My thinking has always been that adding weight doing hard dynamic movement like bouldering is a recipe for injury. I like added weight for controlled FB, but not more than 5-10 lbs for campus and none when bouldering. That said, I do like it for foot on campusing as a way to train on bigger holds with more weight on your hands while still maxing out your pump.
I am thinking more of steep powerful problems where added weight increases difficulty of single moves rather than technical problems where it may lead to a change of sequence.
I always prefer static anyway, my general idea is to add weight and be as static and controlled as possible on a board and train power on a campus board with less added weight.
Training for bouldering or routes? If bouldering, don't "train" static movement. Heck, don't train static unless you're aiming for hard scary trad where you need 100% These two posts seem to be a bit at odds with each other.
This is why I posted though, to get tips! Would you suggest training power with added weight to be more beneficial?
Quote from: AMorris on August 15, 2014, 08:19:59 pmThis is why I posted though, to get tips! Would you suggest training power with added weight to be more beneficial?No. For training power, my preference is to do training that emphasizes recruitment, both in speed of movement and contact strength. For either of these purposes, added weight isn't generally going to improve the training. Campusing is good for this, as is steep dynamic board climbing.
Stating the bleeding obvious but... if you do use a weight vest then make sure all your landings are slow and in control. Hard landings with extra weights is a recipe for ruptured disks.