[tomtom]

M: Tor. Met up with Nai - good to catch up. Usual couple of failed attempts at Weedkiller.. spent some time trying Bashers prob - tricky and screamed up to the sidepull a couple of times but couldnt man up to make the slap to the final jug. Quite a stiff first move too.. Had a play on Rattle & Hump as well. Decided it hurt Did a link on Bens that I'd not done before (from start to midway through first roof) and worked the other move a little... knackered.

T:

W: Tor. A funny session - took ages to warm up - but came closer on Weedkiller - got to the end of the traverse and managed to hang on to the jug and get a heel up - then powered out. Mina & Rob (Greenwood?) were working on a long long route on the LH side (Rob) and Mecca extension (Mina). Impressive stuff from both.. with Mina cruising through Mecca on her first RP and getting a good way up the extension. Nice people - good to chat to - very positive (despite my grumblings about Weedkiller and lack of endurance) Took my mats to go and sulk play on R&H again - felt stronger than on the Monday (I was fresher) and got the heel/toe up a couple of times, but the RH hold/crimp was really sharp. Really bit into the joint below the first pad on my index finger... which promplty split/developed a small flapper.. Gave up on that - taped up and went back to the Cave... pissed about on WK again (Hello Liam) and gave up...

Th:

F: An odd day. It was a bit cool - and couldnt get out early so figured I might have a try at Burbage west and see how West Side was feeling... I racked up - windyish (good) some cloud cover (good), problem still in bright sunshine at 12:15 (bad). In winter it gets into the shade at about 11 - and of course British summer time - different position of the sun etc.. Anyway, I had a pull on - and it felt alright ish - though a bit squirmy (obviously not primo). Reached second sidepull consistently and LH greased out of the crimp thereafter... Then it rained - though because of the wind it remained dry. Then it hailed. Then it stopped. Then load of midges appeared out of nowhere and I ran away It was about 1pm by then - and I considered going home. Decided to check out the Tor on the way back - some cloud cover and no-one there.. all looked good.

Felt alright as I warmed up - though first try at Weedkiller was awful - pinged out of starting holds... A couple of kids with some walkers from the road wandered up as I started attempt number 2 - and to my surprise I found myself at the end of the traverse feeling OK ish... started up the final moves and ran out of juice.... viewers seemed impressed - and I did my best to hide my scowls of disappointment...  I had a long rest (20 min) - set up the camera for a little added incentive/pressure - felt smooth - got to the end of the traverse - and just try one more move.. just try one more move... just try the final move. And... got it.  Theres a vid up in the YYFY - but I made this one up that compares my previous attempt (last ish week) with the successful one..



Its interesting analysing this - considering the conversation about endurance/training/faffing on holds (thanks Dense) from last week. I start slower - but then move fast through the middle bit - and by the time I fall off on the failed attempt I'm already starting to work my way up the final holds... More confidence (and strength?) in the middle section. Certainly theres less sag and more directness in that part. But great - what morphed into my summer project has now been done Thanks to all who have given beta/advice/spotting/shouting/encouragement over the past few weeks..

Sa: A little hungover - no energy...

Su: Shortly off to the Airport for a two day meeting in NL.. no more climbing this week...

[mindfull]

On monday evening, the doctor allowed me to get rid the brace on the left arm. 


MON:
- Stretching: Lower Body + Splits
- PE(bodyweight): Situps
- Tai Chi (10min.)

TUE:
- Stretching: Lower Body + Splits
- PE(bodyweight): Planks
- PE(weight): Biceps/Triceps/Shoulder/Chest
- Tai Chi (10min.)

WED:
Rest Day

THU:
- Stretching: Lower+Upper Body +Splits
- PO(bodyweight): Planks/Pushups/Pullups
- PO(weight): Biceps/Triceps/Shoulder/Back/Chest
- Tai Chi (10min.)

FRI:
- Stretching: Lower+Upper Body + Splits
- PO(bodyweight): Planks/Pushups/Pullups
- PO(weight): Biceps/Triceps/Shoulder/Back/Chest/Squats
- Tai Chi (20min.)

SAT:
PO(boulder)
Went for the first time in almost 2 months to the climbing gym. Dit 30 sets of 5-8 V0-V1 moves, with maximum rest. Felt so good!

SUN:
Rest. Muscles are a bit stiff. Tai Chi for 20minutes.

[kelvin]

Just back from a very wet trip to Switzerland. Very wet.

Away for a month, was supposed to be six weeks but caught the ferry back two weeks early. Ah well.

