[2 Tru]

When performing max hangs on a smallest rung possible I've found that in order for me to stay on my left hand falls into a open hand position and my right hand has to be in a half crimp.

If I try to crimp with my left it automatically falls back into a drag and if I try to drag with my right I fall off the fingerboard.

1) What is going on here, does it need fixing?
2) How do I fix it?

I'm left-handed if that makes any difference.

Cheers for your help.

[Probes]

Your left hand is crap at crimping and your right is crap open handed 'relative to the opposite hand'  .
Id focus on training each hand individually for a bit, so you can concentrate on staying in the crimp position. Could be a bit of neuromuscular going on also, 'naturally' tending towards your strongest position.

May be try training in half crimp position as well.. eg, no thumb.. and make a conscious effort to keep the crimp position really high/tight, not letting it drift into openhandedness..

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Perhaps "what's going on here" and the problem, are one and the same. If like me, you're a bit too bothered about the imbalance of having one hand stronger than the other, you're possibly more prone to some sort of injury as a consequence of trying to address the imbalance directly. This will mean you're likely to try to find some sort of "shortcut" to strength gains on the weaker ("offending") hand, which, in my experience becomes a shortcut to injury. You'd also think, reading this, that I've learnt from experience, but being a bit stupid, recent "experience" proves otherwise!

Maybe this issue only occurs when you try to hang a 1mm edge? Sounds like a ridiculous assertion (?!), but just trying to point out that a bit of context is needed before deciding whether there is a problem.

On a practical level, have you tried hanging the edge with an open grip on both hands - no thumbs, 90° bend at 2nd knuckle?  - but standing on a set of bathroom scales? Do reps/sets with progressively lower assistance - lower weight measured on the scales. Alternatively, switch to a deeper edge (2mm ;-)) but with added weight, but again, concentrate on keeping the same grip. I'm not sure if this really works in itself, but the clear suggestion is to treat both hands the same.

Wish I could.

Maybe there are other imbalances that result in you favouring one hand/side over the other. I'd suggest that may be worth exploring.?

Dave.

[thekettle]

First it may be worth taking a vid of yourself to check you're hanging centrally beneath your hands - otherwise it sounds like you've stumbled upon an imbalance/strong preference in grip styles.
Fixing it should widen the range of useable small holds and body positions for you - win!
Get on holds that you can do the opposite of your preference with, and build from there until the performance has evened out. Bear in mind the whole process could be neural as Probes said (you're not stronger or weaker in different strengths, they're just very unfamiliar and need to be practiced until comfortable using them).
All IMHO of course.

[Ru]

the half crimp is a more mechanically advsntageous grip on many crimp holds, but it takes more strength to maintain. My guess is that you are weaker in you left hand so it opens out into an open hand position, but you are not strong enough open handed on both hands to remain holding on without the advantage of the half crimp. Remedy, train left hand to be stronger half crimped.

[lagerstarfish]

what is going on is this

your max hang weight for your LH crimp is less than bodyweight, as is that of your RH drag

lose some weight

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[2 Tru]

Cheers for all your help, I'll train half crimp and drag on both hands with progressive overload and see how it goes.

Interesting idea about whether I am centered whilst hanging. I broke my collarbone last year so maybe this is having an impact.

Lager, cheers for your advice sadly it has made me anorexic and I will now be suing you for the sum of £572.40 and a box of crispy creams.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

You could tweak a pulley on your right hand.

That should even things up.

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Sorry 

[webbo]

I find I do something similar but when I'm climbing. I tend to crimp with my left and open hand with my right.
I find when I do problems on my board which are mirror images of each other, I can often do the one which is right hand dominate even though I' m open handing but can't do the left hand no matter what grip. I can crimp with my right hand but I really have to concentrate hard to do it but  often I find half way through a move my thumb comes off

[lagerstarfish]

Lager, cheers for your advice sadly it has made me anorexic and I will now be suing you for the sum of £572.40 and a box of crispy creams.

cool

how much better can you crimp with your LH now?

with what DT90 owes me for butting in on my gig, I should be able to break even on the deal

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Lager, cheers for your advice sadly it has made me anorexic and I will now be suing you for the sum of £572.40 and a box of crispy creams.

cool

how much better can you crimp with your LH now?

with what DT90 owes me for butting in on my gig, I should be able to break even on the deal

Ha ha! 

Always a conundrum though, whether/how to deal with imbalances. My left hand has always been a little weaker than my right - except on pinches, since smashing up my thumb (surprise) - but both seem to be getting stronger at about the same rate. The imbalance stays the same, so I guess I'm happy to go with that.