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Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread (Read 2412 times)

Rocksteady

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Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
June 27, 2014, 03:34:53 pm
Been having problems in both shoulders on and off for over a year now. Currently getting physio on the right shoulder - he recommended check out this site:

http://www.shoulderdoc.co.uk/article.asp?section=847

Seems pretty useful to me, hope it gives other people a resource to check out if they're having problems.

I have tight posterior capsule, overly strong lats, tight pecs, causing impingement on the supraspinatus. For me, the key is posture I think, and keeping a routine of pec and lat flexibility and shoulder strengthening and stabilising exercises going all the year round, to counteract the effect of climbing.

This site has some good content too if you like being sort of shouted at by a baby-faced American man: http://www.mobilitywod.com/#

And Robin's UKC article was good too and gave a good summary of exercises other physios had given me: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6022

Any other articles, recommendations for information on this topic other than UKB search?

krymson

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http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-do

Lots of stuff in there but im not sure its all essential - I've had good luck with just the pull aparts/pull downs and wall angels. that and doing antagonist workouts on rings has kept my shoulders bulletproof for the last 8 months. Now if only staving off finger niggles was this straightforward..

SA Chris

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There are a couple of links in the wiki, could add those too?

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Shoulder_Injuries_:_The_Science

jd84

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I had dodgy shoulders for a couple of years and after a LOT of trial and error and a fair bit of cash spent on physio, stumbled across an exercise that sorted them out. Not sure if this is common knowledge or not but what I do is hang from a bar and retract and depress my scapulae as far as possible. Then just hold that for ten seconds and repeat a few times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week and my upper back and shoulders feel loads better.

Dolly

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The band exercises that The Sausage shows on here have been good for me


http://www.climbingphysio.blogspot.co.uk/

Dolly

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I had dodgy shoulders for a couple of years and after a LOT of trial and error and a fair bit of cash spent on physio, stumbled across an exercise that sorted them out. Not sure if this is common knowledge or not but what I do is hang from a bar and retract and depress my scapulae as far as possible. Then just hold that for ten seconds and repeat a few times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week and my upper back and shoulders feel loads better.


One of the great Pilates exercises/movements that are good for shoulders.
My Pilates instructor calls this areas between scapula your second core

hamsforlegs

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Interesting you should mention this Rocksteady.

I just joined a gym in Vauxhall so I can pop over after a session at the wall. Just a couple of sessions in doing more pushing and some shoulder stability and my own shoulders feel tons better.

Things that work for me:
- Dumbbell bench press with a slight incline, low narrow hands. Really works the upper pecs.
- Lots of single handed overhead pressing
- Very light chest flyes and pullovers while lying (lengthways) on a foam roller

These last two are magic and really show up the problems; they are all about position and form though, so can give you the 'magic cues' when I next see you.

Similar to the hanging scapula exercise that jd84 mentioned, I've also found that 'batwing' exercises are good, where you do a rowing motion with low hands and hold the position ('thumbs in armpits') for 5-10 seconds. Can be done with a theraband, light dumbbells, cable machine, shopping bags etc etc.

Oldmanmatt

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#7 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 03:37:56 pm
By way of resurrection, but mainly because I have a vested interest in this topic. I thought I'd share.

Written this before, so sorry for repetition. About three years ago, shortly after opening the wall, I tore my right rotator cuff (supraspinatus), through over training/pushing too hard.

Various attempts at come back/recovery resulted in re-injury, tendonitis and demoralising failure. Advice from others paid little to no dividends.
So, eighteen months ago, I decided to qualify as a PT, through Gym instructor etc. and learn as much as I could, so I could sort myself out.

Coming up on a year now, of training and I'm feeling pretty strong again. No shoulder pain and starting to show improvement in my climbing (nowhere near where I want to be yet, but starting feel like it's not impossible).

So I'd like to share some of the "different" things I've put together that helped and hear what others have had success with.

One: Beastmaker campus hybrid.

Using the 45* campus to a medium rung (both rungs are @20cm spacing, starting from the top of the BM, but vertical, overhung).
Match, and the descend to the 35*
Holding the spin is really quite hard and you should feel it in the shoulders. Repeat, leading with the other hand. I usually do three sets of three (each hand) after a campus routine.



I hope you like the professional "phone in shoe at funny angle" presentation...


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

DAVETHOMAS90

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#8 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 05:47:35 pm
Thanks for bringing this thread back to life OMM.

I'm not sure I like the look of the BM routine as a therapeutic intervention though. I'd say it looks quite high impact, and the sort of thing that, although good from a strength/coordination point of view, looks similar to routines that have exacerbated shoulder and elbow problems in the past for me.

I've started doing a lot of handstands and planche progression work, combined with various stretches. Missing the campus board though.

Having said that, and maybe in line with my first comment, I've often questioned the campus board as a particularly effective training tool, choosing instead to look at alternative ways of training the different elements of the routine separately. I think there's no doubting the effectiveness of the campus board for "bringing it all together" though.

I'm wondering if your Beastmaker routine is a good indication of the gains you've made in other ways. ? Shouldn't you be doing that with full type 90 webbing though?  ;)

Oldmanmatt

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#9 Re: Shoulder injuries/exercises beta thread
December 07, 2016, 06:03:18 pm
Yep, my mistake, I didn't mean to imply it was a good rehab routine! (Which I clearly did,sorry). This was a more advanced thing, progressed to over 12 months. As in, I want strong shoulders that are less likely to injure so easily again [emoji12].


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SA Chris

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After much prodding and poking and googling, i think I have an issue where the infraspinatus connects to the scapula. I have a small area of very localised pain right in the edge of my shoulder blade, but nowhere else. It comes and goes, has been alright for a few months, but i was working on a problem that involves crossing my left hand hand through under my right to a horizontal pinch (on 26 deg board) on Friday night and it feels sore gain afterwards. I think a paddlefest surf session yesterday didn't help either!

Can anyone confirm?

SA Chris

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This was fine for a while but now niggling again. And advice appreciated. Thanks

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I don't have any advice for your particular injury, but I've been doing these a couple of times a week for the past few months for general shoulder health:

 

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