[haydn jones]

How do you clip the third clip?

[Paul B]

extend it loads, climb up, clip it and then downclimb.

[spidermonkey09]

Had a few sessions on this now. Once I attain the undercut at the fourth clip I can link it fine but the boulder start feels completely nails. I have watched several strong lads dispatch it all using slightly different beta. The common denominator with all of those I have seen on it is they are strong as fuck and good at bouldering. I need a more subtle sequence so please hit me up with any and all beta you have so I can try a few things when I next go!

My current sequence/idea of a sequence is: left hand good horn undercut. Right hand good one pad undercut in roof. left foot on smear and right foot into very deep drop knee off the spike. (I have heard about a weird footlock but seems a bit unnecessary to me?) Right hand then goes up to the very disappointing sloper. I can hold this but moving off it feels unfathomable. My somewhat conceptual sequence for the next bit is bumping left hand to higher, shitter undercut, unwinding the drop knee, left foot toe hook in the jug undercut and lay one on with the left hand for the crimp. Hopefully my feet stay on and I can match the crimp and go into the next sequence.

I presume I am either weak or this is fucking hard/knacky as it feels about font 7B followed by an 8a route! All info appreciated as the climbing on the headwall is ace and I am keen to do it.

[Bonjoy]

I dont recall the exact details, but I did it with beta similar to yours, going left hand to the crimp rather than going again with right. I think it involved a bicycle with feet to work and was a very fast slap.

[kc]

Years back the foot lock made perfect sense. The bit of rock that held your foot in place has long departed and knee pads are now accepted attire. I'm sure I've done the move since without assistance. The slopper was always an intermediate hold for me. I'm also weak. Persistence is needed. You'll get there. Great route.

[andy popp]

John Hart was always a strong bugger.

[spidermonkey09]

Years back the foot lock made perfect sense. The bit of rock that held your foot in place has long departed and knee pads are now accepted attire. I'm sure I've done the move since without assistance. The slopper was always an intermediate hold for me. I'm also weak. Persistence is needed. You'll get there. Great route.

Thanks all! Sounds like I need to get on with it but please do keep it coming. I can see where people have been sticking the foot lock in as there is a lot of rubber there but presuming it is only of help going to the sloper I suppose I might as well stick with the drop knee and avoid the risk of snapping my foot off! I have had a look for a knee but perhaps I'm not looking hard enough. Going again with the right hand to the crimp would definitely be easier but I haven't got the span I don't think.

It really is very good. Some brilliant technical sequences on the headwall. It is almost a shame it isn't jugs through the bulge as it would then be a very balanced 8a.

[Paul B]

If it makes you feel better the first time I did this move (I was having RP goes as everything else was wired) I got a little further (stoop up and clipping off another Egyptian?) and shouted 'slack' which was misheard by my wife who ran backwards (thinking take) dragging me off. I had a moment of futile resistance.

I think (but it was now a fair while ago; ~2011) that my right foot was higher than the obvious place where people do the Egyptian and may have padded the left upwards.

Thankfully the next time I did the move it went. I recall Johnny Brown (moaning about "out of gamut green") being there snapping photos (of which I have a few) perhaps he might have some others which I don't posses which show the sequence clearly? I can send you the one I have from lower down via Twitter but I'm not sure it'll help much.

I dont recall the exact details, but I did it with beta similar to yours, going left hand to the crimp rather than going again with right. I think it involved a bicycle with feet to work and was a very fast slap.

It did; I remember trying this sequence at the time and it was unfathomable.

JB also kept referring to it as the route "Caff couldn't do" which did make me feel better.

[abarro81]

I remember the footlock being useful (stops you flying off when going again with RH maybe?) and it feeling about 7A+ish. I don't remember much else though, and it was before I had realised that knees existed...

Vid of Moon doing it:
Vid of Haydn with different sequence:

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers! That photo is interesting as it is toehooking an undercut i hadn't considered.

Also worth mentioning that the fourth bolt is spinning alarmingly and seems to pull out slightly too. This is particularly concerning as you have to skip the next one going up the groove. Once I have had a lesson from DanM in a few weeks I would be keen to put a new one in here but I also don't want to fuck anything up, so if anyone gets there before me/ wants to  help ensure I don't fuck it up that would be much appreciated.

[spidermonkey09]

I remember the footlock being useful (stops you flying off when going again with RH maybe?) and it feeling about 7A+ish. I don't remember much else though, and it was before I had realised that knees existed...

Vid of Moon doing it:
Vid of Haydn with different sequence:

Cheers, Moon looking cosmically strong on that.  Not really a surprise though.

I have found the knee that Haydn drops in but it didn't do a lot for me as I couldn't pull on the sloper. Interesting that he seems to be using a (doubtless appalling) intermediate before going to the crimp with left hand.

[Paul B]

Cheers! That photo is interesting as it is toehooking an undercut i hadn't considered.

https://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/1268928906821873664?s=20

https://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/1268930713140834305?s=20

[haydn jones]

The intermediate is a decent 2 finger crimp just down and left of the sloper.

[spidermonkey09]

The intermediate is a decent 2 finger crimp just down and left of the sloper.

Nice one, thanks.