[Luke Owens]

Had a good day up at Wavelength yesterday. Did Paul's Bulge which was brilliant! Quick question about that. I wasn't sure where it started. I know it finishes on the slopers I did it twice with 2 different starts. One low and left and sort of traversing right into the top and one directly below the top out near the big V slot. Both felt about 6C.

Had a brief go on Northern Soul but couldn't pull off the ground...?

There seemed to be a side pull or undercut for the right hand and not much for the left and the feet were pretty unhelpful too. Looks fine after the move to the lefthand pinch.

Any beta?

Cheers

[Luke Owens]

While i'm at it, I keep falling off the top moves on King of Drunks. The start I'm now finding easy but the big move off the finger jug i've never managed. I've seen people stay front on and go big to what feels like a sloper to the right of the golf ball but I can never latch it. Any alternative methods? Cheers

[Pantontino]

Had a good day up at Wavelength yesterday. Did Paul's Bulge which was brilliant! Quick question about that. I wasn't sure where it started. I know it finishes on the slopers I did it twice with 2 different starts. One low and left and sort of traversing right into the top and one directly below the top out near the big V slot. Both felt about 6C.

Had a brief go on Northern Soul but couldn't pull off the ground...?

There seemed to be a side pull or undercut for the right hand and not much for the left and the feet were pretty unhelpful too. Looks fine after the move to the lefthand pinch.

Any beta?

Cheers

Paul's Bulge is brilliant, such a cool problem. The only slight flaw is the ambiguous start. Standard version is to pull on with chest high holds in the break. A harder sds can be forced but it doesn't climb so well. It's down as 6B+ for the new guide, but is quite tough for the grade.

Northern Soul is going in the guide at 7A. Pull on with right hand undercut, left on a choice of holds - boost up to the pinch then make a hard walk through to a high right foot and difficult snatch to an edge out right and just below the top. The sitter is an excellent too, but pretty tough 7B.

[Pantontino]

While i'm at it, I keep falling off the top moves on King of Drunks. The start I'm now finding easy but the big move off the finger jug i've never managed. I've seen people stay front on and go big to what feels like a sloper to the right of the golf ball but I can never latch it. Any alternative methods? Cheers

I go outside edge and layaway up to reach the sloper then drop my left foot down to a foot hold beneath the sloper to stabilise. Think I then match and snatch the golf ball jug.

[Luke Owens]

As always, thank you Si!

Keen to get back and try them again. Some great problems in the Satellites area.

Paul's Bulge is definitely stiff at 6B+!

Are there many other good 7A's on that part of the hillside?

KoD, Fear of a Slopey Planet, Arse Soul, Northern Soul are the only ones I've looked at.

I've heard Jerry's Wall is supposed to be good, just opposite the hut?

6C/+'s seem to go easy but the 7A's seem to take some substantial effort!

[mr chaz]

I kept falling off that move on KOD for a while staying open, could never seem to latch it well enough. After a while I climbed on top and had a proper look at the slopey crimp that your going for off the finger jug and realised there was a much better bit just slightly further left and a little lower. Went first time after that by latching the hold, move left foot, matching then snatching the golf ball IIRC. Sorry if this doesn't help you but hope you get it anyway 

[Pantontino]

As always, thank you Si!

Keen to get back and try them again. Some great problems in the Satellites area.

Paul's Bulge is definitely stiff at 6B+!

Are there many other good 7A's on that part of the hillside?

KoD, Fear of a Slopey Planet, Arse Soul, Northern Soul are the only ones I've looked at.

I've heard Jerry's Wall is supposed to be good, just opposite the hut?

6C/+'s seem to go easy but the 7A's seem to take some substantial effort!

Don't take it personally, some of the 7As, like KoD, are pretty tough for the grade; I get regular comments about ones like that. There's loads to go at and lots of new stuff. PM me your email (I thought I had it but can't find it) and I'll send you some stuff from the new guide.

Jerry's wall is cool - probably only 6C from standing if you bounce up to snag the pebbley sloper. The sitter is getting 7A+ but taller climbers tend to say 7B. Personally I find it desperate. The problems and combinations just to the left are all very good. See the links below:



http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=257

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=259

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=313