[mindfull]

SG: Get rid of brace, restore basic functions left-arm
MG: Boulder up to Font 6B-Route up to French 7a
LG: Boulder up to Font 7B-Route up to 8a

Remark: Stitches removed on wednesday. Get rid of brace next wednesday and start physio. Working towards some easy bouldering indoors next weekend :-)

MO:
- Stretching (9 min. Lower Body+Split)
- Tai Chi (18 min. WarmUp+24Form)
- Core (10 min. SitUps)
- RightArm (4x10 FeetOn OneArm PullUp)

TUE:
- Stretching (2x9min. LB+Split)
- Tai Chi (10 min. WU+24F)
- Core (10 min. SU)
- RightArm (4x10 FO OA PU)

WED:
- Tai Chi (10min. WU+24F)

THU:
- ST (9min. LB+Sp)
- Tai Chi (10 min. WU+24F)
- Core (10min. SU)
- RightArm (4x10 FO OA PU)

FRI:
Rest Day

SAT:
Rest Day

SUN:
- Stretching (9min. LB+Sp)
- Tai Chi (21min. Yang-Style)

[fried]

Nearly 4 weeks with no climbing. Had my first beach holiday in years, got a tan, swam (floated) a bit, ate good food.

On a tip from one of the missus' nephews I took a trip up into the  Besparmak mountains up behind lake Bafa, We drove for at least 2h through seemingly endless granite boulder fields. The scope for bouldering is unbelievable. The downside was that it was 35°C, so I didn't even bother putting on my shoes. I'll be back when it's cooler and I have a brush.

Sun - First indoor session, (just spent 3 days in the car and not even lovely conditions can get me to drive down to Font). Swimming in salt water has softened my skin up. Stop after a couple of hours with sore hands and feet.

Lost a kilo on holiday, probably muscle, but ate a really healty diet, lots of salad, vegatables, fruit and fish. And kebab of course.

[tomtom]

Sounds great Fried - I was intrigued by the area - and a very swift google turned up a pension that seems to market itself towards boulderers for the area....

http://selenespension.com/kaya-tirmanis?lng=tr-TR

[fried]

Just on the shore of lake Bafa are a good few pensions, prices were steep or I'm being stingy ( 160tl with evening meal for a doulble room) where we asked. A topo is available at a couple of the pensions, but when I was there I had no internet connection and couldn't remember which ones.

The missus' nephew advised us against lake Bafa itself in this period (smelly, mosquito infested), next time he's promised us a camping trip at a smaller lake up behnd the main one, only accessible by 4x4.

[tomtom]

M:

T: Torsday. Felt battered from Sundays wall session and warming up was hard. Had one futile attempt at Weedkiller and felt week, so decided to have a play on 'a little extra direct'. Excellent fun - and eventual success - holding the final move was fun - and the film below is of my 3rd from last attempt (I didnt really get the last hold in control on this one..).



I then went and played on Weedkiller and ran out of steam in the usual place.. and at 45 secs. At least I was on my own...

W:

Th: Thorsday. Met up with Shark at the Tor... he was employing underhand methods (think ladders but different) to try and do 'too hard for Mark Leach' in an efficient as possible method (his words..). I have potentially embarrasing pictures of this, but Shark is holding a hoody of mine I accidentally left there as hostage to prevent their publication Two/three attempts at Weedkiller - usual failure - feeling tired from Tuesday still - really I need two days off before a decent attempt.. Had some fun showing Shark how to do too hard for Mark Leach (he eventually caved into my beta) and managed the first few moves on Bens roof (pre knee bar number 1) in isolation (which was a first - so pretty happy). Left feeling suitably knackered....

F: Funeral in Leeds - a long, bitter/sweet day... few beers at the wake..

Sa: Hungover - felt dead and drained. Sat on the sofa, puked occasionally and watched the football results roll in... felt better in the evening and ventured out with MrsTT for some pub grub (fancy KFC really - and a lime and soda...)

Su: Well... what to do... crappy forecast... work to do... Tor plans with Nai formed during the day - and I decided to have another rest day. I may do some deadhangs in a moment - I may not..

Weight - well the scales mentioned 11st 4.6 at one point in the week, so its creeping off...

