[T_B]

Off to Rodellar early October and need some psyche to keep the AeroCap training sessions up

I've searched previous threads with various recommendations, but am keen to get a tick list of the very best routes between 7c - 8a. I've only climbed there two days on stuff up to 7c.

Am more psyched for routes that don't involve full-on tufa kneebar weirdness and are not 40 metre long full-on stam fests (though I realise a lot of the classics are 30+m). I'm only there for 8 days and pre-trip stamina training is all being done indoors, so I'm sceptical as to how fit I will be able to get.

Any other tips welcome - thanks!

[jwi]

L'Any Que Ve També @ (7c) Gran Boveda is good. So are the other nearby 7c/+s, or so I've heard.
Maroskum (7c) on the right hand side is also good and not so long.
Colloseum (8a) is a classique, but too long for you...

I enjoyed Tope Gama (7c) @ El Vaso. Also not very long.

Even if Pince sans rire is below your grade (7b+) you have to do it if you haven't yet.

[shark]

El Corredor de la Muerte looks, and by all account is, amazing.

[abarro81]

Boveda - the 7c on the right, colliseum, les veilles glorries, ambicion cero
Pince - gracias fina plus the 7b+s
Ventanas - a cravita, cena de la isodoro ext, king of metal l1, made in mascun

Corridor broke and is supposed to be a bouldery 8a+ now.

Incidentally, I'm convinced that if I get my training right I can go on a trip in optimum fitness without tying on outdoors. I am naturally very much an enduro plodder not a strength man though

[abarro81]

Should point out that made in mascun is on that list for novelty fun rather than real 'quality'. Piscinetta is worth the walk for a day IMO, real nice place. The 7b+ is fun and the 8a  to the left is good and not obscene stam

[shark]

Corridor broke and is supposed to be a bouldery 8a+ now.

 

[TobyD]

El Corredor de la Muerte looks, and by all account is, amazing.

By all accounts, it is not even now a nice 8a+. Sika anyone?

at the same venue (Surgencia) Sayonara Baby 7c is amazing.

[T_B]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far 

Incidentally, I'm convinced that if I get my training right I can go on a trip in optimum fitness without tying on outdoors. I am naturally very much an enduro plodder not a strength man though

A lot of my sessions tend to be for an hour, though I tend to do 5 a week. Basically I don't know whether I can really train 'right' for enduro with such short (mainly indoor) sessions. E.g. my AeroCap sessions have been 4 x 10 mins on, 4 mins off. We'll see.

[abarro81]

Ah yeah, if time's that limited it's always going to be hard to fit in the volume. Training for endurance definitely takes a lot more hours than for strength!

[i_a_coops]

I thought O Palomaron was great (Cueva de los Calzadores), despite the venue being quite full of various kinds of poo. If you can recover in an easy kneebar after doing a 7a it'll feel like a short-ish power endurance route, albeit miles off the ground.

I think a hold might have broken on that but if it's the hold I think it is it shouldn't have made it into a bouldery nightmare....