6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McCollNice to see Grand Illusion not being forgotten, should be good to see Ben and Jerry erm, "encouraging" the youth. Looks a bit like Sean McColl has drawn the short straw though with a trip to exotic Derbyshire.
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl
JH: It's a great pleasure to talk to somebody who actually knew Wolfgang, because I started climbing too late and for me he was just a legend, the route too, it was world famous as the first and the hardest 9a in the world, and that's probably the best known picture of Wolfang on ActionGH: Yes, I took that in 1992 and he couldn't actually climb it, [so JH the only person ever to do it twice?] we just took photos. But you know yourself, when your being photographed you're maybe not so motivatedJH: [laughs] I'm only on the route for the photographer0:45GH: Yes that's the first move, that one. How did you find it, that first move?JH: Well, it's by far the hardest single move. It feels just like Wolfgang looks in the picture: you're hanging on the finger pocket and you're surprised every time just how far away the relatively good hold is.1:16GH: You looked very very good on it. You held it well and hit the next pocket precisely. Then you swing out and you have to control all that momentumJH: It's a very athletic move and that suits everybody that trains a lot indoors ... the direction in which bouldering above all has developed in recent years ...GH: Jumps ... everything towards [inaudible]JH: Exactly. Everything's become a bit more dynamic: I think because of that people found the jump significantly harder in Wolfgang's day than today1:562:24GH: You can see on him [WG in the photo] these back muscles, very defined, and the big forearms - that was his distinctive physique, and he trained ...JH: He invested a lot in it, to be able to climb this route.GH: YepJH: ... and his other projectsGH: Yeah, he trained, but he also took long breaks. He always had to get motivated for a project, then he enjoyed it. When there wasn't a project, then ...JH: When you wonder what you're doing it all forGH: He would just read stuff for days on end. Or he didn't come out of his room. It was really like that. But that wasn't the milestone, Action Directe3:10 onwardsCameraman: [didn't catch much of what the cameraman was saying] ... look to the right ... super ... [something about the rope] ... super, great ...
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble
QuoteSean McColl is over next week to do Hubblesome egg on face potential there, hope conditions are good for him
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.