[csl]

August Goals

Stick to training plan - better week, elbows hurting though.
Outside x4 2/4
Onsight more E5
Sport - RP something reasonably hard - another session on Tennessee -  made some good progress.

Mon - AnCap
Tue - Rest
Wed am - Bouldering 60 problems v3-v6. Pullups + Offset Pullups
Thu pm - Campus. 4 attempts at 1-4-7, close.
1-4-6 x 3 each arm
1-3-6 x3 each arm
1-3-4-3-4-3-4-3-4-3-blah to failure. x2 each arm - Elbows feeling it after this.
Fri - nowt
Sat - Portland. Tennessee. 1 Bolt to Bolt, then managed to get all moves including top rockover crux sorted. 1 lead attempt linked from floor to 4 moves from rock-over, so the middle of the hard sequence. Did rockover and hard moves another few times to hammer them home.
Sun - Went to Lulworth - swell to scary. Went to Promenade - swell too big. Went to Dancing Ledge, did a 7a+ 2nd go and had one go on a 7b, should have done it!

 

[EdGowSmith]

Haven't posted last week's yet so I'll put it in here.

7A:    33/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    9/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    5/10

Stretches: 8/8 First time in ages!

Mon: Hartland with Ellis. Had a play on a few things but nothing hard.
Tues: Rest day.
Wed: Session at Bunker. Core, pull-ups and shoulder stuff. Fingerboarding, managed 7A+ Beastmaker feat, sandbag!
Thurs: Not exactly sure what I did this day or Friday, but set some new hard problems at the Bunker, did core and press-ups.
Fri: Anstey's with Adam in the evening. Did a classic 7b, was shitting myself, 2nd ever sport climb haha!
Sat: Tintagel, met Andy W there. Was hoping to do a 7C and got close but massive waves meant I had to stop trying it. Did the 7B stand though and another techy 7B. Vowed to return soon.
Sun: Rest day. Arms hurt!
Mon: Bunker with lots of people, trying the new dark greens, some are HARD. Bit of fingerboarding, systems boarding and pull-ups as well.
Tues: Session at the Bunker. Trying the new dark greens, fingerboarding and other stuff.
Wed: Hopes Nose. Finally got a 7C+ I had tried for a while. Aimed to do it before I was 17 and managed it by one day!
Thurs: AS results day and my birthday. Thankfully results were decent and so feeling psyched. Went to the Bunker for a bit, was going to train but just did some problems. Then Anstey's with Andy and Mark, did a 7b+ which felt nails!
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Tintagel. Awesome place! Did the 7C I tried last week second go from the start, felt piss. Did a pumpy 7B and then failed on another due to inflexibility. 
Sun: Anstey's with Andy and Kieron. Lead a 6c first go and then got beta sorted for the first half of The Cider Soak, psyched to do this. Fingerboarding and press-ups in the evening. Started CWP fingerboard program, but with shorter rests as I get bored. Let's see how this goes...

Well I wrote more than I usually do! These last two weeks have been good, feeling a lot stronger and have found a good stretching routine that seems to be working and keeps me motivated. Need to get back on The End is Nigh ASAP.

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7 and more development.
MTG: DWS Project.
LTG: V11.

Work and weather only allowed me to climb once this week but that one session was a good one...

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Lot 33. Warmed up on bunch of V4s. Quite close on V9 dyno (bad landing, big crew with lots of pads...) best single move in the country... Jumped back on V7 I'm close to. Managed to stick the crux bump, still quite sharp. Just the last big throw to the finish sloper, shouldn't be hard I just need to not pussy it like I have been. Had 2 goes on a V6 and nearly did it.
S: Fucking weather..... Had the day off but absolutely pissing it down. Grrr.

Joe, Joe Dynamo V9. Also the last move to Worm V13/14.....

