Don’t think it has been mentioned on UKB yet that Tom Newman climbed a right hand finish to Mirf’s Roof and called it Burly McMirfy. Tom gave it 8A+ and it looks every bit of that on his vid of it, but Ned found an alternative sequence which dropped it to 7C+/8A. Why the split grade – Ned tends to shrug when I ask about grades, but it’s probably harder than Witness the Churnetness, but that is probably overgraded at 8A. The new climbing can be done from a kneeling start at the good lip holds of Mirf’s at 7B+ and has a great Master Kush style helicopter move.
Mirf’s RoofNed climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.
Quote from: Bonjoy on August 21, 2014, 12:36:10 pmMirf’s RoofNed climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.Was down here today. Due to not reading this post/guide properly I thought Journey to the... was the line marked in the guide as a project (couldn't remember the name at the time) and was going to be a 7B and the one to the right was some thing done ages ago, anyhow, I did the left hand mantle which felt about 7B but from reading this post again it looks like this may in fact be new? I then did Journey... which felt closer to the proposed 7B+ than 7C+. Also linked the Mirf's Roof start into Journey. Felt a fair bit harder than the stand version but not outrageous, it was very warm though (I was so hot I ended up climbing it in just my pink underpants, luckily only Klem was with me and he has shit eyesight so will be ok I think) Guess I would go with 7C+ but it could be easier or harder who knows - I couldn't even do the moves on the near by The Unicorn which is 7B so maybe everything on the Witness block should be 7A+. Haven't got a name yet for either, if in fact they are new.
Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.
A quite wide pinch? (Stop sn**gering Dolly and Plattsy..)
Have done it with and without slot, seemed much the same difficulty-wise. So I guess the pinch way is easier if you don't like deep egyptians.Re that slot. I know it looks drill but I can't be. When I cleaned the line it was partly blocked with a calcite crystal, which obviously took millennia to form. The rock is fossil rich reef limestone, so a crystal filled void is most likely to be the body cavity of a brachiopod. Sounds weak, but it's the truth, honest.
Yes have seen other holes, one has a nail in it. Just can,t see how a discrete 2 inch cavity can grow a half inch crystal in the geologically miniscule perio since drills were invented .