Font - Climbed five days straight and actually enjoyed it this time. Didn't sit under one problem but tried the easy circuits and I think I finally understood Font. My first 6A in the actual forest, Le Petit Toit in Oiseaux and from what I can make from a couple of guides and some topos (nothing makes sense in the forest, even the grades), I managed a 6A+ and maybe a 6B. Utterly battered by the last day and was struggling with the blue circuit at JA Martin, so put the pad in the van and got on the oranges with just a door mat. I really enjoyed that, just whizzing around. Went 'off-piste' too... now that was an adventure!

Then it was off to Basel for a swim in the Rhine before heading into Switzerland.



Swizzy - Mate ended up in hospital with streptococcus, so no getting on Salbit or the new crag he'd just bolted. Had a day cragging in Arolla, walked up Pigne d'Arolla 3700m and then Gemma decided to head to Spain... I came home. Also went to Sustenpass, not the most inspiring place to boulder and much too hard for me. The rock seemed hard to get a grip of, maybe it was me but I didn't enjoy it there but it was just a couple of days after leaving Font. Tried to solo the Eiger again but the weather forecast was wrong - story of the hols really. Did some Via Ferrata. Am a lot fitter, managing 500 vertical metres an hour fairly comfy and running back down from huts and Font has made me a little braver I think, some of the top outs are just ridiculous when you're on your own.

Ended up swimming in Italian lakes too before I came back.

ps - the pic is of the walk in to Eldorado.

[french erick]

Well done Tomtom. One put to rest, which one now?

Not much to my week but one session on the crack machine yesterday. 1hour and no pain today or during so i'm on a winner so long as I do not reach for anything but jams.
Baby is getting ok at sleeping.

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers. Still feeling good.
2014 goals- 2014 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport.

M- Rest.

T- Rest.

W- Black Rocks, filming not climbing. Lots of walking around the area finding all the places you can get a good view of the crag from.

T- Black Rocks. it started raining as I reached Cromford so I just walked around exploring esoteric hidden bits. Didn't actually do any climbing but did plenty of scrambling/ thrashing around with camera and tripod attached to me.

F- Rest.

S- Rest.

S- Black Rocks. Took my bouldering mat out for, I think, the first time in 2014. Did nearly all the problems on the top boulders and some on the Railway boulders but nothing above 6A+ as it turns out I'm (predictably) quite shit at bouldering now. It was too warm anyway. Did some esoteric oloing and cleaning, combining the two on an HVD slab where I had to scrub the moss away to find the next chipped hold.  Fun afternoon.

Traditional August rest week basically. Good to do some bouldering even though I kinda sucked- fingers feel fine though, which is good.

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7 and more development.
MTG: DWS (not far off moving this back to stg.....)
LTG: V11

M:
T:
W: Lot 33. Warmed up, jumped on V7. Couple of attempts later, left hand blew off tiny crimp, cracked knuckles open on said crimp, blood everywhere, managed to stay on, did next couple of moves and came off the last. Added weight/pressure of keeping myself on also made my RH get sliced open on sharpey... More blood everywhere... Total climb time: 15min. Packed up, went home and sulked.
T: Flat Rock. Weather looked dicey. Been wanting to clean a new highball line for a while. Finally borrowed a rope, setting up anchors watching the weather.... Changed mind, packed up just in time for it to piss down. Waited for about 30min underneath the line (couple of degrees overhanging and about 8m high), put up a shit V0 before getting bored and wandering off into the rain to take photos.
F: Aquaplaning at 90kph around a corner on the bike is rather scary...
S:
S: Lot 33 for a quick session with a mate. Warmed up on a V3 that I put up then did laps on a V4 doing dyno eliminates on it too. The headed across the creek to a new spot that a mate has been developing (20 routes so far but only a small handful of problems). Knocked out a few lines before heading to work.