[T_B]

84.4Kg

M -
T -
W - School lunch. Trying some harder problems on the 50 degree and making progress. Finished with 4 x warm up problem no rests. Light session. P.M. Shovelled a load of top soil for 1 hour.
T - Works circuit board. Had suspected I would be knackered from shovelling. I was. Managed 4 easier circuits then gave up and went home.
F -
S - 1/2 day outside climbing! Had thought about going to Thor's Cave, but not quite enough time. Psyched for somewhere new, so went to Moat. Did 6c+ then flash pump on-sighting the 7b+ next to it. Good go at the 7c but super bouldery. Did 1st RP. Then decided to have a go at Agent Provocateur (8a+) on Crunch buttress. Absolutely brilliant little route. Had two redpoints, fell off on move left to pocket, second to last move from the top. Well chuffed as tired by this point. Grateful to this film for beta
S -

Didn't do much this week, but Saturday made up for it. Great day on dry rock in perfect temps climbing well.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer) Any halfway decent alpine route
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

A route on the Totenkirchl, but not THE route on the Totenkirchl

This was supposed to be my Big Alpine Week for the summer. It turned out to be a week of desperately trying to get something, anything done in the pouring rain.

M: Kaisergebirge with lmarenzi, occasionally/formerly of this parish. Pouring rain. Reconnoitred the approach & start of the Totenkirchl West Face then went for a walk. Hillwalking in pouring rain in the Alps is better than in the UK because one gets to have one's lunch in a nice dry hut instead of huddled shivering behind a rock.
T: Kaisergebirge, more pouring rain. Reconnoitred the start of another route we're interested in, did one token pitch of wet VS between downpours, baled to hut & home. Contemplated whether to cancel rest of week's holiday in hope of better weather later, or look for partners to try to get something done somewhere.
W: Rain still pouring. Hillwalking, Estergebirge. Finally stood on top of the Hohe Kisten (redpoint Day Four yyfy). Feeling fit, would be nice to be able to use it for some actual climbing
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering & fingerboard.
F: Morning: attempt to go sport climbing at a nice little crag on the banks of the Danube. Ass kicked on a sandbagged 6c+ route; ass kicked on a sandbagged 7A traverse.
   Afternoon: rain. Banks of the Danube pub crawl; I highly recommend Gasthof Berghammer in Oberndorf.
   Evening: Wall, Thalkirchen. ARC traversing & fingerboard.
S: Walk back up to hut in the Kaisergebirge (in the rain, natch) on the promise of decent weather on Sunday.
S: Kaisergebirge, Totenkirchl. Finally decent weather. Started up Kirchl-Express, a 20-pitch UIAA sport route, but from pitch 4 onwards it turned out to be soaking wet. Backed off and did an 8 pitch VI-, Stripsenzahn, instead. This has rather too much Walking Up Rubble at the start but also some very good bits, and ends with some solid Type II fun in the form of a proper grade "V" Kaisergebirge chimney.

[the_dom]

Not the worst week, but derailed massively by turning 35 and the associated heavy drinking and bad eating.

Oh, and no climbing at all, in order to rest my ailing finger.

Mon: Hilly 9km run around my neighbourhood - felt fast.

Tues: Fantastic surprise surf in wedging, walling head high peaks followed by a core session at home. Good surf like that makes me immensely happy.

Wed: Tired after a long day at work, but snuck in a long-ish core session at home.

Thurs: Very hilly (for me) 12.5km run around the neighbourhood, followed by too much beer and bad food.

Fri: Morning surf. Big night of partying. Ooof.

Sat: Morning surf. Struggle to get out of bed. Evening 9km run.

Sun: Surf.

[shark]

11.6-7

M.
T. Malham with Tom (13) and Alex (16) Low psyche. Malham. Alex led YW as a warm up but Tom had a bit of a mare on it I led to clean belay to put TR on Space Race. Started self belaying on Oak to warm up and another crag regular offred to give me a belay. Felt really strong. Undercut by third bolt was wet though. Did throw straight off. Also linked undercut shake to top. Got belays off Alex after and concentrated on bottom and linked from ground to wet undercut. Got powered out quickly though. Tom TRed Space Race in a oner and Alex led it first redpoint. Arran was close on Overjustified. Stripped Raindogs for Alex and did YW clean again with some effort. Good day. Bit more psyched. Walked out in rain
W.
T. AM Tor with Poppy met tomtom there. Cool to start with but got warmer. Ended up re-engineering the finish of Ben's roof much to tomtom's glee. Had a go on other sections. Did first move as well as missed that out before but didnt link to kneebar. Last bit of traverese turning corner is still foxing me though - couldn't seem to do it again. Will experiment with high right heel instead of toe having looked at videos. Eve. Fingerboard. Did a bit better on crimps but too blown to do drags. did a few pullups
F.
S.
S. AM Malham with Tom Fresh conditions. I wasnt really up for it but was keen for Tommy to do Space Race which he ended up doing    (first 7b+) Had a few goes on the Oak. Thought I was going to wreck my dicky shoulder but was OK. Tommy's belaying was OK too. Struggled to get going - best go was from ground to setting up for throw but only had 3 fingers in undercut. Think I will stick to plan leave till autumn even though autumn seems to have arrived early.

My left shoulder has been giving me some gyp at night waking me up and feeling like it is trying to discolate itself or locked out of position. Been taping it into a better neutral position and sleeping on my back for the last couple of days which seems to be working.

Generally feeling run down and tired. Maybe when all the renovation projects have finished and the builders have gone Ill get my old psyche back. Just need to keep turning the wheel in the meantime   

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers. Feeling more normal than they have done for ages now. YYFY.
2014 goals- 20 14 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport.

M- Back from Pembroke a day early, luckily Black Rocks was both dry and cool. Climbed a few new (to me) routes and filmed my mate realising he can't jam. 

T- Rest.

W- Rest.

T- Rest.

F- Rest.

S- Rest. Walking round Weston-super-Mare eating sweets. Too cold for swimming!

S- Walk around Cheddar Gorge. Hadn't really thought much about the climbing here before going down but obviously bought the guidebook as soon as I saw climbers. I now need to do Coronation Street. 

[Schnell]

STG: finish thesis (due end of august) while retaining mental balance. Keep training for trip in September and get a few days out, ideally on a rope before going. Don't get injured.
MTG. 7b(+) onsight in italy in sept

M.
T. indoor training, trying 1-3-5 on the campus small rungs. get it most goes now.
W. 'active rest' ie doing easy climbing focusing on technique.
T. not sure is it stress or the active rest is too strenuous, but feel flat. Can't do any campusing so give up and do foot on campusing/ancap. Getting a lot better at this.
F.
S. Outdoor bouldering for first time in ages at a scrappy seaside venue.. Started on 7B and had all moves quickly. Will go back for this one, got a relatively hard new to me 7A done.
S. indoor session, dubious about the energy levels after sunday but actually had a great coffee-fueled session.  back on track with the campusing.

[Sasquatch]

STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder (2 done)
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M- Bike in Squamish, music fest
T- Tried to climb in AM, but super wet, warm and humid.  did a few v1's and OS a v5, but nothing else.
W- FB MAW, good session
T- Nothing
F- FB MAW - Matched PB, will go down in hold size from 18mm to 16mm for next session. Levers, and Abs.
S- Nothing-really sore, friends baby shower, so prepping through most of day, then eating and drinking too much in evening.
S- Soccer, feel like I might be getting a cold or something. 

School starts this week, plus wedding anniversary on Friday, so likely no getting outside, more training instead.  Psyched to see how strong I can make my fingers.   

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbells then deadhanging. Did 3 repeaters to finish.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Same session as Monday.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Sat. Bike 80 miles 4 hs 32 mins. A right battle with the wind at times. Foot reasonably ok.
Sun. Turbo 1 hour.
Still struggling with motivation at times. Foot a bit better at times but its still swollen and hurts like shit at times. Scan next week.

[french erick]

Quiet a few folks doing well then! Well done.

STG: rehabilitate my finger pulley.
any other goal will have to wait.

This week I haven't done much except for keeping my routine stretch and incorporating  20 push-ups in it. Put some core too.
My excuse is that my 2nd child was born Wednesday at 3 am (Hospital since Tuesday 4pm). I am wondering if this is enough of an excuse to slacken off as much

I have however found out I can jam without pain (just playing around so unknown if that would apply for a structured length of time).

As one would expect I am tired by my lack of sleep... I am never  again!!!! Consequences are disastrous

[tomtom]

My excuse is that my 2nd child was born Wednesday at 3 am (Hospital since Tuesday 4pm). I am wondering if this is enough of an excuse to slacken off as much

Congratulations! a perfect excuse to not work and train...

[Luke Owens]

My excuse is that my 2nd child was born Wednesday at 3 am (Hospital since Tuesday 4pm). I am wondering if this is enough of an excuse to slacken off as much

Congratulations!