UKBouldering.com

Shaunawad MBE (Read 45550 times)

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +29/-0
#25 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:37:01 pm

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2671
  • Karma: +218/-22
#26 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:43:15 pm
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
Dunning
Dave Mac

Other possibles:
Robins?
Chris Davies?
Tim Clifford?

ferret

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 462
  • Karma: +28/-2
#27 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:52:33 pm
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
Dunning
Dave Mac

Other possibles:
Robins?
Chris Davies?
Tim Clifford?

Birch
Earl

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1096
  • Karma: +109/-3
#28 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:57:11 pm
Looks like she might be top ten if you take out the ?s. Better than i thought.

We are pretty shit really arent we. The whole UK tick list looks like a Jimmy Webb weekend away.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 4951
  • Karma: +186/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#29 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 03:05:03 pm
Ryan P - Spectre (still V14 or is it V13?), Didn't he also do Neverending Story?
Dave Jones - Dandelion Mind
Dan Turner - Dandelion Mind
Simon Newstead - The Island
Blackpool Sam - Kaizen
Tom Peckitt - Bulbhaul 8B/+
Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.

Tim Clifford did The Singularity, so that's a yes.
Ned's done The Dagger, which loads of people still think is 8B+. So another yes.
Gaskins did Anaesthesia on film for Stick It. Isn't it still regarded as 8B+ with his method/start?

Quote
Moon
    Malc
    Micky P
    Dan V
        Ethan
    Mike Adams
    Tyler
    Gaskins ( :worms: )
    Shauna
    Dunning
    Dave Mac

    Other possibles:
    Robins?
    Chris Davies?
   


Birch
Earl
« Last Edit: July 14, 2014, 03:25:34 pm by r-man »

sidewinder

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 325
  • Karma: +8/-0
#30 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 03:39:58 pm
Saw someone (GuyVG?) post on sig. repeats that James Noble also did Dandelion Mind?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2671
  • Karma: +218/-22
#31 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 03:42:27 pm
Yeah, James did it but downgraded to 8b. Spectre is 8b too.

Anyway, looks like about 20 (give or take)..

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6245
  • Karma: +358/-6
#32 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 05:47:54 pm
Pasquill hasn't. Strikes a few off if Dandelion Mind has come down. Has Dave Jones done another?he's capable.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 4951
  • Karma: +186/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#33 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 06:03:30 pm
Is the downgrade general consensus, or still undecided?

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +34/-3
#34 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 06:10:15 pm

Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.


Ha.

Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.

Awesome, awesome effort from Shauna!

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#35 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 06:28:43 pm
Chris Webb parsons - are we classing him as one of us?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6245
  • Karma: +358/-6
#36 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 06:42:13 pm
Chris Webb parsons - are we classing him as one of us?

He's got an Australian accent

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2392
  • Karma: +122/-7
#37 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 07:19:19 pm
Is the downgrade general consensus, or still undecided?

James proposed 8B based on finding a foot sequence that made it easier for him, Ethan also used this beta I think

So for those who climbed it prior to these two, with what I presume wouldve been the  orginal sequence, it'd be 8B+....I dunno...is this how things work?


anyway

STRENG SHAUNA STRENG

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +66/-11
#38 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 07:52:57 pm

Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.


Ha.

Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.

I see it more like Ireland being a country that we've stolen a part of and won't give back. But I'm very happy to associate with the cheery ginger fuckers.

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • I no longer know what day of the week it is.
  • Posts: 4960
  • Karma: +255/-9
  • 48! How the f#£k did that happen?
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#39 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 08:57:08 pm


Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.


Ha.

Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.

Awesome, awesome effort from Shauna!

We're a bunch of generally rather insane Islanders, stuck out on the fringes of Eurasia, all with a heavy genetic dose of Celt/bagpipes/ale drinking/tartan skirt wearing/seafaring/scrapping and brawling/broad sword swinging...

With a deserved rep for jointly "Duffing up" most of the rest of the planet, not to mention some of the 18th/19th/20th centuries greatest engineering feats.

The other bit always seemed pretty stupid to me.

 

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7210
  • Karma: +388/-28
#40 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 09:51:50 pm
Is this a shauna wad thread or are we seeing how big a tangent we can go off again?

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12469
  • Karma: +599/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#41 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 10:29:37 pm
Best split the thread again, but miss out posts by me, Nibs and dave.

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +66/-11
#42 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 10:38:35 pm
Shauna's great and stuff.  :icon_beerchug:

tomtom

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 17017
  • Karma: +537/-8
#43 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 11:01:18 pm

Best split the thread again, but miss out posts by me, Nibs and dave.

By ukb standards that's a pretty minor deviation from the point of the thread....

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6245
  • Karma: +358/-6
#44 Re: Shaunawad
July 15, 2014, 09:12:01 pm
5 fuckin days to do New Base Line. My hardest problems all took 15+ days. 5 days is close to a flash!

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +66/-11
#45 Re: Shaunawad
July 15, 2014, 10:54:34 pm
5 fuckin days to do New Base Line. My hardest problems all took 15+ days. 5 days is close to a flash!

First female 8B+ took three years of specific training, 30-40 days and '[a] few hundred attempts'.

With that much effort, or perhaps with less, Shauna could surely get 8C?

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1193
  • Karma: +58/-5
#46 Re: Shaunawad
July 16, 2014, 08:20:50 am
I've got no doubt that shauna could climb an 8c, it'd probably probably just be the case of finding one that suited her.

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +66/-11
#47 Re: Shaunawad
July 16, 2014, 10:01:37 am
I've got no doubt that shauna could climb an 8c, it'd probably probably just be the case of finding one that suited her.

It strikes me that one of the advantages of being a competition climber is that you have to be pretty well balanced. She seems to pick problems with hard crimps, but she's clearly strong on slopers too. And at a variety of angles. I guess it might be a case of counting out reachy dynos? And perhaps roofy one move wonders?

I suspect it's just going to be a race against Ashima!

Stubbs

  • Guest
#48 Re: Shaunawad
July 16, 2014, 11:25:25 am
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline

Quote
I donít think of myself as being brave or bold. I would never use those words to describe myself. When I think about it though, it took me a lot of courage for me to consider trying an 8b+. I was afraid and nervous. Once I had started trying it I thought the fear and apprehension would subside but instead it grew. The realisation that something is possible adds pressure and expectation into the mix. The night before I did the climb I slept terribly and couldn't get the moves out of my head.

It seems an odd state of mind to be scared of trying hard boulders, but it seems to be working for her!

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1211
  • Karma: +66/-11
#49 Re: Shaunawad
July 16, 2014, 12:19:34 pm
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline

Quote
I donít think of myself as being brave or bold. I would never use those words to describe myself. When I think about it though, it took me a lot of courage for me to consider trying an 8b+. I was afraid and nervous. Once I had started trying it I thought the fear and apprehension would subside but instead it grew. The realisation that something is possible adds pressure and expectation into the mix. The night before I did the climb I slept terribly and couldn't get the moves out of my head.

It seems an odd state of mind to be scared of trying hard boulders, but it seems to be working for her!

The right level of stress can motivate. It's only when I read about people not sleeping for weeks while contemplating some sketchy death lead that I wonder if they've gone too far! But what do I know. It'll give them a hell of a memory. Unless they're dead.