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the best training regime? (Read 2549 times)

Fingers of a Martyr

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the best training regime?
July 13, 2004, 10:35:56 pm
right, how do u think the best way to train is? 2 on 1 off, 6 days in a row, every other day? whats your training regime?

i do bouldering/campussing(well arms only bouldering) one night then fingerboarding the next x3 per week. then do fuck all on sunday.

T.H.

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#1 the best training regime?
July 14, 2004, 07:03:40 pm
Fook me!  That's a lot of training.  Usual advice is to strength train for no more than two hours with at least two days rest in between.  In fact some current research suggests up to 4 days rest is the most benificial.  I can't see how you're giving your body time to recover and achieve hyper-compensation (improvement).  Also, you must either be hyper injury resistant or not training hard enough.  If I trained every day I would have terrible tendonitis within days, and no skin.  When top athletes train everyday they don't train the same muscles everyday.  For example, a top swimmer would train every day but alternate the training every day i.e. day 1 = swim, day 2 = resistance training for the lower body, day 3 = resistance training for the upper body, or something similar.  Hope that's useful.

Fingers of a Martyr

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#2 the best training regime?
July 14, 2004, 10:32:03 pm
i do vary it but thats the basic structure. basically never exceed two hours and never go to absolute failure. i think i have excellent skin as everyone elses seems to disintegrate and mine stays alright. been doing it for the past 4 months and before that bouldered 6 times a week for roughly 7 months. basically i think its about building up one's base level. i.e i could climb consistently at say v7 for 2 hours but v9 for only about 10-20 minutes. a year ago it would be like v3 for 2 hours and v5 for 10-20 min.
and i rarely notice a large drop in performance as the week progesses. i am definitly training hard enough but perhaps not in the traditional sense of the word. going to failure or burning out are not the agenda ever. i always make sure i could perform at about 25% of my maximum ability at the end of a 2 hour training sesion. faster and better recovery and always at a semi peak. similar to what malc smith recommends basically. perhaps i am lucky injury wise?

the_dom

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#3 the best training regime?
July 15, 2004, 05:31:13 am
I try to campus twice a week, climb indoors once a week (after a campus session) and climb outdoors twice a week - basically broken into 4 training days.

If I'm climbing outdoors after work, then I'll do a hangboard (read doorjam) workout afterwards because it's winter here and I can only get in 1 and a half hours in.

I found, until I quit smoking recently, that I was climbing bloody well with that training, for me that is.

 

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