[SA Chris]

Holds that will still be still be climbable after the first night of use. Certain manufacturers' slopers seem to clag up really quickly and can never be cleaned up.

Or have a badly produced texture that goes glassy within days of the hold being first used. Some manufacturers can get it spot on, others should be able to too.

[tomtom]

Holds that will still be still be climbable after the first night of use. Certain manufacturers' slopers seem to clag up really quickly and can never be cleaned up.

Or have a badly produced texture that goes glassy within days of the hold being first used. Some manufacturers can get it spot on, others should be able to too.

Or have holds that are agonisingly sharp the first times they are used.. (I'm looking at you Core...)


ALSO... a personal plea..


NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...

[SA Chris]

sharpness was mentioned earlier. No need.

[dave]

To be fair I think most brands of hold are agonising when new and need bedding in. Those which aren't are probably the ones that turn to glass after week 1.

[Fiend]

Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.

My loathing for Holdz is well known but needless to say I'd rather spend 2 hours deadhanging on one Axis hold than do one problem on Holdz even if Jacky Godoffe had set it.

[tomtom]

sharpness was mentioned earlier. No need.

One repeat and you cut me down...

[SA Chris]

Sorry if I was(n't) blunt.

[tomtom]

Sorry if I was(n't) blunt.

No problem. This conversation... It's been a slice.

[SamT]

NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...

+1

- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork  )

[Neil F]

Just to add a bit of balance to this thread (at the risk of being shot down), I think the route setting at Awesome Sheffield is excellent, as do my mates and lots of other folk I've spoken to there...

...and I have climbed on enough walls to appreciate good route setting, and also recognise the mundane when I have the misfortune to encounter it.

Neil

[highrepute]

NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...

+1

- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork  )

to be fair to Dave. I remember he held a poll (probably on fb) regarding this and the majority of people wanted sandtex by some margin. More like real rock init.

[highrepute]

My gripe with AW Sheffield is the lack of easy bouldering.

therein lies the rub. Beginners want loads of easy climbing, others want more hard problems. you can't please everyone and you can end up pleasing no one.

With the space they have at Sheffield I think they could please everyone.

One slab would be nice.

[galpinos]

Just to add a bit of balance to this thread

Well, with regard to AW Stockport, I think the responses have been positive overall. For boulderinjg, it’s by far the best wall in Mancsheter. Rockover should beat it hands down (great comp wall, loads of space, training area) but it doesn’t, it’s rubbish in comparison.

However, when people are given a forum in which to moan/suggest changes, they will, which maybe gives an overall negative impression. Dave did a poll on Facebook about improvements to Stockport and, like this thread, everyone wants something different.

[SA Chris]

NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...

+1

- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork  )

I always get grazes on wrists, elbows, knuckles too (i know, diddums). Guess it's what I get for being a bit slappy. I call it having ninja hands.

[creek]

AW Stoke is crying out for a second board in the training area upstairs.
The jugs and weird 'systems' board thing to the left of the moonboard are entirely pointless and never get used. We've been mithering Stu about it for months/years now but it seems to be falling on deaf ears.
Wouldn't take much effort to get it sorted and ease the traffic on the moonboard in the evenings.

 

I second this post as countless times I have questioned the jug board,"crack thing" and tiny systems board (not even an arm length wide) and asked if the moon board could be extended even offering to start up a fund bucket for the wood if the wall couldn't afford it. I know a lot of people staff included at stoke have been asking pestering and complaining about this for years but it does feel that the free water is more important than listening to customer feed back

[Sloper]

Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.

My loathing for Holdz is well known but needless to say I'd rather spend 2 hours deadhanging on one Axis hold than do one problem on Holdz even if Jacky Godoffe had set it.

Agree, there's simply no excue for making painfall holds and no excuse x10 ³ for buying them

[will_s87]

Climb at AW stoke on average 2-3 times a week.

Observations;

The centre is successful, primarily because your fortunate enough to have 2 very good route setters, IMO they keep the place a float I suspect this is a point that is overlooked or taken for granted.

Downstairs:

Problem: Too many aretes seriously impact the options available to setters. Routes become similar in there nature because invariably there is an arete to hand. Set after set
Proposal: Board out internal corners. Even a doing 1 or 2 corners would create much more face climbing.

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Upstairs: As previously mentioned the systems board doesn't work because its only 700mm wide. Take it down, match the  moon board angle. You would make lots of regulars happier customers.

The centre has potential and your lucky to have excellent staff, it's unfortunately let down by an inefficient use of space, most of which can be easily rectified.

[account_inactive]

Boulder UK, amazing on all points. That is all

[wiain]

Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.

Fiend, you are my new best friend. If you could just plug my other hold brands too I'll have your children*






*Subject to CRB check and T&Cs. Prize may be swapped for a Lapis Brush at discrection of organisers.....

[Oldmanmatt]

Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.

Fiend, you are my new best friend. If you could just plug my other hold brands too I'll have your children*






*Subject to CRB check and T&Cs. Prize may be swapped for a Lapis Brush at discrection of organisers.....

You can mail me your catalogues and trade prices, I'll PM you.

[Fiend]

Can I just have the Lapis Brush instead?

It was a very genuine comment....meet me at a wall and I will waffle on about those holds in way that make the Fussies from The Thing seemk interesting and non-geeky...

The others I rate are some of the Volx holds and of course Bleaustone.

[wiain]

The others I rate are some of the Volx holds and of course Bleaustone.

Nice try but I'm only responsible for one of them :-) Have to agree with you on Volx though, even though I don't sell them, they do some great holds.