after the downpour through Friday night but was actually sort of dry-ish. Had a quick shunt then dashed home.
S - Large meal at lunch, bleurgh...

The weather has turned cooler (good) and wetter (bad) which may well lead to frustration on the project front. Margalef is getting very close now. I think +35kg is probably too much for the smaller holds but I'll maybe stick with it for the larger ones. The only other plate I have is another 20kg, 55kg pullups might be an interesting experiment... Anyway reasonably happy with things right now, hopefully get a decent amount in the next two and a half weeks then a couple of days of rest (or more climbing...)

[csl]

Sept Goals
Book October Spain Trip - done
Stick to training plan - done this week
RP Tennessee - this didnt happen
More trad - more E3-5 - a couple of e3s, so done.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Bouldering, 60 Problems v3-6
Wed - rest
Thu - AeroPow + Pullups + Core
Fri - AnCap + Continuity
Sat - Rest
Sun - Cheddar.
Onsighted Shakin' like a leaf - 7a to warm up. Then did Still Waters - 7b first go today putting the clips in, felt a lot easier than a couple of weeks ago. Faffed for a while then went to try Get That Man - 7a, fell off the onsight and dogged to top. Awesome route to do next time though. Did some 6b slab to finish. Good day out considering i only got 3 hours sleep!

October Goals
10 7's in Spain
Onsight 7b+ in Spain
Stick to training plan
Find a UK project for the winter - 7c/7c+ ish.

[Sasquatch]

New STG/MTG - Longest standing rock project in AK (that I know of) - probably around 8c/8c+ short sport route, and 8A+/8B boulder project in Chickaloon.
LTG - Mandala in November

Weight - 164lbs

M - Stretch
T - FB-MAW, levers, abs
W - FB-repeaters
Th - stretch
F - Quick late evening go at the project.  total and abject failure.  In total there are 15 moves.  I was able to do all but three, and two of those I've done before and know aren't really that bad.  I came close on the main one though and figured out good beta.  We'll see better how the next day goes.  The most I could link together was the first 5.  Then it was move by move for a bit.  Conditions were greasy, but it felt insanely hard.  Probably a v5 to a v12 to a v8/9, with no real shakes or anything.
S - Easy bouldering
S - FB MAW, levers, abs

[Ti_pin_man]

He shoots - - he scores!!!!!

Its been a while since I posted as me and the mrs had twins 4 months ago.  Its been a crazy time but all are fit and well and I only got back to serious training 3 weeks ago.  Before that I managed the odd climb but once a week... I was trying to keep my hand in.  The home woody got used and also the local wall when I could. 

My original aim was STG of a F7a.  I had decided to stop chatting and being a social climber and get down to business of improving.  I had thought moving to 7a would be quite easy, just a bit of effort and get there but it wasn't.  The great news is that on Saturday I did a plastic indoor F7a.  I did the route and then wondered back to the wall chart expecting a F6b or c but it was a F7a.  Wahooooooooo.... 

So, I have a new aim, to bag a few more, sticking with the plan I have currently that got me here seems a good idea.  Bring it on. 

[kelvin]

Its been a while since I posted

And what a way to re-enter! Twins will definitely alter things, congratulations  and nice work on the 7a. Progress is progress, indoors or out and always something to be chuffed with.

Interesting you mention about being a social climber. I've decided pretty much the same thing, quit chatting and stick to the plan. That meant a 100 problems on Saturday, rather than maybe 40 at best.

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers.

2014 goals- 20 13 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering. Another E-point this week.

LTG- 8a sport.

M- Rest.

T- Rest.

W- Black Rocks. Not great conditions, largely there to check out some filming angles. Did a bit of soloing though- the traverse of the block under Gaia is becoming a bit of a training laps tool now.

T- Notts Depot. Did the 6c circuit board route first go then did some bouldering. Pleased with how well I'm climbing again now.

F- Rest.

S- Rest.

S- Burbage North. Some fun trad- nice conditions for it.

Climbing well and feeling confident this week. 

