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Sunset Boulevard at Giggleswick North (Read 10579 times)

Footwork

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Anyone know how Giggleswick is doing after the rain seepage wise? Specifically interested in Militia at the G-Spot, but as it's unlikely anyone has been there recently I will assume it's similar to the Hollywood bowl.

The Bowl was all dry today. Seepage might be on it's way but hard to tell. The ground will have been very very dry before the recent rain.

The bowl was also totally rammed today.

Will Hunt

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Just in case anybody is looking here in the future, a few additional refinements which made a big difference.

When reaching out left from the roof flake to the sidepull there is often a tickmark on said sidepull. It's too low. You want to take the sidepull at its top where there is currently a rattle-stone.

When doing this reach out left, you can either do it with the heel on the flake or with your toe way out left. The former makes it easier to get the sidepull, but you do then have to adjust your foot immediately afterwards. The latter is more draining to start and more tensiony/corey because you're throwing your toe such a long way out left but you'll then move through the next bit slightly quicker. We opted to take the sidepull with heel in the flake.

On Sunday I had three redpoint goes falling off trying to get my left hand to good crimp over the lip. I was taking the poor intermediate crimp over the lip, shuffling my RF up the roof flake, then going again for the good crimp but coming up short. It was vital to also shuffle my LF up the roof flake in order to make the reach. An alternative which also works is to put in a drop knee for the left foot. I didn't do this myself but this makes it work for the shorter climber.

Once established on the lip crimps, the next move is a RH stab into a thin horizontal crack formed by a flake. This requires a reasonable amount of accuracy and I found it pretty vital on RP to place LF in the roof crack to get a more stable body position.

thekettle

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Detailed!  :coffee:
@ Ru, Militia has been cleaned and climbed on a fair bit this year (not by me) so should be in good nick if it's not seeping.

Rob F

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Well done Will. Looking forwards to reading more about it on Stretching Club this week.

Psyched for this new guidebook now. Can sense the attention to detail - far beyond the line on a photograph advocated by other guidebook authors...

SA Chris

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Downgrade time? Good going Will.

dunnyg

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Quote
Psyched for this new guidebook now. Can sense the attention to detail - far beyond the line on a photograph advocated by other guidebook authors...

Imagine hard rock, but for every route in Yorkshire. I heard volumes 1-495 (covering giggleswick and robin proctors) will be released in June 2021, would you care to confirm or deny these rumors will?

Rob F

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May I be so bold as to make a suggestion?

For the 2500 pages devoted to Malham & Kilnsey (inc 200 pages on the history of the Oak, naming and shaming who applied each tick mark)- will it be possible to have an official "Guidebook Grade", then alongside have a blank box labelled "Personal Grade" ???

 

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