[Sasquatch]

STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder (3 done)
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M - FB MAW,Levers
T - Active Recovery Climbing 3x10min
W - FB MAW, Levers, Abs
Th - 45 problems at local wall up to 7B+.  Loads of movement, which i think i needed...
F - 90 minute Mtn Bike w Wife
S - Big Day - Short version - Warmed up, tried project, made good progress, put up two new lines - a cool v5 highball and a new v10.  Long version below.
S - Rest


Long Version of Saturday - Warmed up on a w new v0-v3 problems cleaned earlier this summer, then finished warmup repeating a v7 and v8 I had done before. First day working local 8b? Project.  A total of 6 moves till you're done with the business, with the third being absolute nails.  I linked to the third move, relearned the body/foot positions for that move(couldn't quite stick, but was consistently hitting the hold), dialed the sequence after that, and linked from moves 4-6 (proud of this - is it's probably hard v10 from here).  Went and got on freshly cleaned scareball line (highball with horrible landing=scareball). We had more pads on this one problem than I've ever seen on a single day in Alaska   Managed to scare myself silly doing the FA, then doing a low start to it as well, and spotting a few others on it a well.  Turned out to be a Stellar v5/v7low line.  Then repeated a few more lines, then went and revisited another old project we've been trying for years, but has broken a couple of times whenever we get close.  Made progress there as well.  I can see possible sequence. About to head home when a partner suggested we check out 1 more line.  Went and checked it out.  Ended up figuring out and sending a really good new v10.  Did two more new easy lines.  Awesome day - in total did 18 problems, 10 I had never done before, Work two projects making progress on both, my friend sent his first v9, and had good scotch to celebrate.

[EdGowSmith]

7A:    33/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    9/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    6/10

Stretches: 3/4

Mon: Anstey's with Mark and his friends. Got very close on a 7c, then did some bouldering, including filming a 7C+ I did a while back.
Tues: CWP fingerboarding, systems boarding, pull-ups and shoulder stuff.
Wed: Session at the Bunker, was going to train but felt shit from Tuesday night, ended up just doing eliminates in trainers.
Thurs: Rest day.
Fri: Hartland with Rory. Did The End is Nigh, 2nd go after working the moves, felt piss! Would be my first 8A, and basically all other ascentionists seem to have taken that, but it simply didn't feel that hard, so I took 7C+ for it. Pretty psyched anyway as I know 8A is just round the corner...  Then the Quay in the evening. Came so close to flashing the hardest problem in the comp, then did some other problems and a little training but felt wrecked.
Sat: Rest day, no skin!
Sun: Hartland again with Ellis. Worked the moves on a "proper" 8A, but then took a bad fall and sprained my wrist so had to stop trying it. Awesome line and keen to be back.

[Muenchener]

Just back from a very wet trip to Switzerland. Very wet.
...
ps - the pic is of the walk in to Eldorado.

I was afraid that might have happened. My Kaisergebirge/Totenkirchl trip was a complete washout too. Happens sometimes.

Nice pic.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Any halfway decent alpine route
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Grudgingly easing back into a bit of mileage on plastic routes, although I have next to no motivation for them. 5b 5c 6a 5b 5c 6a+ 5c 6a+ 5b.
T: Kettlebell 20kg. 2 x 1 per side TGUs, 3 x 25 swings. Mobility / knee physio / core before & after
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half an hour moderate bouldering to warm up, then 12 sets Beastmaker. Discovered I don't get on with 7-3 repeaters so am going for 5-10 maxish hangs for the time being. Will see if this brings actual gains for the autumn Frankenseason.
S: Spectating at Bouldering World Championship with M Jnr. A Grand Day Out.
S: Sport climbing in the Danube/Regensburg area. There are some nice little crags up there, similar rock to the 'jura and closer for a day trip. Warmed up on a limestone jamming crack  But always going to new crags means finishing any redpoints: added another one my collection of ongoing Bavarian 6c+ projects. Technical crux is moving through a scoop on a vertical wall on small crimps & pockets, is really nice climbing and I can do it, but then comes the redpoint crux up a steep crack with rather spaced bolting. Will have to give my head a good talking to to have any hope on this one.

[T_B]

84.7Kg

M - Lunch School. Bouldering and AnPow (4 x 4 rep sets on 50 degree with equal rest). P.M. Foundry 10 mins on, 4 mins off x 4
T -
W - Lunch. Repeaters. 6 x 7 secs open front 3, back 3 and 2 sets on smallest BM edge. Hung smallest non-slopey 2-finger pockets for 10 secs (a PB). P.M. Works circuit board - tired from lunch sess.
T -
F -
S - A.M. Back to Crunch buttress. Warmed up at Rubicon, then put clips in Agent Provocateur. One cold fingers RP, then fired it next go (cold fingers, so spent longer than expected at the jug). Quickest I've done an 8a+ Flashed a 7c afterwards.
S - P.M. AeroPow at the School

A couple of double sessions this week, as I wanted 2 days rest before climbing on Saturday morning. Double session on Wednesday didn't really work as too tired for any kind of intensity on circuits. Just one session this week before heading to Exeter - hoping to climb at Anstey's Friday, then DWS comp Saturday. Can't do Sunday even if I get through to the semis as got family commitments, but should be a laugh...

