[shark]

 Well done Shauna !

[Duma]

 

front page shirley?

[Fiend]

 

[fried]

Fantastic result and a brilliant nail-biter of a final. Just how good sports events should be.

[nik at work]

  etc
Tree Mend Ous

[shark]

front page shirley?

Good point

[flyguy]

Nice work, very professional. 

[Duma]

replay of finals:

[Ti_pin_man]

sat and watched the replay last night and it was awesome, girl did good!  Not before time, long over due and now shes done it I think, and hope, she'll carry on doing it this year!

Loved watching the japanese guys trying to get two fingers on the last hold, been in that position at my local wall.  haha.  very good, great viewing and good tellybox.

[SA Chris]

Sports result of the weekend!

Good work!

[Jaspersharpe]

Brilliant.

[LB1782]

Brilliant.
Well done Shauna!

[namnok]

11.45am still no visible mention on the other channel. Unless I've missed an obscured-by-other-drivvle postings-post by someone who cares.

Ps just noticed a tweet if you scroll down

[davej]

watched it live awesome the first of many golds 

[battery]

Sat and watched both the semis and the final live and really loved it, so chuffed for Shauna.

There were 2 threads on the other channel about it yesterday and it is now on the front page. Still, I'm sure there are more followers of it on here.

[Eth]

Good work Shauna! 
We watched the last problem live, had to cover my eyes as she kept going for the head jam start 

[mindfull]

Respect!!!

[Duma]

Some reports from the usual suspects...
BMC:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/coxsey-grabs-gold-in-grindelwald
Planet Mountain:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41789
CLimbing.de:
http://news.climbing.de/ifsc-climbing-world-cup-grindelwald-2014-jan-hojer-grabs-his-2nd-gold/
Climbing Narc:
http://climbingnarc.com/2014/05/coxsey-hojer-win-2014-bouldering-world-cup-in-grindelwald/
The Circuits pics on FB (public so should be able to view?):
https://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.327539157397529.1073741847.215974475220665&type=1
https://www.facebook.com/#!/TheCircuitClimbingMagazine/posts/327383790746399

[Jaspersharpe]

Rob Adie, BMC competitions offer said: “It’s fantastic news. Shauna has been on the brink of winning a round for some time, and now that she’s won one, I feel she could dominate the circuit this year and take the overall title. Who knows, maybe she can do the double and be overall World Cup Champion and World Champion in the same year!

No pressure then! This lad's obviously never heard the football cliches, "one step at a time", "not thinking about anything but the next round" and "don't fucking jinx it you prick!!!".
 

[Muenchener]

Allez Shauna

 
 

[shark]

Gold again !

[kelvin]

Gold again !

Dude - you really need to batter out The Oak whilst this winning vibe is about 

[Jaspersharpe]

Blimey.

[Oldmanmatt]

It's slightly odd, that my (all male, age 18-25) staff are absolutely obsessed with her! To the point that they are all on the look out for the "next Shauna" and seem to concentrate on coaching the girls, more than the boys.

I'm not so interested in the comp scene. I enjoy watching, if I have time, but don't go out of my way to. But I realised, the only aspect of that scene that I even partially follow, is the Women's Bouldering!
I couldn't even think who our top Males might be!
I had to scroll (quite away down) through the results to jog my memory of Barrens name.

Can we start a news thread, naming the teams, each season?

The forum has started to become more news/interview oriented and Simon is becoming more journalistic. I'd like to see a (slightly) more magazine section within the structure, that might allow reporting or even the submission of articles?

Mainly because I've stopped using the other channel completely, but the time-line forum structure (great in so many ways), makes it easy to miss "news" posts.

[psychomansam]

It's slightly odd, that my (all male, age 18-25) staff are absolutely obsessed with her!

Extremely likeable and attractive northern lass winning gold medals for team GB in the bouldering world cup. And you find it odd that male climbing wall staff around her age are obsessed? I'll take that as sarcasm.

Would be good to see some report/article style write-ups on here I reckon. We have the blog pile, but I can't be bothered. Perhaps every now and then an exceptionally good blog post could be ported over onto the home page (with permission perhaps). That might take the pressure off a bit, rather than articles/reports always having to be dedicated.

p.s. Send your staff here http://news.adidas.com/gb/Latest-News/adidas-gets-behind-the-scenes-with-adventure-sports-biggest-stars/s/4b519429-cc8e-4de8-b355-c6e722e550ab

[Muenchener]

It's slightly odd, that my (all male, age 18-25) staff are absolutely obsessed with her!

No it isn't.

I personally find Jule and Melissa (even) more attractive, but come on: good looking, extremely fit young woman who they know has a common interest. What's not to have a crush on?

I enjoy watching (and taking part in) competition bouldering. Couldn't care less about lead competitions.

[mr__j5]

Can we start a news thread, naming the teams, each season?

This is where it is usually listed: http://www.gbclimbingteam.co.uk/senior-bouldering

Although this site doesn't really get the focus that it should.

[r-man]

It's a boring website.

[tomtom]

Gold again !

Dude - you really need to batter out The Oak whilst this winning vibe is about 

:/

[kelvin]

To be fair, I was pretty blotto when I wrote that and I thought I was tuning in to some winning karmic vibe. Today I just feel sick. Ameretto sambucca is pretty horrific.

Top performance however, stuck to her guns on that last problem. Great stuff.

[Wood FT]

To be fair, I was pretty blotto when I wrote that and I thought I was tuning in to some winning karmic vibe. Today I just feel sick. Ameretto sambucca is pretty horrific.

