[Doylo]

Checkout 8a.nu. The big JG has repeated Gossip font 8c in the jura and another 8b+. Be interesting to hear how hard he thinks they are compared to his own creations!

[cofe]

GODSKINS

[Nigel]

   :owned:

I don't have the words...legend.

[David S]

Would you believe that Markus Bock is having a dig at John and questioning his honesty on the 8a.nu site. Never have I heard such bollocks.

John is a genuine honest bloke and thankfully the site have given him right to reply.

[Bubba]

Yeah, but he obviously made the mistake of not having a film crew and witnesses in tow  :wink:

[dave]

they'reprobably just sore that thier swiss-graded euro problems getting dicked all over by an on-form gaskizzle.

[squeek]

 That tale is saddening because they were actually in contact with each other and instead of ringing or texting John to query him, he's just gone and stuck it on the web site.

[cofe]

 That tale is saddening because they were actually in contact with each other and instead of ringing or texting John to query him, he's just gone and stuck it on the web site.

word. the muthabocka has done the exact opposite of what has been discussed on't 'witch hunt' thread. shame.

[Carnage]

That piece on 8a.nu reads like a dose of sour grapes.

Bocks hardest problem which he oddly retrograded 8C (was orginally 8B+ til the 8C grade came around) gets blasted in double quick time and he just can't take it.    


Go Gaskins, go Gaskins, go Gaskins.....

[chappers]

how fast the man nailed the problems makes you wonder if all his probs in the uk are FAR harder than he has said.
what an effort.
it is sad to read the response to his sends. he is right where he says that he has never tried to build a reputation for himself. if anything it appears that he tries his hardest to keep himself to himself.

wait till he nails action direct, then he will be laughing.

[tc]

I do most of my climbing and bouldering midweek when the crowds have gone home and have done for years. Does this mean I will now have to get my dog an opposable thumb so he can work a video camera or have one surgically implanted in my arse? Can anyone recommend a suitable model without too many sharp edges and protruding buttons?  :evil:

[Bonjoy]

Kate Moss?? On second thoughts she's got a few sharp edges.

[Sloper]

I think Naiomi Campbell would be better, more use as a spotter, he rage will help you stick those finishing holds and she may have a little white  powder to help you get up those highballs

[Bonjoy]

Further response from Gaskins to Bock's accusations on 8a.nu :
"I've just looked at what you've written/published, more specifically Markus' comments.
Re. Zerberus: The line I climbed (as Markus knows) was neither the 7C nor Zerberus, rather it was a line in between the 2 and using holds of both. To me this was the central line (which was the line I had been told Zerberus was, whereas Zerberus is really left of centre). Markus appears to be being deliberately misleading people regarding this problem to support his story.

The reach thing on Gossip is rubbish, it really is not that far between the holds, although very good body tension is a prerequiste. The distance is certainly less, and on better holds, than between the holds on my own problem, At the Heart of it All (Woodwell) which also crosses a roof.

I would not say meeting at 2:30 in the afternoon is climbing all day with someone. Whilst my only attempt on the 8A was an attempted flash.
I could continue but I have no interest in a "one side says this, another that argument", merely I wish to add perspective to Markus' comments which have, at best, minimal foundation in what actually happened, whilst most are totally inaccurate.

P.S. Markus has put the wrong year on his dates (2005 rather than 2004). Also the date of my ascent of Riot Act is wrong, as also is his assertion that I climbed Riot Act the day I arrived in the Frankenjura."

[Pantontino]

I look forward to the grovelling apology from Bock.

More shameful, jealous nonsense - what is happening to climbing culture?

[squeek]

how fast the man nailed the problems makes you wonder if all his probs in the uk are FAR harder than he has said.

The reach thing on Gossip is rubbish, it really is not that far between the holds, although very good body tension is a prerequiste. The distance is certainly less, and on better holds, than between the holds on my own problem, At the Heart of it All (Woodwell) which also crosses a roof.

  I'm glad he's put that straight it now sounds a lot better for him, considering what he's done and how little media attention he gets it's obvious that he's not in it for the sponsorship/money as is being insinuated else where.

[dave]

go gaskins go gaskins go

[Carnage]

I really hope that Gaskins gets on Action Directe and gets it double quick. The one route Bock hasn't done. That'd really twist the knife.

   

[dave]

preferably with a downgrade. :

[Bubba]

Don't think anyone can downgrade A.D. - it's considered the benchmark 9a innit?

[squeek]

no, but you could retro upgrade your problems  

[dave]

it's considered the benchmark 9a innit?

apparently not by ben moon - there was some OTE article about it years ago.

think wolfgang gid it X or whatever the UIAA grade is whcih sites at the top end of 8c+. then everyone else said it was 9a. but then agagin who's going to downgrade what was the hardest thing in the world?and its only had like 4 or 5 ascents innit? a bit like dreamtime was thought of is benchmark 8c, no-one downgraded that till malc and that was after a fair few sends.

[Bubba]

Yeah, but Ben hasn't done it  

It's only had five ascents I think - see Steve Mac's PF article for all your 9a needs....

[Stubbs]

The baldee headed crimp god has replied to the slurs against his character again on 8a, including the line "Body tension is a prerequisite". Gaskins - body tension? nah..!

[a dense loner]

of course you can retro-grade your own prob if no one else has done it n you feel you were being too generous or too sandbagging after a bit of reflection.
why are we goin on about the grade of dreamtime, so malc has said it's 8b+. i'm pretty sure everyone else has took the 8c tick. if grades are formed by consensus, which they are, dreamtime has had prob 8 ascents n only one person has spoke out. same with A.D.
now i know people don't like to argue with big grades cos it spoils there scorecards, but that's another story.
is gaskins still in the jura? if i where him i would get my wife to video me pathing the prob, downgrade it n then piss on the startin holds. :worthy: