[andy popp]

I'm feeling pretty frustrated with myself.  I have a superb highball project, genuine 3 stars. It's about 30' and I think possibly 7B. It's thin and continuous to the last move.

I've had three proper sessions on it.  The first I'd only just finished cleaning it and a critical hold high up was still a bit damp/dirty.  Perhaps because of this I couldn't make myself commit. Next session, after a couple of dithery goes,  I fully went for it and came off the top move.  Next go I came of slightly lower.  After that I felt completely battered.  I went out early today but again totally failed to commit. It would be easy to make excuses: I was a bit tired after two long days,  I only had two pads and no spot but in reality I could tell I was mentally setting myself up to fail from the start.  Now I'm wondering if it'll happen next time.  Obviously not good.

So, I'm frustrated because it's a great problem and I want to do it but also because this is a fairly new experience for me.  I don't expect to be as bold as I used to (probably a good thing. It's probably fair to say I used to be quite bold) but this is starting to feel like something else,  a real block.

I don't know if I'm really expecting some useful tips,  though that would be great,  or just want to vent my frustration.  Maybe I just need someone to tell me to MTFU.

ps. I know it's not the done but I hope people will give me a chance to finish it.

[Jim]

sounds like you need a few more pads and spotters.
I'd be happy to help with either next week when I'mm work if it's dry and it's fairly local

[tomtom]

More pads and Dawes goading you worked last time


Sorry it didn't go today (it is too warm I bet) I'm about all day tomorrow and maybe mon eve depending on rain etc.. I'll wear my Johnny face mask and be rude to you if that helps

[andy popp]

Thanks Jim and Tom. It's true the time I went for it I had three pads and a spot but independent of that I feel like I've got into a bit of a negative mindset and am wondering how to break it.

Have a lot of flexibility the first half of next week so I'll keep an eye on the forecast.

[dave]

Man up a bit? Eye of the tiger and all that shit.

[Johnny Brown]

You are clearly getting too old Andy, I'll be over as soon as I can to steal it.

[Fiend]

Stack all the odds in your favour. Brush and chalk the fuck out of it. Patio the landing. Go on the best conditions. If the conditions aren't the best, refine your sequences as best you can even if you won't do it that day. Make the moves look and feel fucking cool. Enjoy the process. Take a flask of herbal tea with whisky in. HTH.

[a dense loner]

Leave it to someone more talented, you're clearly past your best and probably going to overgrade it anyway

[andy popp]

Leave it to someone more talented, you're clearly past your best and probably going to overgrade it anyway

Too bloody true.

[Luke Owens]

Depends how much you want it!

I recently did Northumberland Wonderland at Nesscliffe, Not as high as your project by quite some margin but it felt high and I only have one very crap pad. Due to family commitments lately I could only get there late for an hour or so, so getting people to come with pads and spot wasn't an option.

Sure, I could of just waited for a time where I could get others out but that wouldn't of been any time soon. I knew how much I wanted to climb it so that out weighed the negative thoughts of falling and hurting myself.

In the end I was fully committed and did fall off the top...I missed my pad, it hurt, but I was OK. I did it next go and the feeling of doing it was incredible so it was well worth getting scared for!

It's got me falling off the top on this video:

[r-man]

It's true the time I went for it I had three pads and a spot.

Get more pads involved. It makes a real difference having a proper bouncy castle of pads.

I had to do a little power yelp on the easy last move of a 5/6m highball yesterday, above four pads and a flat landing. I would have wanted more pads if it was the crux!

[andy popp]

I was thinking along similar lines Luke and think you're right. Thanks. Btw, good effort Northumberland. Its definitely pretty intimidating.

Really, I feel I deserve puntering for the OP, it was a bit lame. I think I was just really pissed off with myself. Hopefully it will just be a matter of more pads. On which thanks for all the offers of pads and spots. I'll  be watching the weather and will take the offers up if I get a chance.

[Bonjoy]

I find making noises help push me through mental reluctance

[petejh]

Really, I feel I deserve puntering for the OP, it was a bit lame. I think I was just really pissed off with myself. Hopefully it will just be a matter of more pads. On which thanks for all the offers of pads and spots. I'll  be watching the weather and will take the offers up if I get a chance.

Nah it's not lame it just shows you give a shit, so you'll probably do it. Perhaps a bit of psych music on way to crag?

I'm at Runcorn weekdays if it's local to there, I'd gladly come along with some pads at short notice to give a spot. Pm me if you need a hand.

[Jaspersharpe]

Push on Andy. Sure you'll get it.

I'd shit it on anything over 15' since fucking myself up so don't get down on yourself.

Go on the old skool!

[Bonjoy]

30 foot is over 9 meters, not surprised you're getting gripped at the top. That's the upper end of highball even by Varian standards. I trust you've worked it on a rope. Work it some more.

[tomtom]

30 foot is over 9 meters, not surprised you're getting gripped at the top. That's the upper end of highball even by Varian standards. I trust you've worked it on a rope. Work it some more.

Not sure its that high - but on the top moves (not easy) your feet are at least 4m off the deck.. possibly a bit more.

[andy popp]

30 foot is over 9 meters, not surprised you're getting gripped at the top. That's the upper end of highball even by Varian standards. I trust you've worked it on a rope. Work it some more.

Not sure its that high - but on the top moves (not easy) your feet are at least 4m off the deck.. possibly a bit more.

It almost certainly is an overestimate (as is also the grade very probably) but out of interest I marked where I come up to on the wall the other day and it was surprisingly bloody low.

But, yes, undoubtedly guilty of bigging the whole thing up, even if not on purpose.

[Johnny Brown]

Did you get some Arrowheads that fit in the end?

[andy popp]

Update. Ally (Smith) was kind enough to come out with extra pads on a glorious Wednesday evening. Anyway, I didn't do it - but I did fully go for it, taking another two fairly big falls (I'm still pretty sore, this highballing isn't for old men). So I I felt good about that at least - the trying, not the falling. Ally didn't think my estimate was so far out, certainly a good 25'.

Anyway, I now have to go away for a week, and I know no-one is very likely to try it, but I'd really like another chance to try it when I get back.

[Pantontino]

I find making noises help push me through mental reluctance

Your power yelps are ace!

I find myself squeeling "spot!" at moments of high stress - seems to help, although doesn't work if there's nobody else there. At times like that I just breathe fast, make random noises and hope for the best.

Dropping off in control from a high position helps to calm the nerves too - next time up at least part of you believes you'll be okay if you fluff the stopper move.