Some recent South Peak esoterica…
Black Rocks AreaA small block popping out of the hillside close to Black Garden. Turn off the HP Trail on footpath as for Black Garden and after 60m or so drop down hillside for 10m to the well hidden block. There are two really worthwhile problems and a good eliminate.
The Water Method 6a+ The lip traverse from the right finishing around and up the left aręte.
Eliminating the lower footholds and just climbing the lip for hands and feet is about 6b+.
The Ballad of Jed Clampett 6cA long name for a short but really fun problem. The overhanging prow formed by the aręte and the crack from a clamping sit start.
There are also some easier straight up problems to the right.
Obscure but worth a visit for keen locals and might help to ease some congestion on the nearby Angel Boulder.
Stanton MoorThere’s a small quarry locate just behind the Demons/Rural Object area. Park in the layby below Demons and walk up the path. About 40m after A Rural Object is a small wall/ruin. Turn right here off the path and after 20m drop into the small quarry. It has one short wall with an undercut prow feature. The setting is pretty dismal by local standards but the climbing is good and very different to the other stuff on the moor.
Leafcutter 6b+ It has a rule of sorts – only holds on/below the obvious seam out to and up the aręte.
Harvester 6aThe aręte from sitting, starting on the lowest edge and a low pinch on the aręte.
Seagull TorOn the long low, overhanging ledge underneath Dana Awen
Right Smiler 6a+ Left to Right lip traverse on some varied features. A really good 6b+ if the lower footholds are eliminated and heel hooks etc employed.
There are 3 sit start lines through the traverse which are worthwhile. The rightmost line is the hardest, starting with LH in the slot and RH sidepull. Maybe 6b+ or harder. I couldn’t do it so it was donated.
Parapunt 6a+Sit start to the bulging right aręte of Parachute is better + harder than it looks.
Angel Falls is also clean now (at least the holds I used).
