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Shaunawad MBE (Read 45549 times)

Doylo

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Shaunawad MBE
July 12, 2014, 06:30:05 pm
 Shaunas done New Base Line, 8B+!!! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :bounce:
« Last Edit: June 14, 2016, 04:25:23 am by ukb, Reason: MBE added as requested »

andymarshll

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#1 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 06:49:39 pm
Hooo Leee SHIT! That's amazing :w00t:

Doylo

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#2 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 07:04:55 pm
For me this could be the best achievement by a British climber ever! It really is that impressive and something that would have been unthinkable only a short time ago. 

Grubes

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#3 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 07:14:42 pm
Wow!

 :o

a dense loner

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#4 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 07:19:14 pm
Fuck me sideways, daze

jwi

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#5 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 08:24:17 pm
Yikes. 8B+!

bigtuboflard

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#6 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 09:25:59 pm
Massive achievement!  :bow:

Didn't know this until now but just watched it on Vimeo and looks, as you'd expect, absolutely nails.

haydn jones

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#7 Re: Shaunawad
July 12, 2014, 10:20:05 pm
 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: WOOOP! Good news! How many hours and minuets did it take her?  :devangel:

well done Shauna!

a dense loner

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#8 Re: Shaunawad
July 13, 2014, 08:12:28 am
There were no dances involved unless you consider climbing a vertical ballet, more horizontal in this case tho

Doylo

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#9 Re: Shaunawad
July 13, 2014, 10:32:15 am
If the Daggers been officially downgraded Neds going to have to up his game  :lol:

slackline

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#10 Re: Shaunawad
July 13, 2014, 12:55:24 pm
Shaunas done New Base Line, 8B+!!! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :bounce:


AMorris

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#11 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 09:17:12 am
That girl is a total beast. Massive respect to her!

On a side note, is this the first female ascent of a downgraded 8C?

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#12 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 10:22:53 am
I was thinking she needed her own thread!

I was also thinking about another issue. Are women as good at hard bouldering as men? Ashima and Shauna are getting pretty close to the top - and while both young. Looking at the actual numbers involved in hard bouldering (by which I mean bouldering pretty seriously and doing something vaguely like training with the intent of getting strong), I suspect men greatly outnumber women. In which case, perhaps the only think currently keeping the men ahead is pure numbers, and the increased odds this brings of producing a world class climber.
I suppose in a way it's not surprising either. The strength advantage men have due to our built in steroids largely enables us to develop and maintain increased muscle mass - which isn't particularly advantageous for climbing.

slackline

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#13 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 10:53:09 am
Looking at the actual numbers involved in hard bouldering (by which I mean bouldering pretty seriously and doing something vaguely like training with the intent of getting strong), I suspect men greatly outnumber women. In which case, perhaps the only think currently keeping the men ahead is pure numbers, and the increased odds this brings of producing a world class climber.

A simple way to make this directly comparable is to work with proportions or precentages (although you'd be hard pushed to get a decent estimate of the total number of climbers of either gender).

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#14 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 11:11:35 am
Looking at the youngsters coming through the Bunker. I would say, the current crop of 16yr olds and up are predominantly lads.

But the real stars in our under 16 groups are all girls and there are more girls than boys.

We're also seeing a rise n the number of 20 something women, as regulars. A year ago, when we opened, we had hardly any female custom; we're probably 60/40 (to male) now.

All of staff/instructors/sponsored climbers/squad members (and on and on), talk more about the female bouldering World Cup, than anything else.
I'm not sure any of them could tell you who the top UK male climbers are.

My guess, is that until recently, fewer women were interested in engaging in the level of training and dedication required and those who were, were more inclined to Dance/Gymnastics; climbing was a dirty, fingernail ripping, "adventure" activity.
Parents generally encourage their offspring into sports and activities that they themselves grew up with(?), and it's only over the last Decade that those of us of the '80/'90s climbing explosion are bringing our offspring into the arena.

Which brings their friends in...


And their friends...


(Cue sexist comment (purely for humorous purposes and in no way a reflection of personal opinions))


Let's face it. Women can't even go to the loo on their own...

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#15 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 11:26:04 am
2 years since the first female V14 and now we've had 2 in a week! Puccio is surely next, seeing as she's made relatively light work of 2 V13's recently!

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#16 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 12:21:08 pm



All of staff/instructors/sponsored climbers/squad members (and on and on), talk more about the female bouldering World Cup, than anything else.
I'm not sure any of them could tell you who the top UK male climbers are.


Thats because we have a genuinely good British woman both indoors and outdoors. We cant say that for the men nor have we been able to for a long time. If/when we have a man up there going for gold we would all be interested in this as well.

Being nationalistic is seen as negative these days but i am quite happy to be so, especially in sport.



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#17 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 12:23:08 pm
Oh and good effort Shauna. Up there with a very small number of brits (male or female) to climb at that grade.

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#18 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 12:27:27 pm
Gme has beaten me to it, but anyone care to take a stab at the number of bits to climb 8B+?

SA Chris

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#19 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 01:55:21 pm
Gme has beaten me to it, but anyone care to take a stab at the number of bits to climb 8B+?

I hope you have an r missing from that, not an n?

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#20 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:00:17 pm
No he meant to say birds.

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#21 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:00:47 pm
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna

more..?

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#22 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:22:19 pm
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna

more..?


Nigel Callender with Monk life, and Dunning if Second Coming is 8B+. Feel like I'm missing someone... Andy Earl! Still feel like I'm missing someone though.

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#23 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:31:08 pm
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna

more..?

Dave Mac (New Base Line, Mystic Stylez, Natural Method, others?)

SA Chris

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#24 Re: Shaunawad
July 14, 2014, 02:36:27 pm
No he meant to say birds.

aka bints (derogatively!)