[tomtom]

Hi all,
Was trying this today, and I wasnt really sure where it started. Therees a really obvious big slopey sidepull/layaway and I ended up trying to stand up with the RH on that and LH on a low crimp on the face... Felt really hard and I only had a couple of go's where I could throw up to a fairly sharp double crimp with my LH..

But having come back and seen a couple of vids, folk seem to go off another sidepull to the left of the big layaway and cast up to the crimps above... is that the normal method?

At the end of the session I went and did Negative reality inversion (cool name!) which is a superb problem - but felt more like 6B than 6C+... I started with a LH on a sidepul around the left of the arete (cleaned and chalked) and was not sure if it was a lank thing, or whether it just suited my grit training a bit more than the other problems I tried.. Felt positive but spicy with one pad and on my own!

TT

[Fiend]

I did NRI second go I think. I took it to mean that I was actually awesome, although it might be soft touch. HTH.

[GCW]

7:10 onwards. Middle Earth technically starts with your right on the bigger sidepull right of the one I used. Weak Sam said my start was ok, but I gave a lower grade to keep the beta police happy.

[tomtom]

Thanks GCW, I was try g it with the large sidepull and it felt desperate... I saw your beta when I got back.. 

[James Malloch]

I also used the closer sidepull, felt closer to 6C/+ than 7B. Cool little problem though, kentmere is a great venue!

[Danny]

Seem like a pretty high start for the badger arete sitter too 

[tomtom]

I also used the closer sidepull, felt closer to 6C/+ than 7B. Cool little problem though, kentmere is a great venue!

Its an odd problem to find - its not really a clear line and there are quite a few random/odd crimps on the wall. Anyway - looks like a fun set of moves..

So is it 7A+/7B from the big sloper? as that feels like it might be about right (I couldnt do it but its in the upper end of my range..)...

[GCW]

Badger arête was from sitting :-)
Yes, 7b from the big slopy sidepull.

[tomtom]

Had another crack at this today.. Funny - I couldn't get going on the nearer sidepull (felt too bunched up) but tickled the top edge of the crimp in two attempts from the big (7B) sidepull/flatly.

Pissed off I didn't manage it - but ran out of skin..

[tomtom]

(Flatty that should be)

[lagerstarfish]

not Flatley?

[tomtom]

not Flatley?

He keeps dabbing and claiming the problem... (wears evolv boots too..)

[thekettle]

Hold snappage on Middle Earth made it a grade or 2 easier in summer 2012, now pretty eliminate if you want the 7B tick.
Negative Reality Inversion starts pretty low to get full value from the grade, and ignore any incut holds around the arete (basically one slopey sidepull is in L of the arete). The sitter feels less eliminate as you can't start high and skip moves!

[georgenorth]

The left side of the arete on NRI used to be covered in moss meaning you had to stay on the right, which is about 6c+/7a. Now that the moss has been stripped off, more holds have been revealed on the left meaning you can climb the arete more directly at about 6B+. Middle Earth is IMO a shit (and now eliminate) problem - Reverence (7a+) up on the Giant Stone is miles better (not to mention all the great problems on the Garburn Pass Boulder), but not being a soft touch gets far less traffic!

[GCW]

Hold snappage on Middle Earth made it a grade or 2 easier in summer 2012, now pretty eliminate if you want the 7B tick.

My video is from 2008 btw.  When I was less fat.

[Stubbs]

Reverence (7a+) up on the Giant Stone is miles better (not to mention all the great problems on the Garburn Pass Boulder), but not being a soft touch gets far less traffic!

Agreed Reverence is great, although would be quite exciting without a spot! Weasel problems also worthwhile.

[tomtom]

The left side of the arete on NRI used to be covered in moss meaning you had to stay on the right, which is about 6c+/7a. Now that the moss has been stripped off, more holds have been revealed on the left meaning you can climb the arete more directly at about 6B+. Middle Earth is IMO a shit (and now eliminate) problem - Reverence (7a+) up on the Giant Stone is miles better (not to mention all the great problems on the Garburn Pass Boulder), but not being a soft touch gets far less traffic!

Yup - I'd give NRI 6B+ I started with a slopey sidepull about 30cm left around the arete and LF on a nice flatty on the LH side - the rest was all up the arete and face... Superb climbing at this grade. Great problem.

Hold snappage on Middle Earth made it a grade or 2 easier in summer 2012, now pretty eliminate if you want the 7B tick.

My video is from 2008 btw.  When I was less fat.

I tired it your way and if felt harder than using the large sidepull! Kettle - what are the new/different holds that have appeared? there were several small crimps, but none seemed to make it any easier for me!

Reverence (7a+) up on the Giant Stone is miles better (not to mention all the great problems on the Garburn Pass Boulder), but not being a soft touch gets far less traffic!

Agreed Reverence is great, although would be quite exciting without a spot! Weasel problems also worthwhile.

Persuading MrsTT up to the Pass boulder to read the paper whilst I failed would have been a big ask