[jwi]

U Wall is 7a+ and fairly sustained. Alpinist has an interview:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/newswire-alex-honnold-university-wall-squamish

[a dense loner]

Yep, I was only reading about Auer yesterday. Good stuff

[Johnny Brown]

7a+ hardly does it justice. I think Alex's comment "It's like the hardman version of Astroman" tells you a bit more. Bottled it both times I've been to Squamish.

[casa]

Scary stuff (to the lay man). But he does appear to be very comfortable and is obviously operating well within his limits. Very impressive. Nice interview. Cool guy.

[jwi]

7a+ hardly does it justice. I think Alex's comment "It's like the hardman version of Astroman" tells you a bit more. Bottled it both times I've been to Squamish.

Fair enough, I have not been to Canada. I thought the grades for cracks were quite ok in US, translation tables worked out to what I would expect for in Scandinavia, Czech republic and in the Pyrenees.

Is it harder in Squamish?

[Johnny Brown]

Not really, but who would use 7a to describe Astroman? Not me. Both routes have 1000' of sustained 5.11 with pitches of 5.12.

[jwi]

No you are right. ED is better.

[Fultonius]

French grades for cracks make no sense, since, in France, they can't grade cracks for toffee.

In my experience:
Fr6a = 5.9
Fr6b = 10a/b
Fr6c = 10c/d
Fr7a = 11a/b

Basically, if you take a letter grade off the French grade it's more realistic.

Your University wall would probably get given closer to F7b/+ if it was in Chamonix. (not saying it *is* F7b+ though)


Either way, I love the fact he does just do these things purely for the fun of it - no fanfare, just climbing. Nice.

[T_B]

I don't think you can compare Freeway with Astroman really. Freeway is a very 'British' style route with plenty of features and very little full-on jamming cracks (the cruxes are fingers and a roof, not an overhanging orifice!)

I've done Northern Lights and the 12a off fingers pitch is more Yosemite-esque, but it's still more 'friendly'. Not done U Wall but got the impression that was more full on crack action. Looks intimidating.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah. I possiblI overestimated Astroman when I was in the valley, Rostrum went mostly fine but I assumed Astroman was a big step up. Freeway went fine, I guess it's similar to the Rostrum though again less full on crack climbing. I was referring to Astroman as it's the one everyone has heard of, so 'a hardman's version' is good context for U-wall. The prospect of the damp 5.12 entry pitch first thing in the morning was enough to put me off!

Has Freeway been soloed much?

(A local told me Alaska highway was the real gem amongst the big free routes).

[T_B]

Yes, Alaska Highway is one of the best pitches anywhere.

[T_B]

I should have said that bomb bay overhanging weirdness pitch of Alaska Highway (the first proper pitch?) is amazing. We took about 10 size 1.5 cams for the 12a pitch on NL.