[tresor]

Picked up climbing after  6 year long hiatus and can't for my Life remember why I even started the hiatus. Problem is my pair of Scarpa Reflex that was hibernating deep within my wardrobe is starting to fall apart aftar 2 years of use. The store there I bought them have stopped selling Scarpa shoes and it seems there is no store at all in Sweden selling this brand. Found one online store but they have mostly odd sizes left
Their Reflex model doesn't look at all like the ones I got so maybe not the same shoe at all anymore?

The description says that it's a comfy shoe, I love it, and suitable for beginners, would I perform better with another model? and will Another model from scarpa be as nice to my feet as this one? Had another pair from Scarpa before these and I liked them too and what I can remember Scarpa is the only brand I tried in the stores that I feel comfortable in.


//Tresor

[a dense loner]

a lot of people seem to wear the orange scarpa's now (instinct vs), bit downturned but not too much. if you last climbed 6 years ago you'll find scarpas have improved a lot as well

[tim palmer]

instincts might be a bit aggressive if you have not climbed for a couple of years, I would think about 'Vapours' if you want something with a bit more performance than the reflex but still relatively comfy. 
I would be cautious about buying shoes online without trying them on.

[tresor]

Seem's I have to give up Scarpa. the two online shops I know about that have free returns if the shoes doesn't fit are out of sizes that have a remote chance to fit.

Any other brand anyone would recomend if Scarpas seems to fit my feet well? or maybe my 8 years old experiences isn't worth anything.



//Tresor

[tim palmer]

The fit of scarpa has stayed the same really (hence why I have never changed shoe brand), from a little dabble I thought la sportiva miura and katana were pretty similar in fit but the sizing is very different.  does your local shop stock them?

[tomtom]

instincts might be a bit aggressive if you have not climbed for a couple of years, I would think about 'Vapours' if you want something with a bit more performance than the reflex but still relatively comfy. 
I would be cautious about buying shoes online without trying them on.

Buying shoes on spec is tricky.. like Tim I'd certainly recommending trying them on...

But if you want to take a punt at the scarpa's, I find the instinct slipper less agressive and more comfy than the instinct velcro.. What do you want the boot for? Bouldering, trad, walls - all of the above?

[mother]

I know of two physical stores that stock Scarpa footwear in Sweden. One's Fjällsport in Gothenburg, the other is Klättercentret in Stockholm (Telefonplan that I know of, maybe Solna as well), so if you're close to either of those two you can check that out I guess. Frankly though, I don't believe there's much specific about the "comfy" Scarpa models that make them any different from other brands. I suggest just trying some boots that feels just as good. Personally I'd say La Sportiva Miura, La Sportiva Katana or Five Ten Anasazi. Scarpa Vapor might be viable as well. If you really wanna go with the same old ("not that there's anything wrong with that"), I'm pretty sure Fjällsport stock either Reflex or Force, can't remember which.

[moose]

Caveat Emptor.... I get on very well with Sportivas (Miuras, Miura VS, Katanas), pretty well with 5.10s (Anasazi Verdes / VCS, less so Blancos), but Scarpas do not fit me at all well - bunch up my toes in a horrible fashion.

[tresor]

The reason I wanna find scarpa is that in the past it's the only brand I have found that fit my feet well without feeling painful. So thats what i wanna find. Being perfectly happy in my Reflex and doesn't feel that the shoes holds me back but would like to try something more performance oriented to see if that helps me with my bouldering.


More or less pass by Fjällsport in Gothenburg on my way to the bus but skipped them as they didn't have Scarpa as supplier on their webpage. Guess they have the other brands like La Sportiva, 5.10 and Evolv so I can try them also.


Thanks for all the help.

//Tresor

[tresor]

Caveat Emptor.... I get on very well with Sportivas (Miuras, Miura VS, Katanas), pretty well with 5.10s (Anasazi Verdes / VCS, less so Blancos), but Scarpas do not fit me at all well - bunch up my toes in a horrible fashion.

Would say that thats the complete opposite of my experience.

//Tresor

[mother]

Caveat Emptor.... I get on very well with Sportivas (Miuras, Miura VS, Katanas), pretty well with 5.10s (Anasazi Verdes / VCS, less so Blancos), but Scarpas do not fit me at all well - bunch up my toes in a horrible fashion.

I would agree with you on behalf of the more agressive Scarpa shoes, they seem to make mushy peas out of my big toes leaving abundance of comfort for my other toes -- when sizing really small that is.

Anyway, I know for a fact that Fjällsport carries Feroce and Vapor V from Scarpa. Also one of the "beginner" models, can't remember which one though. If you read on their site under assortment you'll see that it says "bla följande märken" ("these and more" for the curious)  so they carry more than just the brands displayed there. They also carry La Sportiva Katana Velcro and Five Ten Anasazi VCS, both of which I suggest you try out, they might just be for you!

[tresor]

Went there during lunch and picked up a pair of Feroce, they were actually comfier than Vapors for me. The Vapors did what most other climbing shoes does, not just as much, and put a lot of preassure on the outer/upper part of the joint on my big toe. Going down a half size from what I thought was a nice fit made it a little better but the feroce didn't put preassure on that spotand I get the chance to try an aggresive shoe.

Tried some other shoes but but didn't really like any other than the Miuras VCS and after all this to find scarpas I couldn't really buy what I had under my noose all the time could I

//Tresor