I've had that stuff before, shatner's bassoon territory, you're better off on crack

nice one Shauna

[ducko]

really cool, good to watch!
they'll have to put her against the blokes if she gets any better

[psychomansam]

 :agre

really cool, good to watch!
they'll have to put her against the blokes if she gets any better

Iirc, there was prob in Baku women's finals which she flashed, and which had been used in the men's semis, with lots of men struggling

[Doylo]

I couldn't care less about comps normally but there's something pretty inspiring about a young girl from Runcorn beating the rest of the world.

:agre

really cool, good to watch!
they'll have to put her against the blokes if she gets any better

Iirc, there was prob in Baku women's finals which she flashed, and which had been used in the men's semis, with lots of men struggling

She's a mutant

[Footwork]

I couldn't care less about comps normally but there's something pretty inspiring about a young girl from Runcorn beating the rest of the world.

Agreed! It's like the Brownlee's coming from Horsforth

[GraemeA]

Iirc, there was prob in Baku women's finals which she flashed, and which had been used in the men's semis, with lots of men struggling

Chongqing quals, P5 was identical for men and women. Only Shauna and Akiyo did it although quite a few got close and a decent number got the bonus  Results here http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1518&cat=5&route=0

[psychomansam]

Iirc, there was prob in Baku women's finals which she flashed, and which had been used in the men's semis, with lots of men struggling

Chongqing quals, P5 was identical for men and women. Only Shauna and Akiyo did it although quite a few got close and a decent number got the bonus  Results here http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1518&cat=5&route=0

As my memory goes, that's actually pretty close to the truth! 

[GraemeA]

Close to the truth. Cheeky cunt, it is the truth   

[Jaspersharpe]

So you say you wine addled cunt. We're supposed to take your memory as gospel? I think not. ;-)

You owe me six pints for Sunderland staying up by the way. #Gus

[GraemeA]

So you say you wine addled cunt. We're supposed to take your memory as gospel? I think not. ;-)

You owe me six pints for Sunderland staying up by the way. #Gus

You might have a point there Jasper 

[shark]

Write up from the BMC:



Double gold for climbing star Coxsey

Top British climber Shauna Coxsey has just won her second gold of the season in the IFSC Boulder World Cup 2014, making this year’s competition definitely one to watch.
Fresh from winning her first ever IFSC gold in Grindelwald (10-11 May), Coxsey struck gold again in Innsbruck on Saturday (17 May). Coxsey, 21, from Runcorn, is now ranked first midway through the eight round series, after winning two out of four rounds so far.  Shauna is well on her way to a personal best and female British record, having come 4th overall in 2013 and 3rd in 2012.
Rob Adie, competitions officer for the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) said: “Shauna has been on the brink of winning a round for some time. Her medal haul of two golds, a silver and a bronze puts her in a fantastic position for claiming the overall title. She now has a good break so she can rest and hopefully stand on top of the podium again in Toronto in a couple of weeks.”

“This is a great result for the GB Climbing Team as whole, especially with the funding challenges they had at the beginning of the season. Hopefully this will boost the whole team to achieve great things – and perhaps even attract new sponsors.”
Coxsey said: “Innsbruck is always a stand-out event in the season. Last year I didn’t climb very well at this competition, and I remember how it felt watching the finals from the crowd. I didn’t want to be watching again this year. I was so excited about making it to finals. The crowd in Innsbruck is immense, the wall is amazing and the setting is always really fun.
The atmosphere really is incomparable to any of the other events. Standing on top of the podium was indescribable; I still can’t believe that I won! Again (ahh)!  I’m pretty overwhelmed. Next week I will be heading to North America to compete in Canada and Colorado before heading back to China for the penultimate round and then to France for the last one. I am so excited for the next competitions.”
The IFSC World Cup event in Innsbruck (16-17 May) attracted thousands of people to watch the action at the Marktplatz in the city centre. Innsbruck is home to two of the world’s best boulderers: Killian Fischhuber and reigning women’s champion Anna Stöhr, and the phenomenal atmosphere of the event reflected the support they have from their community.
In the men’s, Austrian Kilian Fischhuber took gold on his home turf, but in the women’s Shauna Coxsey beat off the fierce competition from Anna Stöhr. Things came down to the wire once again for Anna Stöhr and Shauna Coxsey, but Anna failed to reach the top of the fourth boulder, leaving Shauna to take gold with three tops to Anna’s two.
The next IFSC World Cup will be in Toronto, Canada on 31 May - 1 June. The series then heads to Vail in Colorado, USA, and to Haiyang, China, before culminating in Laval, France on 27-28 June. 
Shauna Coxsey will also be competing in the IFSC World Championships, a standalone event held in Munich, 21-23 August.
Finals results:
1st – Shauna Coxsey and Killian Fischhuber
2nd – Anna Stöhr and Adam Ondra
3rd – Akiyo Noguchi and Rustam Gelmanov

GB results:
1st – Shauna Coxsey
16th – Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
37th  - Micheala Tracy
67th – Diane Merrick
41st – Dave Barrans
45th – Orrin Coley
65th – Jon Partridge

[abarro81]

Question for those in the know: Do all rounds count in the final standings, or is it one of those things where the worst performances get dropped to allow people to miss rounds (e.g. 6 or 7 scores count out of 8 rounds)?

[psychomansam]

And also, how do points get allocated, i.e. how many for first, second, nineteenth?

[abarro81]

Just found the answer here for anyone interested:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=ranking&cat=ICC_FB&cup=14_WC&detail=1

7 out of 8 count
1st = 100
2nd = 80
3rd = 65
then 55, 51, 47... down to 30th place which gets you 1 point.

[EdGowSmith]

Some media coverage of Shauna's win and British comp climbing.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-27647454