[kelvin]

STG - Get from 75.2kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)

http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15234.html

Not sure what your style is but i ticked this slab last year, when I was having a good day all round. Felt a bit eliminate. The friction is good in that area, seems so to me anyway.
The some nice 6As round that way too.


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[fried]

I love Oiseaux. I'll put it on my list of unfinished stuff to do in the area. You're right about the friction.

[andy popp]

Goals: as ever.

M - ? Resting and working I think.
T - board, first time in weeks. Actually not too bad, didn't feel so heavy.
W - Work, no doubt. I got promoted last week and work was been extremely full on this week.
T - intervals on the fingerboard, bit more serious than the experimental go last week
F - ditto. Felt almost completely rested before starting but faded very slightly earlier - obviously wasn't quite as recovered as I thought.
S - long day down to London and back for university open day with daughter
S - out early to try Harmers project, again. Conditions still not great. Agonisingly close to doing the start. Did "Otter's Pocket' 6B/C or so, which I'd never done before, at the end.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured. Do some training. Climb something long and fairly hard (for me) in Switzerland in September.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.



M - micro fingerboard session
T -
W - Westway: 5 x 10mins on /10 mins off at around 6a+. Good aerobic capacity session.
T -
F -
S - fly to Zurich. Some easy stuff at Schillingsflue, drove up to Wendenalp to camp.


View from Wendenalp. Pfaffenhut is the highest buttress, on the left, Sonnenkoenig takes the left arête.


S - Sonnenkoenig. Late start due to partying idiots, I think this was locals hooning around as it sounded like they drove back down the valley.  900m uphill approach, 1 hour 45 mins, with the last 30 mins up the typical steep grass.


Pfaffenhut




Andy on pitch 1. Sonnenkoenig.

We did the first 8 pitches, to the ledge where it meets the abseil descent. The opening 6a+(++) pitch was a real welcome to Wendenstock moment. Great climbing, technical slabby limestone, lots rocking-up in the hope a hold would materialise. Typically a hard move fairly near the bolt or thread, then running it out up not-quite-so-hard ground. I really enjoy this style, commitment required but not much real danger most of the time...

M - Spasspartout. This was great too. The approach was relatively unserious, but still 700m ascent. Excellent climbing, slightly spoilt by a big grassy ledge before the final two pitches. These were really good, on immaculate rock with the characteristic water runnels, so not to be missed. The logbook had records of the last 5 years, great to read Ruth Oschener’s name a couple of times, but no Brits. Where are you?  The grade 6a (5a obl.) is a laugh, 6b+ (6a), more realistic, but this is still probably the easiest route here and a good introduction to the place. The view leftwards into the arena of Reissend Nollen is most impressive.


Andy high on Spasspartout


T-T - rain, sporadic attempts to climb at Lehn and Neuhaus (did a nice 6c+ up the prow on the latter). Came down with a cold.
F - Drove up to Wendenstock again on the promise of a decent weather forecast but previous three days rain meant waterfalls down several routes, snow on the higher areas, and the approaches looked lethal.



S-S - Lehn, still struggling with cold, not much climbing, fly home.

So finally got to climb at Wendenstock. It completely lived up to it’s reputation for excellent climbing on superb rock in a spectacularly and committing setting. I loved it and can’t wait to go back. I’m fairly sure we did the two easiest routes there and I'm not sure what comes next. I’d have liked to have got on Excalibur (as hard, but more serious?) and Patent Oschner was a popular choice that weekend (7a, but well protected?). It's a great incentive to improve, if you can consistently onsight 7a+, and deal with all the other stuff, there are numerous amazing route to go at. Andy has written more about the trip on his blog, linked from the Long, Hard and Free thread.

[Wood FT]

Nice one Duncan, that last picture looks like the ramparts of a very scary castle.

[T_B]

Nice pics Duncan, sounds great.

I've only been once and we did the first 9 (?) pitches of Caminando to the cave. Twas excellent and the approach not as steep as for Pfaffenhut.

Also did a similar number of pitches on something just to the right of your route on the Pfaffenhut. There was a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground!

We based ourselves at the campsite in Innertkirchen and drove up each day. However, we got into a frustrating cycle of early starts then bad weather coming in mid-morning, then being too knackered the following day to make another early start only for it to be a bluebird day 


 

[duncan]

I've only been once and we did the first 9 (?) pitches of Caminando to the cave. Twas excellent and the approach not as steep as for Pfaffenhut.

Also did a similar number of pitches on something just to the right of your route on the Pfaffenhut. There was a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground!

We based ourselves at the campsite in Innertkirchen and drove up each day. However, we got into a frustrating cycle of early starts then bad weather coming in mid-morning, then being too knackered the following day to make another early start only for it to be a bluebird day 

Caminando looks amazing, it had a few teams on it as it's a 'Petit' tick. We saw waterfalls down the introductory slabs as in your UKC photo when we went back up on Friday, definitely needs stable weather.

The lid is on Patent Ochsner; how did you find it?
(Ochsner are big waste management company in Switzerland, as well as the name of the first ascentionist, hence the bin lid...).

