What sort of grades are you after? The ED type grading is fairly meaningless when it comes to rock routes.
For some easy access, one day in and out hits; In the Midi there's La dame du lac, which has excellent 8 or so pitches of mainly pure crack climbing thin hands and fingers/fingerlocks with an offwidth at the top to finish. Pretty sustained with a bunch of 6b/+ pitches stacked up on top of each other.
Also, the Contamine on the right side of the face - Quality climbing all the way, with the main pitches following a parallel system of thin cracks going past an overlap, and another near the top being a slightly overhanging 7a burlfest
A bit farther along there are a bunch of good easyish routes on Adolphe Rey. The Bettembourg follows a corner crack system for 300 or so metres and it's all quality. First pitch is sold at 6b but i'll eat my hat if it isn't closer to 7b. The receding glacier may have accounted for the bottom section, but the crack above is no walk in the park either... but above that is all an enjoyable romp. A bit to the left Coup de Foudre is definitely class.
There's also Super-Dupont which is all cracks and gets rated at F7b, but I'm sure I've read Fr6c+ elsewhere... Cracks are often a bit overgraded in Chamonix, if you're any good at cracks which I believe you are?
Off the top of my head here are some other suggestions: État de Choch on the Petit Clocher du Portalet - http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/182781/fr/petit-clocher-du-portalet-etat-de-choc
South Face of the Fou is on my list too, but only if I can avoid the dodgy couloir approach - it's above my arbitrarily set "objective danger limit".
And about the guides office... I find it's useless to ask them for any info. They will either say "Nooooo... nooooo... Condition no gooooood" or "Nooooooo... Nooooo.... Too Dangerouuuuuus......". ItTheir knowledge seems to be limited to the goats route up MB
Quote from: Fultonius on July 07, 2014, 08:24:39 amThere's also Super-Dupont which is all cracks and gets rated at F7b, but I'm sure I've read Fr6c+ elsewhere... Cracks are often a bit overgraded in Chamonix, if you're any good at cracks which I believe you are? Super-dupont is 6c+ if you french-aid a very short section of 7b up high. Standard fare for weaklings...
Quote from: Lopez on July 07, 2014, 05:37:50 pmAye Franco - those were our tentative plans. You coming out this summer or just charging through all the obscure lines of the moors?Haven't been out for the last three years. The alps is dangerous. In a really bad way. Have fun like, go fast!Also, not sure what routes the op's looked at. Dimanche noire is incredible (on the peigne - lots of other good stuff on there), le fleurs de mal is a bit harder on the blaittiere (haven't done all of this, but the start is cool).
Aye Franco - those were our tentative plans. You coming out this summer or just charging through all the obscure lines of the moors?