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Mammut Reclimbing the Classics (Read 84530 times)

Palomides

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Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 14, 2014, 10:35:56 pm
Quite original - sending youngsters off to climb old-school hard routes with the First Ascentionist (hopefully excluding Güllich)

http://mammut-rockclimbing.ch/en/

List from 8a.nu -
1. 1986 Hyaena 8b+, Gallo/Schubert
2. 1991 Action Directe 9a, Güllich/Hojer
3. 1986 La Rose et la Vampire 8b, Menestrel/Stöhr
4. 1983 The Face 8a+, Moffatt/Bacher
5. 1979 Grand Illusion 8a+, Yaniro/Caballero
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl

Nice to see Grand Illusion not being forgotten, should be good to see Ben and Jerry erm, "encouraging" the youth. Looks a bit like Sean McColl has drawn the short straw though with a trip to exotic Derbyshire.

Palomides

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#1 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 14, 2014, 10:41:46 pm

Muenchener

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#2 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 14, 2014, 10:56:10 pm
I enjoyed that.  Remember seeing pictures of that piece of honeycombed rock on magazine covers bitd and thinking it looked pretty amazing.

I initially thought Güllich wasn't the only dead person on the list, until I realised Bacher isn't a typo.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 09:05:08 am
I thought that too. Nice idea - shuld make them do it in the footwear of the day - i think that would be a bit harder in Kendos (I think he had them on?)

Greg C

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#4 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 12:39:00 pm
I enjoyed the first one a lot. I heard about this series a while back and thought it had the potential to be a victim of the kind of 'Euro Cheese' which usually comes out of the marketing stables of the big European brands, but it wasn't at all. Looking forward to the 'Grand Illusion' vid. The old 'Yaniro Power' poster always got me psyched as a youth.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/roy%203/yanirorri57nov93.jpg

Grubes

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#5 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 01:17:58 pm
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl

Nice to see Grand Illusion not being forgotten, should be good to see Ben and Jerry erm, "encouraging" the youth. Looks a bit like Sean McColl has drawn the short straw though with a trip to exotic Derbyshire.
Great news for shark though someone else for him to interview.

rich d

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#6 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 01:44:32 pm
and the second one of Action Directe.

Falling Down

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#7 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 04:39:04 pm
Blimey, he made that look easy...

gme

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#8 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 05:54:03 pm
Sean McColl is over here for his bit next week.

Is it dry?

shark

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#9 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 07:37:03 pm

6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl

Ben's keen to get him on Perky Pinky too

Muenchener

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#10 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 08:44:34 pm
I found the dialgoue on Jan Hojer on AD a bit muffled and Gerhard Heidorn's accent not entirely easy to understand. So then I thought, if I was going have to put headphones on and listen carefully anyway, then I might as well write it down ...

Quote
JH: It's a great pleasure to talk to somebody who actually knew Wolfgang, because I started climbing too late and for me he was just a legend, the route too, it was world famous as the first and the hardest 9a in the world, and that's probably the best known picture of Wolfang on Action
GH: Yes, I took that in 1992 and he couldn't actually climb it, [so JH the only person ever to do it twice?] we just took photos. But you know yourself, when your being photographed you're maybe not so motivated
JH: [laughs] I'm only on the route for the photographer
0:45
GH: Yes that's the first move, that one. How did you find it, that first move?
JH: Well, it's by far the hardest single move. It feels just like Wolfgang looks in the picture: you're hanging on the finger pocket and you're surprised every time just how far away the relatively good hold is.

1:16
GH: You looked very very good on it. You held it well and hit the next pocket precisely. Then you swing out and you have to control all that momentum
JH: It's a very athletic move and that suits everybody that trains a lot indoors ... the direction in which bouldering above all has developed in recent years ...
GH: Jumps ... everything towards [inaudible]
JH: Exactly. Everything's become a bit more dynamic: I think because of that people found the jump significantly harder in Wolfgang's day than today
1:56

2:24
GH: You can see on him [WG in the photo] these back muscles, very defined, and the big forearms - that was his distinctive physique, and he trained ...
JH: He invested a lot in it, to be able to climb this route.
GH: Yep
JH: ... and his other projects
GH: Yeah, he trained, but he also took long breaks. He always had to get motivated for a project, then he enjoyed it. When there wasn't a project, then ...
JH: When you wonder what you're doing it all for
GH: He would just read stuff for days on end. Or he didn't come out of his room. It was really like that. But that wasn't the milestone, Action Directe

3:10 onwards
Cameraman: [didn't catch much of what the cameraman was saying] ... look to the right ... super ... [something about the rope] ... super, great ...
« Last Edit: May 15, 2014, 09:06:00 pm by Muenchener »

Jaspersharpe

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#11 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 09:00:40 pm
Thanks for the translation, despite not being able to hear it properly. Good stuff.

tomtom

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#12 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 15, 2014, 09:47:15 pm
THanks for the translation too. A great film. Made me realise how short and intensely powerful the route is. From other films its always split up into too many parts and made too slow.. Love the way you see JH's whole body relax when he gets that final sidepull (jug)...

shark

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#13 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 02:04:26 pm
Mammut is getting members of their team to repeat 6 historical milestone routes in the history of sports climbing for a video series namely: 

1. 1986 Hyaena 8b+, Gallo/Jakob Schubert
2. 1991 Action Directe 9a, Güllich/Jan Hojer
3. 1986 La Rose et la Vampire 8b, Menestrel/Anna Stöhr
4. 1983 The Face 8a+, Moffatt/Barbara Bacher 
5. 1979 Grand Illusion 8a+, Yaniro/Mirko Caballero
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/Sean McColl

Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble (and maybe Perky Pinky the unrepeated?  :worms: Schoolroom problem put up by Malc Smith )

Here's the first video:




Boredboy

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#14 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 05:29:50 pm
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?

ferret

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#15 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 07:22:49 pm
Quote
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble

some egg on face potential there, hope conditions are good for him

Doylo

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#16 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 07:46:45 pm
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.

Muenchener

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#17 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 08:19:42 pm
Quote
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble

some egg on face potential there, hope conditions are good for him

I was thinking that too, surely this is rather far from being a foregone conclusion. Chance to burn off Adam Ondra and Alex Megos though.

shark

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#18 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 09:07:51 pm
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?

Doyle's video of Simpson do you mean (below) ? - it's not seamless.

Did anyone see him do it in a oner?


petejh

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#19 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 09:42:33 pm
 ::) Did anyone ever see him do anything in a oner!?

Is anyone else as eagerly anticipating some wad sending/getting shutdown on Hubble as I am? Don't usually get a build up.....

Jaspersharpe

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#20 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 09:59:21 pm
 :popcorn: I hope he does it. Would be pretty impressive to get it on a flying visit.  :popcorn:

Jaspersharpe

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#21 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 10:09:45 pm
Watching that film of Doylo's is so depressing now. What a waste.

ianto9

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#22 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 10:23:44 pm
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.
they should change it to liquid amber

Luke Owens

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#23 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 18, 2014, 11:52:18 pm
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.

+1

Here's Jan on Action Direct:


Muenchener

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#24 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
May 19, 2014, 07:01:45 am
Duplicate of this thread?

 

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