[fried]

Mon-Tues - Back to work.

Wednesday - Fancy an easy session for my first climb outdoors for a few weeks. Go to Segognole, 2 easy circuits yellow/orange to warm up on. Then a few attempts at some reds. Suprised myself by hitting the top of a 5+ in a couple of goes, but the place was empty and I fancied a spot for the top-out.

Thurs - nothing
Friday - Indoor, feeling fine. Stopped by sore skin, floating in the Med is a killer!
Sat - BBQ, real charcoal, in the dark too.

Sun - Rocher du Potala to try a few blues. Started badly (weather is cool for August but not cool enough) slipping off the same sloper. Missed a couple of problems, got shut down again, then hit my stride and started working through a few new ones and a few repeats. Pleased to get a one move 5A that involves pulling up off a three finger razor crimp ( I usally give up after a couple of attempts). Lovely day out.

[kelvin]

My Kaisergebirge/Totenkirchl trip was a complete washout too. Happens sometimes.

I as wondering about that - sorry to hear it. Like most goals or projects in climbing, being able to jump straight on when conditions allow makes a huge difference to the chances of success. Next year maybe?

There's some good stuff above too - nice work everyone 

[fried]

Glad to hear you had a good time in Font. Sometimes (often) easy circuiting is the way to go.

[kelvin]

Glad to hear you had a good time in Font. Sometimes (often) easy circuiting is the way to go.

Cheers. Definitely helped being on my own for the first three days, avoiding the crowds and settling into the place. I even went to try and find Paradis but it would seem I found somewhere else altogether, somewhere that hadn't been climbed on for donkey's years. There were numbers on boulders tho and one vertical thing of about high 6 that had been tried this summer after being cleaned - bad landings in general however. Even found a mad old bivy shelter.

[Schnell]

STG: finish thesis this week while retaining mental balance. keep training for trip next week
MTG: only a week or so away but still: 7b(+) os in italy route trip, 7B boulder sometime soon.

M. working feverishly on thesis, bit of stretching
T. indoors in eve, reasonable session though didn't have time to get through full campus/FB workout. getting 1-3-5 on right (weak) side pretty consistently. time to change things up I'd say.
W.
T. more indoors. bit of campusing and FB again. very tired session with work taking its toll. missed an ancap session because I ran out of time.
F.
S. first time on granite bouldering since before the summer, was tempted out by forecasted cold weather but it was still too warm in the end. absolutely trashed skin, worked a sandbagged and slopery 7A and then did a soft 7A with 6 tips taped.
S. tried indoor training, but skin was too ruined. I did some campusing on massive rungs and sloper/ball things. tried some new exercises going 1-3-5 to top as fast as possible which was really difficult, inspiration from the german bouldering team training vid. Not sure how relevant it is though.

Decent week considering my main focus is getting the thesis done. Unsurprisingly I have to be ultra careful about injuries given stress/sleep deprivation, but the lack of time to train is helpful here. Hopefully i'll be recovered for the trip next week.

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Went on my board first time climbing in 5 weeks. Cut a hole in the top of an old pair of Kantanas that I had resoled, so my swollen toe could stick out. Climbed ok and was not too bad.
Wed. Turbo 1 hour. Had my foot scanned, don't get the results till 10 days time though.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Bike 73 miles 4 hrs 2 mins 18 mph felt hard windy.
Sun. Bike 77 miles 4 hrs 27 mins 17.28 mph. Hillier ride than yesterday going ok.
Foot feels a bit better this week, still feels sore most of the time though.

[shark]

11.5-6 (not weighed myself since Friday though)

M.
T. AM. Tor with Tom. Finally sorted a good sequence to turn the rib on Ben's using an extra kneebar. Tom did THFML
W.
T. Eve. Tor with Tom. Cool temps but holds seemed glassy. Realised that the sequence I sussed on Tuesday will require two kneepads which seems excessive. Was crap on starting moves. Squawk showed up. Threw towel in and dogged up Tin Off and managed to Top rope in a oner - just. Failed to top rope a second time. Shit session
F.
S-M Devon Failed to show adequate restraint in the face of Mum's home cooking 

Going through the motions at the moment. Dreading getting on the scales tomorrow. Will start doing some more PE / endurance work this week. End is in sight with the extension so should be able to reclaim our house from the builders in the next 2/3 weeks tough the work is far from finished. Have recruitment work to do. 10 more days before kids go back to school. Should have decks cleared for Malham campaign mid September. Hopefully have the psyche for it by then 