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7 and more development.
MTG: DWS project.
LTG: V11

M: North Black near Canberra. Mileage on easy stuff and repeating.
3 x V1 (all flashed), 4 x V2 (all flashed), 3 x V3(1 flashed, 2 retro), 2 x V4 (1 flash, 1 retro), retro-flash a V5. Warm but fun day. Drove home after.
T: Long ride. 35 degrees, full leathers, bad idea. Fun though.
W:
T:
F: Drove to North Black after work for bouldering festival.
S: 630 wake up..... Set up rope on some highballs with a mate, he worked them on rope while I got lots of pads. I then started working them ground up. Have not seen highball ascents, only top rope. One is V6ish, the other V7 and both 7m high. Also warmed up on a V3 and V4. Different sector did V0, V2, V3 & V4.
Proceeded to get very drunk while others won prizes. Pull up comp on crimps (Dan Fisher easily won...), team pad stacking and timed sandbagged slab climbing comp... Bed maybe 3am, I don't remember... Too drunk.
S: Sloooooow start. Cleaned and put up 2 new problems (V0 & V1), did a V1, worked a V5. Really strange moves. Just couldn't get it. Fun though. Also cleaned and worked a new prob, 5m high, layback seam into a big move for slopey top. V6ish. Very height dependent, mate has 2cm more reach than me and could do all bar the last big move. Very cool problem. Drove home late.

[shark]

Congrats on the twins Ti_Pin_Man. Quite a handful I imagine.

Nik - I'm amazed you can do consecutive days of weighted BM sessions (and then go and smash a bouldering circuit). Lopez recommends more than 24hrs rest after to capitalise on the gains - although you have phenomenal finger strength anyway.

11.8-9

M. Day, Systems board PE/Fingery Endurance session Eve. 45 min jog round the suburbs
T.
W. AM. Tommy had an inset day. He suggested Rubicon. Spent most of the time trying to link the the three traverses
T.
F. AM Kilnsey for first time in many years with Paul Reeve. Bit warm and greasy. Warmed up on Directissima and half of Fifty for Five. Then fell off on Highway365 (6c+) then redpointed it. Went on Biological Need which spanked me in the past. No change there. Got very angry and stripped it. Managed to onsight Alternative Extra Option 7a+ at end of the day. I say onsight but I may have done it or a variation over 10-20 years ago I always find it hard at Kilnsey. The hold type (bit slopey) and steepness dont suit me so I have tended to avoid it.
S. DIY
S. Noon. Tom suggested Curbar. Lovely day - too warm for grit really. Failed on Trackside and Strawberries and had a play on Gorilla Warfare 

Getting fitter. Still heavy. Malham tomorrow with team Wad and maybe Northumberland at the weekend

[Ti_pin_man]

thanks kelvin and shark.   

yes my life has altered somewhat in the last four months... Winston Churchill said that if you walk into hell... keep walking.  I'm still walking.  I love my girls but JEEEzus H Christ.  Wow.   

[duncan]

Its been a while since I posted as me and the mrs had twins 4 months ago. ...  I had decided to stop chatting and being a social climber and get down to business of improving.

Well done. Parenthood definitely encouraged me to focus more on my training and I've climbed a lot better since (just the one offspring mind, twins are a whole other game I'm guessing). A home training set-up - even just a fingerboard and some weights - is really helpful.

nik...    I guess steelfingers don’t happen by accident.


73.5kg.

STG: two sessions fingerboarding or bouldering a week. Lose 2kg. Don't get injured.
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland.

Achieving the STG of regular strength training. Weight has stabilised / come down slightly. 

Last two weeks: 3 fingerboard sessions, one session bouldering, then Manflu’.

Plan: 2 weeks more of fingerboard work. I’m quite getting into this (why on earth didn’t I start 20 years ago?) then back to AeroCap and AnCap.

[Matt002]

STG: Indoor 6B+ project and Send a V5 at boulder central Done
MTG: start new strength phase based at home as new baby arrving will mean the end of gym sessions for a while
LTG: get stronger and then try training for sport climbing

M lunch time indoor bouldering short session tried 6B+ project, still last move to stick.
T  Rest
W Indoor bouldering sent a 6B+ dyno problem and did some easy top rope routes with a friend.
T Rest
F Rest
S Went boulder central, sent a V5 here for the first time, Short term goal Tick.
S Rest Set up an outdoor pull up bar with gym rings and made a pinch training tool (a engineering brick with weights hanging off it) 

Felt strong, light and rested for each session.  Have my setup ready for starting a new strength phase soon (as soon as baby arrives) and some variations and new exercises for this training.  Going to switch to 5sec hang 10 sec rest for repeaters and add some pinch training and arm strength exercises this time.

[Luke Owens]

I've had major DOMS all over since the end of last week, had one rest day. Steep board session has killed me but must mean it's a massive weakness. For the record this morning I have DOM's in my Forearms, Biceps, Delts, Traps, Lower Back, Arse, Quads and Hams...!
 
Without realising, I've had 5 days "on", I'm a broken man this morning. Had to fight hard to climb at Malham on Saturday as I knew I'd get cramp/powered out even before I started climbing that day due to tight forearms. Trying to use a tennis ball to massage but making no difference so far.
 
M: Work Gym:
10 Wide Grip Pull Ups
4 x 10 Off-Set Pull Ups
 
2 x 10 Upright Shoulder Rotation
2 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises
2 x 10 Hanging Knee Raises with Twist
4 x 1min Side Plank (Alternating Sides)
 
T: Rest/Had a internal job interview in work. (Called me on Thursday to say I got the job!)
 
W: Work Gym:
10 Wide Grip Pull Ups
6 x 5 Off-Set Pull Ups (Rope Knot Approx. 2ft below bar)
 
3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Upright Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 20 Gym Ball Single Leg Raises
3 x 20 Gym Ball Crunches
3 x 20 Push Ups with feet on Gym Ball
3 x 10 Hanging Knee Raises with Twist
 
T: Oswestry Indoor Bouldering:
Warmed up for half an hour doing loads of V0 - V3
 
Flashed a few V4/5's and then spent half an hour on the woody.
 
Finished off with 20 mins Aerocap.
 
F: Short session at Pantymwyn, worked moves on July Rain (7A), damp slot meant no progress. Tried Under the Gate (6C) with no beta. Came close but turns out I was making it harder than it should be. Addressing the steepness weakness on that one too.
 
S: Malham with Ally. First time there, inspiring watching people try 8b - 8c+'s! Warmed up on a 6a+ then had a flash go on Rose Coronary (7a), came off mid crux. Fell off on the jug next go then did it 2nd redpoint. Had to fight due aching muscles and tight forearms...
 
Once I'd reached the chains I couldn't actually make a fist or lift my arms above my head. Ally suggested that it's not normal and possibly a nerve/neck related problem...
 
S: The Diamond - Tried a seldom repeated 7b/+ (Diamond Geezer) on the right hand side. It had an impossible (at the grade) move low down then a long section on suspect looking stuck on holds. Got sacked after 2 goes up it and stripped it. Not the quality of it's neighbouring routes.

[Doylo]

What does Under the Gate do?

[Sasquatch]

I've had major DOMS all over since the end of last week, had one rest day. Steep board session has killed me but must mean it's a massive weakness. For the record this morning I have DOM's in my Forearms, Biceps, Delts, Traps, Lower Back, Arse, Quads and Hams...!
 
Without realising, I've had 5 days "on", I'm a broken man this morning. Had to fight hard to climb at Malham on Saturday as I knew I'd get cramp/powered out even before I started climbing that day due to tight forearms. Trying to use a tennis ball to massage but making no difference so far.
 

Seriously overdoing it.  Remember that its the rest period when you actually get stronger.  Without resting you are just digging a deeper and deeper hole to get out of.  If you push to far you'll end up with all sorts of overuse issues. 

[kelvin]

You will have heard it before Luke - but if you're training properly... resting is training.

[tomtom]

Some good positive posts above... good stuff...Busy week of work - eating out too often and not enough exercise...

M:

T: Day in NL...

