[Andy W]

Magic Wood, late August will it be too hot and is there a campsite?

Apologies if this has all been posted before, I couldn't fin any up to date info on the campsite.

cheers

[Muenchener]

There is a campsite of sorts. It is an appalling insanitary slum. But free: you get what you pay for.

[Andy W]

ah ok

[a dense loner]

It's not free it's never been free, just some of the people that frequent it like to do a runner. There is no free/wild camping in Swiss. The campsite costs 5 Swiss francs per night. Late august will be a decent time to go

[Oldmanmatt]

Just camp in Como, if you have a car. Italy generally is much cheaper and really only an hour at most from the majority of Swiss. Actually, pick a boarder and camp, shop, eat on the other side. A buy fuel...

[Andy W]

cheers guys, now all I need is the magic list of soft ticks

[a dense loner]

There are no soft ticks anymore, nearly everything has been downgraded

[Doylo]

There are no soft ticks anymore, nearly everything has been downgraded

You saying Supernovas not 8B anymore? 

[Nibile]

It still is of you try it with my - and Crouch's - sequence.
Good times.

[a dense loner]

Strange you say that Doyle, I climbed with the midget first ascentionist of it last month. He's still spitting feathers since people laugh, still reckons it's one of the hardest pieces of climbing he's done. He's probably not too far wrong on the grade either. Stayed on the sloper the whole way, no hands or feet wandering underneath. Was always gonna be climbed like it is now tho

[turnipturned]

Late August is great time to go.

Camping is fine at Magic Wood and up the road there is a place to hang out with Wifi and TV, so I would actually say it pretty good! Please pay for the camping its dirt cheap and DO NOT sleep in your car in one of the layby's. It really pisses the local residents off!

The border to Italy about 20minutes away, but to be honest, I really don't think it would make much price difference. Thats the amazing thing about Magic Wood, you can wake up and walk 5 minutes and you are in the Woods!

[Andy W]

Pleased to hear Aug is good, it was Magic Wood or N Wales! Hoping for better conditions in Switzerland, should be fun. My only other concern is crowds. I've been pretty spoilt over the years, Cornwall and Font outside holiday times, I'm not completely antisocial, but will we be able to find the odd quiet boulder?

[Richie Crouch]

I'm sure I saw a recent Facebook post from thomasz, that proper toilets are currently being installed to replace the blue rooms of death. Great news if so!

[groovedog]

Any knowledge on a topo, where from and which one?
Is it hard work finding the boulders / are there concentrated areas? I may have a day or two spare, not sure if its a place you can turn up and get straight into, or waste a day finding one boulder.

Thanks

[a dense loner]

You couldn't ask for a better place for that groove dog. All the boulders are in one area which you approach from one of two ways, both being a 5 minute walk. Don't know about topo's tho

[Stubbs]

This one probably isn't particularly up to date any more, but it has most of the bouldering on http://sloper.climbing.nl/pdf/MagicWood.pdf

With regards to conditions, it's flipping hot there in August, morning and evening sessions for better nick.

[Andy W]

Van or car, van or car? Cheaper fuel or better nights sleep, what's the van camping situation like at magic wood?

[Nibile]

Come on, van or car is a no brainer.
Van. 100%.
You go there on a trip to tear the hard boulders down. Sleep well, crush, eat, repeat.