There were about 10 teams on the crag on Saturday when we arrived, but only 3 or so on the Sunday despite glorious weather. I think most people found one route quite enough for a weekend.

[Muenchener]

Excellent Duncan.

The approaches and the grades sound similar to the Gesäuse. Quite Long, Fairly Hard and Blatantly Sandbagged.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Rebolt project routes, and 8A/+ project.
MTG - Good trip to Tahoe - at least one 8A, and hopefully flash a couple of 7C's.  Good Winter Training.
LTG - Finish project routes, and To Bolt. 

M-Shoulder Rehab, Bench Press
T-Shoulder Rehab, Deadlift, Boulder, FB
W-Cardio, Doc Appt - said shoulder is a bit of inflammation(impingement).  Ice and Vitamin I for 1-2 weeks, then if not better, then he'll give rX for some rehab. 
T-Shoulder Rehab, Boulder, Squats, Rows
F-Shoulder Rehab, OH Press, Boulder
S-Shoulder Rehab, Climb w/ Wife
S-Rest, Work

Very active week.  Dropping weight all week, then had friends over for dinner on Friday which started the weekend binge....  Back to Square 1 on Monday.

Into working 7 days a week to get personal business off the ground.  Going to be a crazy month or two. 

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing shoulder/bicep sore.
Tue. Bike 1hr 20 mins.
Wed. Board shoulder/ bicep felt okish.
Thu. Sore
Fri. Sore.
Sat. Bike 2hrs
Sun. Bike 3 hrs.

[Fiend]

still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???

The very obvious way to raise your goals would be to work on improving style, i.e. onsighting routes rather than headpointing mid-extreme stuff. There's loads in the Peak and it would definitely be a way to improve.

[ashtond6]

still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???

The very obvious way to raise your goals would be to work on improving style, i.e. onsighting routes rather than headpointing mid-extreme stuff. There's loads in the Peak and it would definitely be a way to improve.

Yeah I agree but I'm not interested in climbing to get hurt, so I'm trying to only headpoint routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash

I don't actually think there are that many really safe (my version of safe) E4/5 in the peak, the ones that are, I'm putting off so I can absolutely guarantee a flash (probably not the greatest idea!)

Congrats on your recent purple patch in Wales

[mr chaz]

STG More 7Cs and 8as
LTG 8A 8b

M. Wall, BBC. 30mins on 40degree, tired from weekend.
T. Wall, BBC. Antagonist workout, tried a few hardish problems, still tired.
W. Wall, Boulder Central. Decent number of problems done, few V6 and 7s.
T. Well needed rest
F. Rest, and got myself an interview for Monday, this time in Harrogate - would love to relocate there so fingers crossed.
S. Rest
S. Rest

[abarro81]

routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash

One thing climbing has taught me is that you never know what might become an onsight/flash objective 5 years down the line... goals and aspirations can move upwards a lot!

[ashtond6]

routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash

One thing climbing has taught me is that you never know what might become an onsight/flash objective 5 years down the line... goals and aspirations can move upwards a lot!

Yeah fingers crossed! I'm using that hope for harder safer routes.  still doubt i'll have any desire to onsight routes like monopoly etc!
I found after E3, theres not tooooo many safe E4's & the safe ones are quite a jump in difficulty (Strapadictomy/Profit of Doom etc)
Wheras headpointing seems to help keep me improving & stops me continually repeating stuff I've already done 

[shurt]

Tue - kettlebell swings, weights complex, triceps, shoulder barbell carry, abs. This finisher here . The barbell carry is brutal. Fantastic find!

Your finisher alone would finish me off for a week... Nice one.

OK
there are some goals which seem further away than previously

m - bank holiday family fun (pretty good actually)
t - finally got to Berry Head albeit for an evening session with Bruce the Stonemason, first time climbing there so was looking forward to it. Hadn't fully realised that the morning gets the sun so will not be repeating this in September. Did Cavewoman to the block and then back out, up and round. Think some people call it Cavewoman in and out, 6c so they say. It was no warm up though and my arms took a while to recover. Bruce did White Rhino Tea (had it wired) I decided not to try it. We headed round to the start of the big traverses and I had to choose between MMT and RB. I stupidly opted for RB and as the light was fading fell off the crux, swam to a ledge. Tried the wave, fell off again then swam round the corner to the exit. I was fucking freezing by this point and by the time Bruce climbed round the corner I was shivering. A quick yomp back to the bags, dry clothes and hot tea in the van got everyone sorted. I just wish it wasn't 2 hrs drive away or I'd be there 3 times a week in the summer.
w - nothing
t  - for
f - rest of
s - the
s - week (not even a pull up)

it was great to get out finally to the DWS but I need to seriously knuckle down on the training front and get some of my spring strength back. I'm not a million miles away though which is something.

onwards...

[Nibile]

 
Cheers!
Finishers are mentally and physically great! Make your own ones and give them a go. Some weights, therabands, bodyweight excercises, jumps, sprints, anything will do.