[shark]

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cheddar-climbing-access-approaching-crisis-point


As eight more groups of climbers are caught climbing in banned areas, Cheddar Gorge access is now approaching crisis point.

A few weeks ago, we reported that Cheddar Gorge climbing was at risk from thoughtless climbers breaking the agreed access arrangements.

 However, there have been further cases of climbers using crags outside of the agreed summer areas. Over last weekend (31st May - 1st June) Cheddar Caves & Gorge (CC&G) staff had to approach eight groups who were climbing within the restricted areas.

 This is unfortunate and follows a great bank holiday weekend the week before, when all climbers in the Gorge were only using crags that were open within the access agreement.

Hopefully last weekend was a one-off situation. Irritation at CC&G is rising, understandably, due to the amount of staff time being used up dealing with the problem, and the potential risk to the public below.

 If there isn’t a big improvement to the situation, there is now a serious risk that CC&G could withdraw the permissive access they allow climbers to the South Side crags for everything other than the winter season.

The BMC is working with CC&G to try to do everything we can to make climbers aware of the access restrictions. CC&G do not want signs up marking the restricted areas at this time as they don’t like excess signage within the gorge which would impact on the aesthetics of the place. We are exploring other options with them but, ultimately, it's up to all climbers to take responsibility and make sure we’re not climbing where we shouldn’t be.

 If the climbing community isn’t seen to improve our collective behaviour, the current good access we enjoy to the South Side could be lost for good.

Climbing at Cheddar Gorge? Don't forget:
• Make sure you have third-party liability insurance to a minimum of £10 million (a standard feature of BMC/MCofS membership)
• Check the access calendar to make sure where you want to go is open for climbing
• Only park in the long-stay visitor car parks
• Be friendly to any CC&G staff you talk to
• If you see climbers in an area out of season, let them know

Previous related articles:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cheddar-gorge-access-climbing-at-risk-from-thoughtless-climbers
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cheddar-gorge-access-reminder-2013

[Duma]

Access Calendar : http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807
Restricted areas : http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=416
Code of conduct : http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=414

[a dense loner]

Could they not put discrete signs at the bottom, or near to, of the well known routes? As in a little 3x2 plaque. If people don't know they don't know. If I was to go somewhere on a day trip I wouldn't check the bmc website

[lagerstarfish]

I can see it - the new BMC campaign

"don't be Dense, check the access info before you go somewhere on a day trip"

[Duma]

Could they not put discrete signs at the bottom, or near to, of the well known routes? As in a little 3x2 plaque. If people don't know they don't know. If I was to go somewhere on a day trip I wouldn't check the bmc website

There's a sign by Coronation St, but as I understand it CC&G don't want any more signs in the gorge for aesthetic reasons (bit ridiculous I think given the parking, tour buses, etc, but anyway).

I know Cheddar's a bit shit (Didn't Alex Honnold describe it as the worst crag he'd ever been to?) but there's plenty of fun stuff there, and it's not hard really:
1) join the BMC, carry your membership card with you.
2) print the first link, keep it in your Cheddar guidebook, or download it to your phone.
3) don't park or act like a cunt.

The agreement for climbing on the south side isn't complicated, and can be summed up in a couple of lines:
Oct-Mar - Everything.
Jul-Aug, all bank holiday weekends, and all summer half term - Nothing.
Rest of Apr-Sep - restored routes (see calendar for details).

[a dense loner]

What I'm getting at more Duma is that some people don't read the internet so how do you account for these? Or are there well known access issues down there that would ordinarily encourage someone to check? It doesn't seem like it.
The idea that you have to carry a card anywhere to climb outside quite frankly appalls me!

[slackline]

What I'm getting at more Duma is that some people don't read the internet so how do you account for these? Or are there well known access issues down there that would ordinarily encourage someone to check? It doesn't seem like it.
The idea that you have to carry a card anywhere to climb outside quite frankly appalls me!

Careful Dense, you're starting to sound a bit like me.

[Duma]

The access issues (on the south side of the gorge) are pretty well known, certainly locally. I agree signs would be helpful but we can't impose them if CC&G don't want them. Thinking about it I'll print the access calendar out big at work this evening and drop copies at the Bristol walls - maybe that will help.
The card thing is due to CC&G insisting on climbers having £10 million third party liability insurance (and evidence thereof) due to the risk of injury to tourists below - for a climber BMC/MCoS membership is the obvious way to get it. Remember the South side of the gorge is private land, with no right of access.