W: Managed to escape in the afternoon to Almscliff. Got there about 3:30 - felt so unmotiveated. Kind of warmed up - then wished the showers I'd drive through would come this way and rain me off.. got pissed off with hipster tourist types (must be Students ) who were 'playing on the rocks man' and went and hid in the underhand cave.. Felt crap there, but warmed up a bit.. Demon wall roofed for a bit - and failed (twice) on crux low traverse. Horrors! Its interesting, ALmscliff is my climbing benchmark and whilst I was climbing shit, I was strong... climbing in a slightly different way.. odd things like my foot staying on DWR when slappign up for the break (that has never happened) - and much more power on the crucifix arete (sans break)... anyway, my mood improved a little and I had a fun 30 min working out how to do the 7A+ traverse down at the teaspoon cave.. should hopefully go next time.. I think tall Jacob was there as I left - think he was soling western front/wall of horrors in the evening light. Nice.

T: F*cking work...

F: ditto.

Sa: Rain. Bastard rain. Went to Logport wall for an hour. Didnt want to do more as i wanted to get out on Sunday. Gutted to read on the conditions thread that the Tor was in... bah.

Su: Are you sensing a little negativity in my post so far... well, there was much to-ing and fro-ing about where to go Sunday.. Sandstone would be wet, limestone maybe iffy... some fast drying grit would be perfect. But I suspect every man, woman and baby buggy would be out at Plantation and the other Peak honey spots so... I went to Widdop.

I love Widdop. Despite the fact I followed the worst slow driver in the world over the twisty bits from Burnerley all the way there - who nearly managed to take out three cyclists on the way (I kid you not) and had to do an emergency stop in the middle of the road whilst trying to overtake one... I love Widdop... anyway... pottered up - warmed up on some slabby stuff, pottered up the shothole wall thingy - had a little scarpa vs 5:10 trial. OK - I'm completely undecided whether or not 5:10 rubber is better than Scarpa on grit.. Sometimes it is sometimes it isnt.. I digress.. Nearly got splashdown arete first time but forgot to hang on. It then took another 4 or 5 attempts. Then did it facing left and facing right to make myself feel superior..

But I really wanted to go on Fight on Black (FOB)... and I did. Last time I visited I got nowhere - got my right foot up and started to rock over but was - meh. This time got there quite quickly - and started slapping up for the RH slap/nubbin thingy.. quickly realised that left foot placement helped alot and on one go managed to slap for the top hold. Except I used my RH - where left would have made much more sense (having watched videos since..). Anway - had to give up as my LH was screaming at me from hooking the large pebble so much.. This is probably really dull to read if you dont know the problem... but it is a cool problem - and I suspect it will go soon (on a cold day..).

Anyway, I need to do some nipple hangs to get strong for this (thats a new exercise for you Nibs!) :D

There was a good scene up there - chatted to a few folks, wore off some more skin on some easier stuff and went home happy. No bad drivers on the way home

[nik at work]

Nik - I'm amazed you can do consecutive days of weighted BM sessions (and then go and smash a bouldering circuit). Lopez recommends more than 24hrs rest after to capitalise on the gains - although you have phenomenal finger strength anyway.

Lopez Schmopez...
I think phenomenal finger strength is probably an exageration (but don't let me stop you...)
Anyway it's worth noting the following:
1 The weighted sessions are very short. I generally do them once the kids are in bed while I'm cooking the pasta/rice for tea so you're talking less than 20 mins.
2 The bouldering was on the whole very steady, 'tis the nature of the wall and it's clientelle.
3 I don't do much other climbing, a couple of quick sessions here and there but it's all short little bursts rather than full days out so I get a decent amount of recovery time.
4 Whilst +35kg is pretty tough it's probably not right at the limit, I'm doing hangs on holds that I have previously done one-armers on. I'd guess that +35kg would pretty much max me out on the mono's but I also don't want to risk exploding tendons three weeks before a trip...
5 I won't keep this up for long, a few weeks of burn then ease off and do some proper climbing. Although the winter months are making that tricky so might have to come up with a more sustainable BM strategy.
6 I probably do have reasonably strong fingers, but that is compensated for by my woeful stamina and flexibility. Rather than addressing these inadequacies I have arranged a trip to a venue that probably plays to my strengths (which is doubtless a bad long term strategy, but I'm getting old so who wants to think long term?)

Also, on a slightly more serious note than Lopez Schmopez, I'd say that the "facts" of developing climbing strength are at a pretty plastic stage in their development. There is almost as many opinions as people, and most peoples opinion is based on what worked for them. Which may or may not work for you (or me) and in fact may or may not have worked "best" for them. I think it's Randall who often says something along the lines of:
You can spend a lot of time planning training and doing nothing, or just do something...

Right now slinging metal plates between my legs and hanging from a piece of wood in the kitchen has me syked and the wife amused. Next week it'll all be different and I'll be back in the gimp suit...

[Luke Owens]

Seriously overdoing it.  Remember that its the rest period when you actually get stronger.  Without resting you are just digging a deeper and deeper hole to get out of.  If you push to far you'll end up with all sorts of overuse issues.

Yeah, I thought so, I'm just too psyched sometimes!

I'm trying my hardest to improve, so I end up training a lot. When I don't train as much I'm worried i'm not training enough. Just need to find a balance.

Should probably stick to some sort of structure like 2on 1off.

What does Under the Gate do?

Some daft eliminate: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=219653

I tried it with the crimp and it still felt 6C. I seen your video afterwards and the way you do it seems more logical.

[tomtom]

Next week it'll all be different and I'll be back in the gimp suit...

Good for loosing weight...

[csl]

Seriously overdoing it.

Yeah, I thought so, I'm just too psyched sometimes!

A quick look through your power club posts shows you've been complaining about tight forearms and DOM's since June. Probably a good sign you need to structure a bit more rest into your training!

[Luke Owens]

A quick look through your power club posts shows you've been complaining about tight forearms and DOM's since June. Probably a good sign you need to structure a bit more rest into your training!

Tight forearms are actually something that I've noticed I've had since last year, but it definitely seems more prominent lately.

Maybe I'm one of them people that benefits from more rest?

If I factor in that I only get about 6 - 7 hours sleep a night, it's probably no suprise I'm a bit broken.

[csl]

Give resting more a try for a while and see how you fare!

[Schnell]

STG: 7B, just need to take advantage of good weather windows and get stuck in to a project

M. max hangs in the morning, I'm working on BM crimps with approx 8 kilos added, staying strictly half crimped rather than dragging, then first indoor session in almost a month, did loads of mid grade problems to ease back into training. finished with core and lock offs
T.
W. max hangs on crimps followed by outdoor session, couldn't do a weird crimpy 7A but I felt like a worked it out by the end, went to look at some hard problems, then finished consoling myself by repeating a soft 7A
T.
F. max hangs in the morning, terrible forecast for friday, sat and sun means I take off for weekend in the countryside of eating and drinking, good fun.

Had a decent week, I'm doing quite well on the max hangs after a long lay off, though no progress on my STG. This week I was intending to start some strength training, ie weighted pull ups/one armers, lock offs and core while continuing with finger training.

[Stubbs]

1 The weighted sessions are very short. I generally do them once the kids are in bed while I'm cooking the pasta/rice for tea so you're talking less than 20 mins.

Nik, I'm really interested, can you post up exactly what you do on the BM with all this added weight? Are you doing a series of max hangs on various holds? It takes me a good 15 mins at least to warm up on the fingerboard, so the idea of doing something with so much added weight in that length of time freaks me out a bit!

I'm always astounded by quite how strong some people's fingers are, the only holds I use on the bottm row of the BM are the small crimps and the central rung, I'm sure if I tried to use any of the smaller pockets my fungers would fall off...

[Muenchener]

+1

I can't begin to imagine what the shallow sloping two finger pockets are for

[chris05]

Hmm I always find it interesting to compare what people can hang on the BM. Back when I was climbing I would use all of the bottom rung, including the slopey two finger pockets. Unfortunately I still struggled to get a 7B! Dont think it was my finger strength holding me back... good lesson if I make a return

[Sasquatch]

And I assume we're all talking the BM 2K. 

When I first got mine, I couldn't imagine using the lower pockets or the 45s.  3 years later and now I use the lower good 2 finger pockets for m2 and f2, have managed to briefly (2-3sec) hang the 45's, and could probably breifly manage the lower monos if I was willing risk it. The lower slopey 2-f's though are still well beyond my comprehension

Nik, I'm really interested, can you post up exactly what you do on the BM with all this added weight? Are you doing a series of max hangs on various holds? It takes me a good 15 mins at least to warm up on the fingerboard, so the idea of doing something with so much added weight in that length of time freaks me out a bit!

I'm always astounded by quite how strong some people's fingers are, the only holds I use on the bottm row of the BM are the small crimps and the central rung, I'm sure if I tried to use any of the smaller pockets my fungers would fall off...

+1

[Doylo]

What does Under the Gate do?

Some daft eliminate: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=219653

I tried it with the crimp and it still felt 6C. I seen your video afterwards and the way you do it seems more logical.

don't understand why you'd miss out the crimp?

[T_B]

M -
T - School lunch. Bouldering on Moon board and campussing. Did 1-5-8 on 25mm rungs on right.
W -
T - Flew to Spain
F - Warm up 6b, then O/S Pince sans rire 7b+, then flash attempt at Gracias Fina. Fell off at crux moving right 2/3rds up.
S - Warm up 6c, then fell off some bouldery 7b+. Moved to Surgencia sector. Got shut down on Evasion until a friendly local told me it was broken and no longer 8a. Not the best day.
S - decided Les Chacals 8a+/8b is most inspiring looking line so get involved with two working goes. Well psyched - one of the best sport routes I've ever been on.

[a dense loner]

I never understood why people take so long to warm up on the fingerboard? When I did a lot it would take me less than 25 mins a session. Granted I had built up to this. So that's what probably does it, doing a lot means you warm up and your sessions are over quicker. Or is it that you're doing the same amount of work as you did at the start you're just better at it? 

[Muenchener]

Well, I'm new to regular/serious fingerboarding, and not as young as I was, and have had several minor tendon/ligament tweaks in the last few years, so I'm taking it very carefully.

Especially at home. At the wall I warm up with 30-40 minutes of easyish bouldering, which is fun and movement training and a good finger warm-up, then get to it on the beastmaker without worrying too much. Although I still do a couple of sets on jugs or big edges to start off.

At home I'm rather concerned about not being able to warm my fingers up so well. I do 10-15 minutes of general mobility / pressups / whole body warm up stuff, and a few sets of wrist curls in the hope they might do *something* to warm my fingers up. And then I take the first few fingerboard sets very, very gently. I don't start to push it until set five or six, so with two minutes between sets than's about ten minutes after I start on the board and 20/25 minutes from the start of the training session.

[nik at work]

Ask and ye shall receive...
Here (in excruciating detail) is a run down of the BM sessions I do (all footless on a 2k and I also have a pull up bar):

The Basic Regime:
15 - 25 palms facing back pull ups on bar
~ 1 min rest
15 - 25 palms facing forward pull ups on bar
~1 min rest
10s hang 4-finger pocket middle row 2 handed
10s rest
10s hang deep 2-finger pocket middle row 2 handed (middle 2 fingers)
10s rest
10s hand less deep 2-finger pocket middle row 2 handed (middle 2 fingers)
10s rest
10s hang shallow 4-finger pocket bottom row 2 handed
10s rest
10s hang 35's 2 handed
10s rest
10s hang shallow 2-finger pocket bottom row 2 handed (middle 2 fingers)
10s rest
10s hang deep mono's middle row middle finger 2 handed
20s rest
10s hang shallow mono's bottom row middle finger 2 handed
20s rest
10s hang 45's 2 handed (often slide off after 6/7s-ish)
20s rest
10s hang slopy 2-finger pocket bottom row 2 handed (middle 2 fingers)
20s rest
10s hang shallow mono's bottom row ring finger 2 handed
10s rest
~5s hang shallow mono's bottom row index finger 2 handed
20s rest
10s hang shallow monno's bottom row index finger RH middle (or sometimes ring) finger LH
20s rest
10s hang shallo mono's bottom row index finger LH middle (or sometimes ring) finger RH
~1 min rest
10s front lever
10s rest
10 slow straight leg raises holding the last one for a count of 10
~1 min rest
"laddering" from both hands in shallow 2 finger pockets bottom row - RH up to less deep 2 finger pocket middle row -LH up to less deep 2 finger pocket middle row - RH down to shallow 2 finger pocket bottom row - LH down to shallow 2 finger pocket bottom row - repeat x4
Have a pint of skimmed milk
Drain pasta/rice
Eat tea

For the +20kg I drop the number of pull-ups down to 10 each way and I take off the weight before I start on the non-middle finger mono stuff (i.e. just after the slopy 2-finger pocket hang) and do the rest unweighted.

For the +35kg I do 5 pull-ups each way unweighted to "warm-up" then drop the number of weighted pull-ups to 10 each way and I drop the weight to 20kg for the middle finger mono's and then take off the weight before I start on the non-middle finger mono stuff (i.e. just after the slopy 2-finger pocket hang) and do the rest un-weighted.

I've also this week done a modified no added weight session where the rest times are the same but the hang times are doubled to 20s (apart from the 45's, 2-finger slopy pockets and mixed index/middle finger which stay at 10s, as does the front lever and leg raise hold and the index finger mono stays at 5s)

So allowing a minute each for the non-timed bit's and bats that puts me on just shy of 14 minutes I think? For the weighted stuff theres a bit of messing with the plates so maybe 15/16 minutes for that and the extended hang non-weighted session is obviously longer by approximately 2-ish minutes so 15 - 20 minutes sounds about right?

Random notes and thoughts

I complete all the hangs (with a bit of fighting for some...) except for sliding off the 45's and sometimes the index mono's are a bit rushed... Unless something feels "wrong/weird" in which case I'll ease up/bin the session depending on level of weirdness. I also sometimes fluff the laddering, usually a coordination thing rather than muscle failure (you can't latch a pocket if you don't even hit it)

Um, on paper the warm up period is pretty sketchy short and probably not ideal for most. However there are a couple of factors which may explain why I get away with this:
1) I have always been quick to warm up.
2) I'm probably in a reasonable state of "warm up" before I start anyway as the BM sessions are always done in the evening after work. So I do a pretty physical job, on my feet 90% of the day lifting and grafting, then I get home and play with the kids (essentially wresting), then cook their tea in a warm kitchen, have a shower, bath and bed them (plenty of lifting/carrying/hugging) then come downstairs and hang. So my body is pretty ready for activity (even if I feel dog-tired). I'm sure if I worked in an office, then commuted home on the train for an hour, then sat and watched telly for a hour or two then cranked out multiple weighted pull-ups I'd snap.

I'm only posting this because I was asked to. I'm not suggesting this is the best, or even a good regime.Hell I'm not even saying it's in any way rational. It's just what I do and it seems to be at least not breaking me, so that's nice. Don't try this at home kids, unless you want to, in which case do, but don't tell your mum, but I never said that right? Tidy...

[nik at work]

the only holds I use on the bottm row of the BM are the small crimps and the central rung, I'm sure if I tried to use any of the smaller pockets my fungers would fall off...

Whereas I never use that central rung, I find it insanely painful and unpleasant to hang, always seems very sharp and nasty. Certainly the worst designed hold on the board (i.e. the only bad one) IMHO.

[Sasquatch]

wow.  goes to show how far I can still take my fingers. that makes me happy   

[Stubbs]

Thanks Nik, that's great, so just let me get this straight, you can hang the sloping 2 finger pockets for 10 seconds with +35kg?!  Like Sasquatch says, it really shows what can be done in finger strength, it also makes me think you should be knocking out some 8B+s!

[Duma]

     

[nik at work]

Sorry I possibly wasn't that clear in my description but I drop down to 20kg for the middle finger mono's onwards until I get to the non-middle finger mono's when I go unweighted. So I can hang the sloping pockets for 10s with +20kg, never tried with +35kg...

8B+ would be nice, I'll stick it on the list...

[Fiend]

Obviously underperforming and traumatised either by GME's crushing disparaging of British standards or the pressures of relentless media whoring...

[GCW]

Yeah, but what's he ever done on grit?

[rginns]

... by my woeful stamina and flexibility....

Sorry whaaa?

You must have a different flippin' scale to me then!!!

[webbo]

Mon. Board 15 problems to warm up then 6 problems 4 times each.
Tue. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board worked out and did 4 new problems, repeated a couple of old ones. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. Nothing other steroid injection in my foot.
Sat. Board did a couple of things I'd been trying over last couple of sessions.
Sun. Bike 72 miles 18.23 mph 3 hrs 56 mins.