[csl]

August Goals

Stick to training plan - shit week - had to sack off weekend trip cos of work, so should have trained instead! Stupid midweek drinking really messed me up.
Outside x4 2/4
Onsight more E5
Sport - RP something reasonably hard - hopefully get Tennessee done next session.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Bouldering - 60 problems v3-6. Pullups.
Wed - Nowt
Thu - Nowt
Fri - Nowt
Sat - AnCap + Core
Sun - Nowt

Rest week now - not that i need it. Gotta knuckle down with training and prioritise climbing. Should have a day trip Thursday, weather dependant.

[shark]

S - A.M. Back to Crunch buttress. Warmed up at Rubicon, then put clips in Agent Provocateur. One cold fingers RP, then fired it next go (cold fingers, so spent longer than expected at the jug). Quickest I've done an 8a+

Well done. Looks really good in the video you posted last week. The style and difficulty of the climbing looks to be similar to the first half of the Oak.

[T_B]

Thanks. I've only had a quick play on the Oak, but AP is less undercutty. It's also a nice aspect being in the trees and not getting much sun. Definitely recommended...

[Luke Owens]

I'm still suffering from mega tight forearms, no amount of stretching seems to be helping... After Monday's flash pump epic It effected my whole week, crampy/tight feeling constantly...crazy.

M: Llanymynech - Didn't warm up and tried to onsight Rapture of the Deep 7a/+, bad idea. Got hideous flash pump didn't recover from it, didn't work any moves in the upper half and went for a redpoint. Fell high up trying to onsight that section.

T: Rest

W: Involved in a car accident (car went into the back of me) on the way to Llanymynech. My car and I were fine but had to stay ~2 hours giving info/statement. Got to the crag at 7pm...

Got straight on Rapture of the Deep fell off at the start, worked better beta for this, had a redpoint and fell at the top section again. Last redpoint of the evening my foot slipped when I was at the chains...

T: Llanymynech - Did the classic "This Won't Hurt" 7a 2nd go. Should of flashed it really, fell after the hard bit trying to commit to a crap hold.

Had yet another headtorch go on Rapture of the Deep, greased off after the crux - becoming a bogey route...

F: Drove to Dorset, didn't get there until 1am so girlfriend and I slept in the car.

S: Late start on Portland, Onsighted some easy classics on Blacknor:

Go With the Flow - 6a
Pregnant Pause - 6a+
Burning Skies - 6b+
Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation - 6b+

S: Back on Blacknor onsighting again:

Imperfect - 3+
Talk - 6a+
Toe the Line - 6b
Cut Throat Jake - 6b
Bum Droplets - 6b+
Sacred Angel - 7a (2nd go)

Had planned to go do Freeborn Man yesterday but the weather was hideous all day, took 10 hours to drive a 5 hour journey home...

Looking over the guidebook again I wish I had visited the Battleship area. The 30m wall looks incredible. Really love the rock and climbing style down on Portland. Happy with my fitness on the longer routes, recovery is quick after hard sections or on easy ground.

[duncan]

Just back from a very wet trip to Switzerland. Very wet.

Seems to be the story of the summer.

Baby is getting ok at sleeping.

Sounds promising. That's pretty quick.

STG: Bouldering for strength or fingerboarding twice a week. Stay uninjured. Lose 2kg.
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland.

Weight: 73.6kg

M - Westway bouldering. Projecting individual problems of the v2/3 stamina circuit (aka The Poles' warm-up).
T -
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Micro fingerboard session.
F - Drive to Isle of Wight
S - Bucket 'n' spadery
S - Bucket 'n' spadery
M - Drive back from Isle of Wight, shoulder stability stuff.
T - Westway bouldering.
W -
T - Westway. Aerobic endurance: 3x15 mins on F6a-ish, constant mild pump.
F -
S - Short fingerboard session. Manchester, family.
S - Manchester, family.

Mostly catching up with the family. IoW pleasant, in a UKIP-voting sort of way. Emphatically no climbing (I’ve already done Skeleton Ridge. Two finger board and bouldering sessions, feeling a little less lumpen. Far too heavy.

Plan: attempt to get out onto real rock this week. All weekends to the start of October are booked with RSOs, so this may be the last opportunity for some time. Continue focusing on strength with a small amount of Aerocap. to maintain something for the occasional days out.