UKBouldering.com

Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread (Read 7977 times)

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
June 27, 2014, 03:34:53 pm
Been having problems in both shoulders on and off for over a year now. Currently getting physio on the right shoulder - he recommended check out this site:

http://www.shoulderdoc.co.uk/article.asp?section=847

Seems pretty useful to me, hope it gives other people a resource to check out if they're having problems.

I have tight posterior capsule, overly strong lats, tight pecs, causing impingement on the supraspinatus. For me, the key is posture I think, and keeping a routine of pec and lat flexibility and shoulder strengthening and stabilising exercises going all the year round, to counteract the effect of climbing.

This site has some good content too if you like being sort of shouted at by a baby-faced American man: http://www.mobilitywod.com/#

And Robin's UKC article was good too and gave a good summary of exercises other physios had given me: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6022

Any other articles, recommendations for information on this topic other than UKB search?

krymson

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 346
  • Karma: +15/-1
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-do

Lots of stuff in there but im not sure its all essential - I've had good luck with just the pull aparts/pull downs and wall angels. that and doing antagonist workouts on rings has kept my shoulders bulletproof for the last 8 months. Now if only staving off finger niggles was this straightforward..

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
There are a couple of links in the wiki, could add those too?

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Shoulder_Injuries_:_The_Science

jd84

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 1
  • Karma: +0/-0
I had dodgy shoulders for a couple of years and after a LOT of trial and error and a fair bit of cash spent on physio, stumbled across an exercise that sorted them out. Not sure if this is common knowledge or not but what I do is hang from a bar and retract and depress my scapulae as far as possible. Then just hold that for ten seconds and repeat a few times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week and my upper back and shoulders feel loads better.

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0

The band exercises that The Sausage shows on here have been good for me


http://www.climbingphysio.blogspot.co.uk/

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
I had dodgy shoulders for a couple of years and after a LOT of trial and error and a fair bit of cash spent on physio, stumbled across an exercise that sorted them out. Not sure if this is common knowledge or not but what I do is hang from a bar and retract and depress my scapulae as far as possible. Then just hold that for ten seconds and repeat a few times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week and my upper back and shoulders feel loads better.


One of the great Pilates exercises/movements that are good for shoulders.
My Pilates instructor calls this areas between scapula your second core

hamsforlegs

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 72
  • Karma: +7/-0
  • Wildcat. Pkow.
Interesting you should mention this Rocksteady.

I just joined a gym in Vauxhall so I can pop over after a session at the wall. Just a couple of sessions in doing more pushing and some shoulder stability and my own shoulders feel tons better.

Things that work for me:
- Dumbbell bench press with a slight incline, low narrow hands. Really works the upper pecs.
- Lots of single handed overhead pressing
- Very light chest flyes and pullovers while lying (lengthways) on a foam roller

These last two are magic and really show up the problems; they are all about position and form though, so can give you the 'magic cues' when I next see you.

Similar to the hanging scapula exercise that jd84 mentioned, I've also found that 'batwing' exercises are good, where you do a rowing motion with low hands and hold the position ('thumbs in armpits') for 5-10 seconds. Can be done with a theraband, light dumbbells, cable machine, shopping bags etc etc.

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#7 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 03:37:56 pm
By way of resurrection, but mainly because I have a vested interest in this topic. I thought I'd share.

Written this before, so sorry for repetition. About three years ago, shortly after opening the wall, I tore my right rotator cuff (supraspinatus), through over training/pushing too hard.

Various attempts at come back/recovery resulted in re-injury, tendonitis and demoralising failure. Advice from others paid little to no dividends.
So, eighteen months ago, I decided to qualify as a PT, through Gym instructor etc. and learn as much as I could, so I could sort myself out.

Coming up on a year now, of training and I'm feeling pretty strong again. No shoulder pain and starting to show improvement in my climbing (nowhere near where I want to be yet, but starting feel like it's not impossible).

So I'd like to share some of the "different" things I've put together that helped and hear what others have had success with.

One: Beastmaker campus hybrid.

Using the 45* campus to a medium rung (both rungs are @20cm spacing, starting from the top of the BM, but vertical, overhung).
Match, and the descend to the 35*
Holding the spin is really quite hard and you should feel it in the shoulders. Repeat, leading with the other hand. I usually do three sets of three (each hand) after a campus routine.



I hope you like the professional "phone in shoe at funny angle" presentation...


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#8 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 05:47:35 pm
Thanks for bringing this thread back to life OMM.

I'm not sure I like the look of the BM routine as a therapeutic intervention though. I'd say it looks quite high impact, and the sort of thing that, although good from a strength/coordination point of view, looks similar to routines that have exacerbated shoulder and elbow problems in the past for me.

I've started doing a lot of handstands and planche progression work, combined with various stretches. Missing the campus board though.

Having said that, and maybe in line with my first comment, I've often questioned the campus board as a particularly effective training tool, choosing instead to look at alternative ways of training the different elements of the routine separately. I think there's no doubting the effectiveness of the campus board for "bringing it all together" though.

I'm wondering if your Beastmaker routine is a good indication of the gains you've made in other ways. ? Shouldn't you be doing that with full type 90 webbing though?  ;)

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#9 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 06:03:18 pm
Yep, my mistake, I didn't mean to imply it was a good rehab routine! (Which I clearly did,sorry). This was a more advanced thing, progressed to over 12 months. As in, I want strong shoulders that are less likely to injure so easily again [emoji12].


