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Buildering Ethics (Read 2078 times)

fatneck

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Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 02:14:24 pm
Just a few thoughts!
Was down at a local sandstone wall near the river (Mersey) the other day, messing about with a mate and tryin a dyno I've nearly got wired. Now, the right handhold for the start of the dyno has a sharp, painfull nubin right where the first joint of the index finger meets the rock, and as a consequence I only ever get two or three goes at it per session before there's a nice bit of claret decorating the holds and my clothes. Plus it bloddy hurts! Taping has proved insufficient and talk turned to whether I should smooth the offending hold.
I haven't altered the hold and feel that the fact I only get a few goes per session adds to the psyche I get thinking about it!
Any one else got any thoughts? Have I very little to occupy my mind?
I suppose the response I get will be the judge of whether it was worth pondering this at all!

Blunk

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#1 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 08:56:46 pm
I prefer to leave sharp bits even if they do limit one's tries. I don't have a good reason, though I could say suffering is integral to climbing or some such BS. I think I just like to falsely believe I am that much tougher than gym climbing punks.

Bubba

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#2 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 08:59:52 pm
We're talking an artificial wall?

If it was me, I'd have no qualms about modifying the hold - it's not like it's natural rock.

fatneck

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#3 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 09:19:59 pm
Yeah Bubba, just an old wall, but has been climbed on for quite a while as far as I can ascertain and most of the local strong boys know about it.
I kind of feel that the problem should stay the way it is, even if it's only so I can sandbag people on it :lol:

dontfollowme

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#4 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 09:56:20 pm
I would smooth the hold down. It is only a wall for training on after all, its not like people are going to make a trip to try it. On the other hand it may stand you in good stead if you go and visit somewhere like Dartmoor where there are some very sharp pebbles you need to pinch/crimp.

jonP

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#5 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 10:41:05 pm
Bash the sharp bits off.  There's no pleasure in painful holds.

dave

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#6 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 11:09:25 pm
stand on the offending hold in a sloppy manner till it accidentally breaks. word.

fatneck

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#7 Buildering Ethics
July 13, 2004, 11:58:15 pm
Cheers Dave!  :D

Johnny Brown

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#8 Buildering Ethics
July 14, 2004, 10:52:20 am
you people. talk about the thin end of the wedge.... :roll:

 

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