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
After much prodding and poking and googling, i think I have an issue where the infraspinatus connects to the scapula. I have a small area of very localised pain right in the edge of my shoulder blade, but nowhere else. It comes and goes, has been alright for a few months, but i was working on a problem that involves crossing my left hand hand through under my right to a horizontal pinch (on 26 deg board) on Friday night and it feels sore gain afterwards. I think a paddlefest surf session yesterday didn't help either!

Can anyone confirm?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
This was fine for a while but now niggling again. And advice appreciated. Thanks

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
I don't have any advice for your particular injury, but I've been doing these a couple of times a week for the past few months for general shoulder health:

Davo

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 442
  • Karma: +24/-4
#13 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 25, 2021, 06:48:58 pm
Rather than start a new topic I thought I would resurrect this thread.

I thought this podcast by shoulder specialist (physio) Jo Gibson might be of help for anyone who has long standing shoulder pain. I am a physio and thought she had some good ideas for helping with someone who usual exercises have not helped.

https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/physio-edge-podcast/id454714085

The usual disclaimers of making sure that you have had an assessment and diagnosis and that this podcast does not replace the need for that apply.

I have one other caveat about it:

As she makes clear (ish) in the podcast these exercises are most likely only useful for someone with chronic shoulder pain that has not responded to the usual stuff over a significant period of time. It’s very easy to listen to this podcast and feel that if you have shoulder pain then you should try these but in reality you need to have been persistent with rehab and strengthening work for a lengthy period of time first. I only post this as I suspect amongst climbers there are a fair few for whom usual rehab has not been successful and thought it might be helpful.

Cheers

Dave



Simon W

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 182
  • Karma: +4/-0
#14 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 25, 2021, 09:01:12 pm
Thanks for that Dave, just had a listen and was interesting. I fall into the category of tried a lot but shoulder still not right. Are you, or anyone else able to explain the exercise she describes at around 22:00 in less technical language, i’d Like to try it but can’t quite picture what to do!

Davo

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 442
  • Karma: +24/-4
#15 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 25, 2021, 09:36:03 pm
Hi Simon

I did think that might be hard to visualise! Okay, will have a go...

Lie on your back, with your arm out at 90 degs and your elbow bent to 90degs. Your elbow should rest comfortably on a towel on the floor (personally I wouldn’t worry too much about the towel). In this position your upper arm is out from your body at 90 degs and your forearm is sticking up in the air. Now let your forearm go back to the floor as far as you can (should be comfortable and not grim pain). This is full external rotation at the shoulder itself. At the same time you have a stretchy band held in your hand which is wrapped around your foot and your knee and hip are bent up so there’s no tension on the band. Now with your forearm flat on the floor and your shoulder in full external rotation straighten your leg out to put tension on the band. Resist this tension with your arm and then slowly allow your arm to rotate forwards/ internally rotate. This means that your forearm will move from touching the floor back towards the upright position and towards the floor again. The key thing here is that the rotation is at the shoulder itself.

Hmmm... good luck with interpreting that !!!

I think if you try it out it will eventually make some sense?

Dave

Davo

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 442
  • Karma: +24/-4
#16 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 25, 2021, 09:37:53 pm
Forgot to mention that this will be eccentric (lengthening under tension) external rotation

Simon W

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 182
  • Karma: +4/-0
#17 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 26, 2021, 06:01:55 pm
Thanks for translating Dave. I can get my head round that version and will give it a try, cheers!

nick63

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 19
  • Karma: +4/-0
#18 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
February 26, 2021, 06:59:44 pm
If you follow Clinical Edge on Facebook Jo does a live video chat every Monday from 7pm.  She is a gold mine of very useful practical shoulder advice. I've done 2 of her shoulder courses and her explanations and rehab programs are brilliant.

hongkongstuey

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1417
  • Karma: +46/-0
    • http://www.hongkongclimbing.com
knackered my shoulder recently on a wide moonboard move - felt (and heard) lots of grinding and movement over the top of the shoulder when it gave out and then suffered a partial dislocation a few days later during a yoga class...

The vids below are the initial isometric loading exercises my PT gave me to start rehabbing this (might be useful for anyone who suffers a similar fate):



 





Guess this one may take a little while to recover from  :wavecry:
(at least it happened at the end of the climbing season and start of the long, hot, humid HK summer...)

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
Man this thread is depressing as I started it in 2014 and still have problems with my shoulders.

Will try some of the different exercises above, haven't seen all of these before.   

old cheese

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 319
  • Karma: +13/-1
  • does my arse look big in this
Hi, recently seemed to be developing some pain in my left shoulder.
The pain is localised in the dip behind the clavicle but it does track up to the neck a little.
The pain is worse in the last ten degrees of movement when raising my arm above my head.
Any thoughts welcome.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
Dip behind the clavicle??
Supraspinatus controls the painful range of motion you describe and runs from under the clavicle over the top of the humerus.
Might be something else entirely, of course, especially if you have neck pain.

old cheese

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 319
  • Karma: +13/-1
  • does my arse look big in this
Dip behind the clavicle??
Supraspinatus controls the painful range of motion you describe and runs from under the clavicle over the top of the humerus.
Might be something else entirely, of course, especially if you have neck pain.
Immediate behind the clavicle. I have no pain heading down to the arm, localised in that space really. It’s just been for about three weeks now and worse after climbing. Probably nowt to worry about…

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
A physio (which I’m not) would give you the answer to that. I’ve previously hurt supraspinatus (amongst other things) and the pain was under the acromion at the tip of the clavicle.

If there’s one joint I’d invest time in, it’s the shoulder. Its stability affects everything- performance, elbow injuries- everything runs through the shoulder joint.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal